Vinyl is a widely popular material for flooring due to its durability, easy maintenance, and ease of installation. You’ll find this flooring in a range of different formats including luxury vinyl planks, loose lay tiles or planks, and much more. The popularity of loose lay flooring has greatly increased in recent years thanks to its versatility and flexibility. Read on to learn more about this flooring, mistakes to avoid, and how you can install it in any environment for a beautiful outcome.

What Is Loose Lay Vinyl Flooring?

Loose lay or loose laid flooring earned its name due to the fact that it doesn’t require fasteners or special mechanisms like tongue-and-groove to install it and keep it in place. The material is constructed of a thick vinyl material that lays directly onto the floor and stays put once it’s completely installed. The flooring relies on friction to keep it in place, and a rubber backing lies directly on top of a smooth, flat surface to give it traction. A benefit of this flooring style is that it can be added directly over existing flooring, and the installation method is easy enough for DIY projects.

How To Install Loose Lay Flooring

This flooring comes in several formats including sheets, planks, and tiles. To begin the installation, make sure that the room is at a steady temperature of 65 degrees or higher for at least 48 hours. Remove all furniture from the room and remove the toilet if you’re planning to install this flooring in a bathroom. Next, you’ll need to carefully remove all floor molding so the loose lay tiles can be installed directly against the wall. If the floors are carpeted, you’ll need to remove it along with any padding, then sweep the floor clean to remove all adhesives and debris. You can fill any gaps or low spots using wood filler or a self-leveling compound on concrete floors.

Many loose laid flooring manufacturers include a heavy fiberglass backing that doesn’t require the use of glue or other adhesives. Others may require you to apply a special type of adhesive to the back of the tile or directly onto the floor before installation. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to confirm. Lay the tile out and mix it up to ensure that it looks good in terms of coloring and markings. Start by placing the tiles on the floor at one side of the room against the wall and work your way out until you’ve reached the opposite side. Gently press down on each tile to ensure that it’s securely in place before adding another one. If you end up with excess material, simply use a razor knife to cut away the excess. Check to make sure the floor is level, then reinstall the floor molding and the installation is complete.

Top Mistakes To Avoid When Installing Loose Lay Flooring

While loose lay flooring is quite easy to install, there are a few common mistakes you should avoid in order to ensure a successful installation:

•   An uneven subfloor will cause the loose lay tiles to shift. Always make sure that the flooring is flat and perfectly level before you begin installing the tile.

•   If your loose lay tiles require adhesive, make sure that you apply it to the entire backside of the tile. An adhesive that’s only applied to the center will cause the edges of each individual tile to come loose and curl over time.

•   When using a substrate, make sure that it’s fully adhered to the floor first, or else the loose lay vinyl will not remain in place.

•   Never attempt to install this flooring over the carpet or cushioned sheet vinyl, as it will result in too much movement, causing the new flooring to become loose and uneven.

•   Make sure that the adhesive you use is waterproof, especially when installing this flooring in a kitchen or bathroom.

•   Failing to plan the layout in advance and failing to use a level as you go will result in more unnecessary adjustments, too many cuts, and wasted materials. Always plan the layout in advance, do all of the necessary measurements, and check to ensure that each tile is level as you install the flooring so that it’s perfectly in place.

Can you lay loose lay vinyl tiles over tiles?

If you’re wondering whether you can install loose lay vinyl tiles over existing tile, the answer is yes. Make sure that the new flooring won’t be too high for the room, or else it could prevent doors from opening and closing properly. This applies to cabinet doors, baseboards, and floor registers, too. Even if the new loose lay floor doesn’t require an adhesive, it’s best to clean the existing tile thoroughly before installation. Never install loose lay vinyl tiles over a tile that is cracked, loose, or missing. Grout lines should be ¼ inch or less, or else the new tile will eventually press into the grout lines, causing visible marks and lines in the flooring.

Loose Lay Tile Flooring from BuildDirect

As you can see, this type of flooring is durable and easy to install. At BuildDirect, you’ll find a variety of loose lay vinyl options for many different applications. These products are suitable for both residential and commercial applications, making them a wise choice for your next flooring project. Visit our website today to find out more or to request more information.

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The living room and the kitchen are two of the most-used rooms in the home but their needs are very different, which often results in two different flooring types in these spaces. Keep the look between the two rooms smooth and safe by ensuring that there are proper floor transitions between rooms. The types of transition you need depends greatly on what type of flooring is installed in each of the spaces.

Why Do You Need A Room Transition Strip?

Different types of flooring feature different installation types. Putting one edge straight against another edge would result in uneven and raw areas that would not hold up to wear and tear and which could even make it easy to trip. Placing a proper room transition strip from one room to another helps protect both types of flooring and provide a clean, finished look. Visually, the transition strip acts as a reminder to anyone walking through the home that there may be a slight height difference between two types of flooring.

Not only are room transition strips a visually pleasing way to complete flooring installation; they are also a way to allow for the proper expansion and contraction of the flooring itself. In the warm weather of the summer and spring floorings such as hardwood and vinyl tends to expand a bit. In cold weather, the flooring contracts. The space under the transition strips allows for the expansion and contraction without creating a gap between the two floorings.

Multi-Floor Transition

When you have multiple flooring types in one house, keep all the room transitions consistent by opting for a four-in-one transition strip. This four-piece design makes it easy to bridge the gap between many different flooring types, depending upon what pieces you use. This makes it a versatile solution if you have carpet in a living room, tile in an entry, and laminate in a sunroom.

Between Hard Floors

When you have two hard floors that but up against one another, a T-shaped transition strip is the ideal solution. The top of the transition strip bridges the gap between the two hard floors, which are able to come right up to the bar that extends from the center of the transition strip.

How to Transition Between Two Different Wood Floors

When two different wood floors come together, a simple strip, called a seam binder, makes the ideal transition. This piece of wood is the same height as most wood planks and screws into place, providing a finished look at the junction where two wood floors meet. This seam binder simply screws into place, making it fast and easy to install. Purchase them finished to coordinate with the wood flooring you chose or unfinished and stain or paint them the color of your choice.

Carpet to Ceramic Tile

When connecting carpet to ceramic tile, there is a two-piece transition that is needed. The first piece is a metal strip with tacks along the edge that secure the end of the carpet in place so it can be stretched properly. Next, a vinyl transition strip clicks into the holder attached to the metal strip, smoothing out the transition between the two types of flooring and giving it a finished look.

Flooring Transitions From Wood to Tile

Generally, tile is a much thicker product than a plank of wood or laminate. The result can be uneven. Get a smooth transition from. Bathroom or kitchen tile to the surrounding wood by using a transition strip designed specifically to bridge these two flooring materials.  To account for the tile to hardwood transition height difference, one side of the strip is slightly more accommodating on the underside, allowing for the height difference.

Vinyl to Tile Transitions

Tile is a thick material with mortar or thin-set underneath. Vinyl, on the other hand, is very thin. This difference in material heights makes it necessary to get a tile to vinyl transition strip that features a gentle curve, smoothing the transition between the two heights and making the slight difference visually noticeable.

Carpet to Edge

Transitions don’t just happen from one type of flooring to the other. They also take place between carpet and the surrounding walls. Begin any carpet installation by screwing a metal carpet edge gripper into place. A series of spikes along the strip make it easy to stretch the carpet correctly and keep it secured, right up to the edge of the room. Once installed, a metal lip curves over the edge of the carpet to prevent the carpet from fraying.

Having one consistent flooring that runs through the entire house can make a space feel large but it often is not realistic. Hardwood floors look chic in a living room but they aren’t practical for kitchens and bathrooms where water damage can occur.  In wet spaces, ceramic tile or luxury vinyl flooring makes a more durable choice. Whether you are laying floors in a brand new home or simply updating a single room of the space, transition strips are a necessary part of the installation process. Transition strips are designed to minimize visual disruption while providing a smooth and protective gap between two flooring types.

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There are a lot of decisions to make when considering wood flooring, and often one of the most overlooked considerations is the trim. The purpose of molding and trim is to give the floor a professional, finished appearance, to join the floor to the walls and create seamless transitions to other rooms. Choosing the right trim and moldings is crucial to the aesthetic of the any room, whether you prefer an ornate trim or an unobtrusive low-profile molding.

Engineered wood flooring generally comes with matching trim. Traditional hardwood flooring comes with no trim. The trim you choose should closely match your flooring in grain and styling – rustic flooring should be paired with rustic trim. To create a classic Victorian look, consider wider baseboards with a carved design element. For a harmonious overall design, you may also want to consider the wood trim around doors and windows.

Different types of molding are used for each specific purpose. What you will need depends on the features of your home. Here are the basic choices and what you need to know about each:

Baseboards or Wall Base Trims

Wood floors expand and contract with the temperature and humidity of the air. As a result, space must be left around the edges of the room and things that are stationary, like kitchen cabinetry. Trim attached to the wall or the base of things built in, called baseboard or wall base, covers and hides the gap. This trim can range from an unadorned rounded-edge board to a wide, ornately carved décor statement.

Quarter round is often used in conjunction with baseboards to add dimension to the transition between the bottom of the baseboard and the floor. It can also be used instead of baseboard as a very low profile trim.

Shoe edge molding essentially has the same purpose as quarter round molding with a smaller profile.

Transition Trims

Transition trims are used to bridge the gap between different types of flooring or to cover the threshold between rooms. Here are the different types of threshold trims and how each is used.

T-molding is used to cover transitions between floorings that are equal in height to create a flat threshold. It is most frequently used to transition from wood to tile floors, but may also be used between two wood floors. The top is flat and with a rounded edge and the underside has a ridge running the length that fits in the gap between the two floors.

Reducer, one-sided reducer, and flush reducer are names for the same type of trim. It is typically used to create a smooth transition between a wood floor and flooring with a higher profile, like high pile carpeting.

Overlap reducers or bi-level reducers are transition moldings typically used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and to connect floors with a lower height..

Thresholds or baby thresholds are moldings used where expansion is required. The most common use is to edge a sliding glass door, but this type of molding can also be used to transition to carpet. End cap or End moldings and square nose molding are alternate choices used for the same purpose.

Stair Trim

Overlap stair nosing, or bull nose, is typically used with floating stairs where expansion is required.

Flush, square edge stair nosing, or bull nose is edge trim used as a transition for stairs. The rounded edge fits over the edge of each step for a finished, professional look.

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Hardwood floors mean more than choosing a wood, grabbing some boards, and installing them in the room. Beyond the floor, people must take time to consider the various moldings or trims and accessories they will need to finish the look they are going for. Without moldings, trims and transition pieces, a hardwood floor job can look unfinished, drawing away from the beauty it adds to a room.

If installing a prefinished floor, most of them come with their own matching trim pieces to complete the job. Using an unfinished hardwood requires separate staining of unfinished molding and trim pieces in order to match the finished floor.

If installing engineered wood floors, you must also consider whether or not you’ll be using underlay and, if so, what the best choice is.

You may also need to consider what adhesive to use if going with either a glue-down installation (engineered wood or thin profile solid) or a floating glue-seam installation.

Moldings, Trim & Transitions

There are several different moldings and trim options designed to fit any flooring need. When installing hardwood floors, the following moldings may be required in order to complete the job:

• T-Molding: This molding is most commonly seen as a transition between a tiled floor and a wood floor, though it is also used to connect one wood floor to another.
• Reducer/One-Sided Reducer/Flush Reducer: This molding is typically used to level the flooring when connected to a floor with a lower height. It is also being used as a design element around fireplaces.
• Overlap Reducer: This molding is used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and with floors of a lower height.
• Bi-level Reducer: This molding is used with solid hardwood floors to transition to carpet or other floors of a lower height.
• Baby Threshold/Threshold: This molding is used in areas where expansion is required, such as with sliding glass doors, but can also be used with carpet.
• End Cap/Square Nose: This can be used similarly to a baby threshold molding.
• Overlap Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is typically used with floating steps where expansion may be required.
• Flush/Square Edge Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is used as a transition for stairs.
• Quarter Round: This is commonly used around baseboards and fixed objects throughout a room.
• Shoe Edge Molding: This works just as quarter round molding, but does so with a smaller profile.
• Baseboard/Wall Base: This is used around the base of all walls in the room to cover the expansion gap space the flooring needs to breathe.

Underlayment

Underlayment serves as the barrier between the hardwood flooring and the subfloor. It is used primarily with engineered wood floors. Solid hardwood floors typically only use rosin/felt paper as an underlayment.

Depending on the type of underlayment, its purpose is to provide cushion between the floor and the subfloor, muffle sound (important for above ground installations) and/or block moisture from getting to the hardwood floor (especially important when installing over a concrete subfloor).

• Basic Foam: This is available in several different types, based on the manufacturer. Essentially, this is a layer of foam to be used with concrete floors with at or below grade level installations. It may come with a plastic layer as a moisture barrier or with an additional layer of sticky material to aid with installation.
• Sound Choice: This is an eco-friendly underlayment option that provides insulation to the flooring. It will reduce the noise associated with walking on wood floors while also working to keep the floors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It has a vapor barrier to keep water from reaching the flooring as well.
• Floor Muffler: This will reduce the amount of noise produced by walking on the floors, but is not an eco-friendly product because it is completely synthetic.
• Cork: This is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a green underlayment option. It will work wonders to reduce the sounds from walking while also protecting the floor from moisture. It can be used for floating installations just laid over the subfloor, or it can be glued down.
• Proflex: This is an alternative to cork, but since it is used mainly with high rise buildings, it is suggested builders get approval with the appropriate homeowners association before using it. Commonly seen with concrete subfloors, this option both reduces moisture risk and sound from walking. It is pressed down with a peel off tape rather than glued down.
• Plastic Sheathing: A plastic sheet can be used on underneath whatever underlayment choice to add moisture protection. This option doesn’t provide much, if any, sound proofing.
• Vinyl: As with plastic, vinyl is an excellent option for moisture protection, but not so much for sound proofing.
• Rosin/Felt Paper: This type of underlayment does not provide a moisture barrier, or much sound proofing. This material was laid down when solid hardwood floors were being installed, to prevent drywall dust and other particles from getting to the installer’s eyes.

Adhesives

Solid hardwood floors that are ¾” thick must be nailed down to the subfloor. However, thin profile solids and many engineered hardwood floors may need to be glued down. Glue-seam floating engineered floors require adhesive to bond the tongue and groove edges together. There are many choices of adhesives available and it is important to choose the right one.

• Urethane Adhesives: These are the most commonly used adhesives for engineered and thin profile hardwood floor installations today. There are several different options out there, though they are not too environmentally friendly. It is important to check to ensure no adhesive is left anywhere on the wood after the installation and again in the proper day light. The adhesive can be cleaned up using mineral spirits.
• Water Based Adhesives: These adhesives are only to be used with engineered wood floors and are the best option for those who are concerned with environmental and health issues, though they do not always provide the best quality adhesion. Powder based adhesives are also available to mix with water. A damp cloth can be used to clean the adhesive before it sets. If it is fully cured, use mineral spirits.
• Floating Floor Glues: Many manufacturers make their own floating floor glues to be used to glue the seams of with their products. Each type of glue will have its own guidelines and recommendations for installation. These can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before the glue sets. Afterward, be careful when it comes to scraping the glue off other surfaces.

The best approach is to choosing the right adhesive is to follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Important Note: If using mineral spirits to clean up adhesive, ensure proper ventilation and perform away from any heat or flame sources.

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One of the most important factors to consider regarding your interior décor is the degree of integration and harmony you wish to achieve among the various areas in your home or work space. In some settings, a sense of continuity may be desired between adjacent rooms. In others, you may want sharply contrasted areas. You might wish to create the illusion that your new flooring has always been a part of the living or working space in which it is installed. Even with a limited budget, you can create striking effects with a bit of imagination, and often the best way to get the desired effect is the simplest one.

For laminate flooring, something as basic as the right style of molding can make all the difference in adding flow and continuity, as well as a sense of unity to an interior. There are several varieties of laminate flooring moldings that are available to you to help you gain these effects. But, which variety is the most appropriate for your specific space? Let’s take a look at the options.

Laminate Flooring Moldings

Reducer Moldings

This type of molding is useful when applying a transition from one floor space to another where the levels are slightly different. This situation sometimes occurs when the transition is between two different flooring materials, for example from a laminate floor to a tile floor, or when the floor of the adjacent room is the same material but installed at a different level.

End Moldings

An end molding can be used as another type of transition molding, but it is more useful when the transition is to an uneven surface such as a high-pile carpet or a thicker variety of tile. An end molding may also be a better choice when your flooring butts an edge such as a sliding glass door, where a quarter round molding may be too small. With a lower profile than a reducer strip laminate molding, an end molding can add a subtle, tailored look to your interior.

T-Moldings

T-moldings are useful for doorways or between other flooring sections which are at the same level. For example, if a laminate floor is installed in a particularly long room, a T-molding could be used for tying the two sections together. The T-molding is aptly named – shaped like a “T” – with the beams of the “T” serving as a bridge from one room or flooring section to another.

Baseboard Moldings

A baseboard is a well-known finishing element to a flooring project. The baseboard molding serves as a transition from a horizontal surface (e.g. your new laminate floor) to the vertical surface of a wall. Like all types of molding, you can match it with the color of the laminate floor, or paint it to match the wall. Either way, a baseboard molding can add a subtle, almost subliminal effect to the appearance of your room.

Base Shoe Moldings

This type of molding appears as a standard baseboard molding with a shallower profile. The base shoe molding is useful when trying to preserve the look of an existing baseboard while at the same time offering the advantages of its lower profile. The “shoe” portion of the molding is a rounded lip that helps to preserve the face of the baseboard from everyday wear, specifically when you vacuum your laminate floor.

Quarter Round Moldings

Used in the same way as a base shoe molding, the quarter round molding butts against your wall with a low, rounded exterior profile that adds a simple, yet tidy touch to your completed laminate flooring installation. This type of molding is often used behind cabinets where a low profile molding is better suited to support an object flush against the wall.

Stairnose Moldings

For making a transition from your floor to the edge of a flight of stairs or steps, a stairnose molding is a great solution. The molding sits flat and level on one side with your laminate flooring and closely hugs the first stair or step on the other side, rounding off the edge of the stair and adding a unique finishing touch to your completed laminate flooring project.

Something as simple as a molding can really make all the difference to the overall effect of your new laminate flooring project. Putting in laminate flooring moldings is often an afterthought to some, but the finished visual effect it creates is more often than not the defining feature of the completed project.

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