Vinyl is a widely popular material for flooring due to its durability, easy maintenance, and ease of installation. You’ll find this flooring in a range of different formats including luxury vinyl planks, loose lay tiles or planks, and much more. The popularity of loose lay flooring has greatly increased in recent years thanks to its versatility and flexibility. Read on to learn more about this flooring, mistakes to avoid, and how you can install it in any environment for a beautiful outcome.

What Is Loose Lay Vinyl Flooring?

Loose lay or loose laid flooring earned its name due to the fact that it doesn’t require fasteners or special mechanisms like tongue-and-groove to install it and keep it in place. The material is constructed of a thick vinyl material that lays directly onto the floor and stays put once it’s completely installed. The flooring relies on friction to keep it in place, and a rubber backing lies directly on top of a smooth, flat surface to give it traction. A benefit of this flooring style is that it can be added directly over existing flooring, and the installation method is easy enough for DIY projects.

How To Install Loose Lay Flooring

This flooring comes in several formats including sheets, planks, and tiles. To begin the installation, make sure that the room is at a steady temperature of 65 degrees or higher for at least 48 hours. Remove all furniture from the room and remove the toilet if you’re planning to install this flooring in a bathroom. Next, you’ll need to carefully remove all floor molding so the loose lay tiles can be installed directly against the wall. If the floors are carpeted, you’ll need to remove it along with any padding, then sweep the floor clean to remove all adhesives and debris. You can fill any gaps or low spots using wood filler or a self-leveling compound on concrete floors.

Many loose laid flooring manufacturers include a heavy fiberglass backing that doesn’t require the use of glue or other adhesives. Others may require you to apply a special type of adhesive to the back of the tile or directly onto the floor before installation. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to confirm. Lay the tile out and mix it up to ensure that it looks good in terms of coloring and markings. Start by placing the tiles on the floor at one side of the room against the wall and work your way out until you’ve reached the opposite side. Gently press down on each tile to ensure that it’s securely in place before adding another one. If you end up with excess material, simply use a razor knife to cut away the excess. Check to make sure the floor is level, then reinstall the floor molding and the installation is complete.

Top Mistakes To Avoid When Installing Loose Lay Flooring

While loose lay flooring is quite easy to install, there are a few common mistakes you should avoid in order to ensure a successful installation:

•   An uneven subfloor will cause the loose lay tiles to shift. Always make sure that the flooring is flat and perfectly level before you begin installing the tile.

•   If your loose lay tiles require adhesive, make sure that you apply it to the entire backside of the tile. An adhesive that’s only applied to the center will cause the edges of each individual tile to come loose and curl over time.

•   When using a substrate, make sure that it’s fully adhered to the floor first, or else the loose lay vinyl will not remain in place.

•   Never attempt to install this flooring over the carpet or cushioned sheet vinyl, as it will result in too much movement, causing the new flooring to become loose and uneven.

•   Make sure that the adhesive you use is waterproof, especially when installing this flooring in a kitchen or bathroom.

•   Failing to plan the layout in advance and failing to use a level as you go will result in more unnecessary adjustments, too many cuts, and wasted materials. Always plan the layout in advance, do all of the necessary measurements, and check to ensure that each tile is level as you install the flooring so that it’s perfectly in place.

Can you lay loose lay vinyl tiles over tiles?

If you’re wondering whether you can install loose lay vinyl tiles over existing tile, the answer is yes. Make sure that the new flooring won’t be too high for the room, or else it could prevent doors from opening and closing properly. This applies to cabinet doors, baseboards, and floor registers, too. Even if the new loose lay floor doesn’t require an adhesive, it’s best to clean the existing tile thoroughly before installation. Never install loose lay vinyl tiles over a tile that is cracked, loose, or missing. Grout lines should be ¼ inch or less, or else the new tile will eventually press into the grout lines, causing visible marks and lines in the flooring.

Loose Lay Tile Flooring from BuildDirect

As you can see, this type of flooring is durable and easy to install. At BuildDirect, you’ll find a variety of loose lay vinyl options for many different applications. These products are suitable for both residential and commercial applications, making them a wise choice for your next flooring project. Visit our website today to find out more or to request more information.

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Grout is a common material used with tile, and it keeps the spaces between each tile looking uniform. This material can become damaged over time, and it will likely require a bit of repair to restore it to its original state. If you’re dealing with damaged grout, there are some easy ways to fix it yourself. With just a few simple tools and some quick training, you can easily repair damaged grout and make your floors, backsplash, and feature walls look fantastic again.

Types of Grout

Grout comes in two major formats: sanded and unsanded. The type grout you use will be based on the width of your tile joints and where you plan to make your repairs. Before you begin, measure the space between the tiles. If it’s larger than 1/8 of an inch, you should use sanded grout. If it’s smaller than 1/8 of an inch, use unsanded grout. You should never use sanded grout with glass, metal, or marble tiles since it can scratch the surface and cause damage. Acrylic latex grout is a good alternative, but it will require sealing. Epoxy grout works great to resist stains, but it may be a bit difficult to apply.

Repairing Cracks with Caulk

Cracking is the most common cause of damaged grout. As you walk on tile floors, the grout becomes weaker and can eventually start to show unsightly cracks. You can remedy this by using caulk to fill in the cracks and restore the look of the grout. First, remove all loose and cracked grout with a grout saw or Dremel tool. Apply the caulk gently to the cracks, smoothing it down with a plastic spoon. You can also wet your fingers and smooth the caulk by hand.

Make sure you allow the caulk to fully cure for at least 48 hours before you walk on the floors. Avoid putting heavy furniture back until it’s fully cured as well. There are several types of caulk available and some are made in a variety of colors. Look for a caulk that matches the existing grout color as closely as possible.

Repairing Cracks with Grout

If you want to fill in the damaged grout with a new layer of grout, it will create a nice, uniform look. Since grout is porous, it crumbles over time with normal wear. Using grout to fill in cracks will restore it beautifully, and you can make spot repairs as needed. In order to repair damaged grout that’s cracking using new grout, follow these steps:

• Use a bamboo skewer and drag it along the grout line. This will loosen any cracked and damaged grout. Use a vacuum with a hose attachment to clean out any excess loosened grout.
• Mix the new grout with water in a small container. A cup or bowl should work fine. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before mixing.
• Evenly spread the new grout over the damaged grout lines. Use a grout float to ensure even application. Drag the float across the grout lines using slow movement in several directions. This will pack the new grout into the cracks and keep air bubbles out.
• Scrape any excess grout from the tiles using the edge of the grout float.
• Give the new grout about five minutes to sit. Once it’s semi-dry, wipe your tiles using a sponge dampened with tap water. When a hazy layer appears on the tiles, you can buff them clean using a dry rag or microfiber cloth.

Remove Damaged Grout with a Grout Saw and Reapply

If you prefer to completely remove the old, damaged grout and reapply it, this process yields great results. You will need to use a special grout saw to effectively remove the damaged grout and prevent your tiles from becoming damaged. As you use the saw, be sure to do so with careful, gentle motions. Aim the saw directly into the grout lines and avoid using it on the tile itself whenever possible. While you remove the old grout, use even, steady motions and push the saw directly into the grout. Wear safety goggles for additional protection.

After the old grout is completely removed, use a special grout cleaner to clean up any excess, leftover debris. You can make a homemade grout cleaner using equal parts of vinegar and water. Never use abrasive cleaners as they can cause scratches on your tile. After cleaning the grout lines, rinse everything using clean water. You can absorb any excess water by using a rag or some paper towels. Don’t completely dry it since the grout needs a small amount of moisture to adhere and cure.

Once you’re ready to reapply the new grout, you can follow the steps above. It’s important to note that you’ll need more grout than you would if you were to simply repair existing cracks. When you use the sponge, wring it out frequently so you’re not introducing too much water to the grout. After application, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommended drying time so the grout can completely cure.

To maintain the beauty of your grout, you should apply a grout sealant. After the grout has completely cured, you can apply the sealant and allow it to dry. The sealant will keep the grout safe from further damage, and it also protects it from absorbing stains and dirt. There may be a haze on your tiles after applying sealant. Simply buff them out using a soft cloth until the haze is fully gone. Re-seal your grout at least once every six months for best results.

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The living room and the kitchen are two of the most-used rooms in the home but their needs are very different, which often results in two different flooring types in these spaces. Keep the look between the two rooms smooth and safe by ensuring that there are proper floor transitions between rooms. The types of transition you need depends greatly on what type of flooring is installed in each of the spaces.

Why Do You Need A Room Transition Strip?

Different types of flooring feature different installation types. Putting one edge straight against another edge would result in uneven and raw areas that would not hold up to wear and tear and which could even make it easy to trip. Placing a proper room transition strip from one room to another helps protect both types of flooring and provide a clean, finished look. Visually, the transition strip acts as a reminder to anyone walking through the home that there may be a slight height difference between two types of flooring.

Not only are room transition strips a visually pleasing way to complete flooring installation; they are also a way to allow for the proper expansion and contraction of the flooring itself. In the warm weather of the summer and spring floorings such as hardwood and vinyl tends to expand a bit. In cold weather, the flooring contracts. The space under the transition strips allows for the expansion and contraction without creating a gap between the two floorings.

Multi-Floor Transition

When you have multiple flooring types in one house, keep all the room transitions consistent by opting for a four-in-one transition strip. This four-piece design makes it easy to bridge the gap between many different flooring types, depending upon what pieces you use. This makes it a versatile solution if you have carpet in a living room, tile in an entry, and laminate in a sunroom.

Between Hard Floors

When you have two hard floors that but up against one another, a T-shaped transition strip is the ideal solution. The top of the transition strip bridges the gap between the two hard floors, which are able to come right up to the bar that extends from the center of the transition strip.

How to Transition Between Two Different Wood Floors

When two different wood floors come together, a simple strip, called a seam binder, makes the ideal transition. This piece of wood is the same height as most wood planks and screws into place, providing a finished look at the junction where two wood floors meet. This seam binder simply screws into place, making it fast and easy to install. Purchase them finished to coordinate with the wood flooring you chose or unfinished and stain or paint them the color of your choice.

Carpet to Ceramic Tile

When connecting carpet to ceramic tile, there is a two-piece transition that is needed. The first piece is a metal strip with tacks along the edge that secure the end of the carpet in place so it can be stretched properly. Next, a vinyl transition strip clicks into the holder attached to the metal strip, smoothing out the transition between the two types of flooring and giving it a finished look.

Flooring Transitions From Wood to Tile

Generally, tile is a much thicker product than a plank of wood or laminate. The result can be uneven. Get a smooth transition from. Bathroom or kitchen tile to the surrounding wood by using a transition strip designed specifically to bridge these two flooring materials.  To account for the tile to hardwood transition height difference, one side of the strip is slightly more accommodating on the underside, allowing for the height difference.

Vinyl to Tile Transitions

Tile is a thick material with mortar or thin-set underneath. Vinyl, on the other hand, is very thin. This difference in material heights makes it necessary to get a tile to vinyl transition strip that features a gentle curve, smoothing the transition between the two heights and making the slight difference visually noticeable.

Carpet to Edge

Transitions don’t just happen from one type of flooring to the other. They also take place between carpet and the surrounding walls. Begin any carpet installation by screwing a metal carpet edge gripper into place. A series of spikes along the strip make it easy to stretch the carpet correctly and keep it secured, right up to the edge of the room. Once installed, a metal lip curves over the edge of the carpet to prevent the carpet from fraying.

Having one consistent flooring that runs through the entire house can make a space feel large but it often is not realistic. Hardwood floors look chic in a living room but they aren’t practical for kitchens and bathrooms where water damage can occur.  In wet spaces, ceramic tile or luxury vinyl flooring makes a more durable choice. Whether you are laying floors in a brand new home or simply updating a single room of the space, transition strips are a necessary part of the installation process. Transition strips are designed to minimize visual disruption while providing a smooth and protective gap between two flooring types.

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The purpose of molding is to cover edges, camouflage expansion spaces, and bridge surfaces where wood ends and other types of flooring begin, like tile or carpet. Engineered flooring often comes with matching trim, but for solid wood flooring, you’ll need to shop for these pieces. The last finishing step after the floor is completely installed is the trim. In order to avoid frustrating last-minute issues, plan for trim and molding in advance as part of the overall installation.

What Type of Trim Do I Need?

To determine what kind of trim you’ll need, consider the edges of the room and anything that meets the floor, for example installed cabinets, fireplaces, stairways, doorways, and transitions between floorings. Here is how different types of trim are used:

• Wood to tile or wood to wood: Usually, this calls for a T-molding, so named because it has a rounded top T shape. The top of the molding is slightly rounded and the stem on the bottom fits between the ends of two types of flooring roughly equal in height.
• Uneven levels: A reducer eliminates a raised edge if one floor surface is noticeably higher of lower than the other. Reducers can be one-sided, flush, bi-level or overlapping. Each type of reducer trim does the same thing, eases the transition between floors of different levels.
• Threshold: Threshold trim bridges the gap between the floor and a sliding glass door. This leaves an expansion gap in place, and can also connect wood floors to carpet. End cap or square nose molding may also be used for this purpose.
• Stairs: If your floor will end under the floating edge of stairs and require expansion room, you’ll need overlap stair nosing or bull nose trim. For stairs that end flush, use flush or square edge stair nosing.
• Baseboards: around the walls, trim will be necessary to cover the gaps left by expansion space. You can use decorative or plain baseboards, with quarter round or shoe edge molding at the bottom to conceal additional gaps.

Ways to Install Molding and Trim

• Baseboards and other trim may be attached to the wall every 16 inches on the studs using staples or finishing nails.
• Transitional T-moldings are usually glued in place to the subfloor. Reducer trims have a tongue and groove edge that attach to the last floorboard and overlap the edge of the next surface.Baseboards and other trim may be attached to the wall every 16 inches on the studs using staples or finishing nails.
• Overlap reducers and threshold transitional trims are commonly used with floating floors and with transitions to carpet. They overlap both edges and may be nailed or glued down.

General Tips for Installation

• Unless you plan to paint trim to match the walls, select trim that is as close in grain pattern and color to your flooring as possible, and select wood strips that match the trim with little variation to go around the perimeter of the walls.
• Like the flooring planks, moldings should be acclimated for 72 hours.
• Pre-drilling is highly recommended to avoid splitting and splintering when fastening with nails or staples.
• Start with the longest unbroken wall, usually the outside wall.
• When installing shoe edge or quarter round moldings, do not drive in nails or staples at a downward angle. It may interfere with the floor expansion area.
• Splice trim using miter cuts. For an unbroken look, the direction of the miter should be oriented with the long point away from the room’s main entryway, the same direction of your vision as you enter the room.

Special Circumstances

Doorways

It’s tempting to continue flooring through a doorway, but using a transition (T-molding) is usually a better option. Creating an exact fit is difficult, and using a molding allows a little extra expansion easement. If the flooring is floated, you must use a transition molding if the doorways is less than 6 feet wide.

Pipes, Vents, Cabinets and Other Fixed Objects

A general rule of thumb is to leave a 3/8” expansion gap around any fixed object and use moldings, pipe rings, or vent covers to conceal the gaps.

Raised Hearths

Transitions around fireplaces are often awkward. The most natural looking way to handle a raised hearth is to trim out an area around the hearth itself using an undercut saw with a diamond-tipped blade. Two cuts are required and this needs to be prepared before installing the floor. The first cut goes at the vertical height level of the floor and the second flush with the subfloor. Chisel the area between the two cuts for the flooring to slide between.

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