If you’re looking for new flooring that’s easy to install, floating floors are an excellent solution. This type of flooring gets its name from the way that it’s installed, which requires no nails or adhesives. Instead, floating floors simply lock in place and can usually be installed directly over most types of existing flooring. The Defiant collection from Lamton is a leading floating floor option that can withstand all types of abuse. This flooring is available at the price of $1.99 per square foot with free shipping from BuildDirect until March 1, 2021. It comes in six stunning colors and is embossed with 3D patterns to create an authentic hardwood look. These floating floors are water-resistant and have a high abrasion rating that can handle heavy foot traffic for amazing longevity. If you’re interested in finding out more about floating floors, read on to learn about them and how they’re installed.

Waterproof Floating FloorsFrom spilled coffee to wet bathrooms, waterproof engineered flooring gives you the beauty of hardwood without the stress. This type of flooring is easy to clean and won’t become warped or buckled after exposure to moisture. Consider installing waterproof engineered hardwood flooring in your home if you have children or pets to protect your investment. You’ll find a range of wood flooring waterproof options at BuildDirect, including Lamton Laminate which provides the look of wood without the fuss. From the bathrooms to your gourmet open kitchen, choosing waterproof engineered wood flooring is a smart choice that adds beauty to your home for years to come.

Floating laminate flooring installation

If you’re considering installing floating laminate flooring in your home, the process is easy with the right preparation and tools. Here are some step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process.

Step 1: Determine How Much Flooring to Buy

Before you can install any type of flooring, you’ll need to figure out how much you should buy. Measure the length and width of the room, then multiply those numbers and add 10-percent to the total as a cushion for any excess waste. Another thing to consider is the size of the planks, so make sure that you purchase enough flooring to cover each room completely with a little bit leftover in case you make a mistake. Installation methods vary by different manufacturers, but a floating floor generally has the same installation process regardless of the brand.

Step 2: Prepare the Room

It’s crucial to prep the room before you install your new floating floors. Remove all moldings, floor trim, and baseboard, and put everything aside. You can also purchase new trim if you want to elevate the space and add a nice look to go with your new floors. Depending on the height of the new flooring, you may need to cut door jambs and casings to ensure a proper fit. Simply set a piece of scrap flooring on top of the underlayment and draw a line next to the casing or jamb, tracing it with a pencil. This will mark the height you need to cut so that your new floors will fit snugly underneath. Finally, vacuum your floors and remove all debris before you begin the installation.

Step 3: Install the Underlayment

Underlayment is thin padding made of foam that helps correct imperfections in the subfloor and keeps your laminate flooring snugly in place. Start in one corner of the room and unroll the underlayment in the same direction as your new floors. Do not overlap the underlayment. Make sure that each of the edges is directly next to each other. You can cut the underlayment with a utility knife so it fits around obstacles and corners.

Step 4: Tape the Underlayment Seams

Use polyethylene tape to secure the seams of the underlayment in place. This creates a moisture barrier and is particularly vital if you’re installing floating floors over concrete, such as in a basement.

Step 5: Check the Materials

Now is the time to ensure that your new flooring is in good condition before installation. Open a few boxes and look for any signs of damage like splinters, chipping, or evidence of dust lodged in the tongue or grooves. Anything that looks out of place can prevent your new floor planks from locking together and forming a smooth, tight seam. If everything looks OK, it’s time to begin installing the floors.

Step 6: Planning and Cutting

The first row of flooring should be lined against the most visible wall and laid parallel to the longest wall in each room. Leave around a ¼-inch space between the flooring edge and walls as well as near the base of any cabinets. This helps the floors expand and contract as humidity levels change. You may also use a ¼-inch spacer as a guide. Any cuts to this type of flooring should be minimal except when you need to cut off an end piece on a row. Laminate is easy to cut, and all you need is a square to mark the line and a saber saw to make the cuts.

Step 7: Install Floor Planks

You want your floor planks to have a close-fitting seam, so place the last plank against the wall and use a pry bar to force it gently against the one beside it. The goal is to ensure that the tongue fits tightly into the groove. Mix and match your planks as you go, using material from different boxes. This will ensure a natural, organic look and provide more variations in color and tone.

Step 8: Install Rows of Wood

When installing rows, work from right to left and place the planks with the tongue side facing the wall. Angle the next board so that the tongue and groove snap together. Continue this process until you’ve completed one row, making sure to maintain a ¼-inch space between the flooring and the wall. You may need to cut the last plank of the row, but you can use any leftover material to start your next row to create a clean, staggered look. Use a hammering block and gently tap each piece into place until they form a tight seam.

Step 9: Cut A Cardboard Template

You may run into some tricky spots around door jambs or cabinets. Use a piece of stiff cardboard and trace the outline to create a template. Use this cardboard as your guide to make your cuts or to wedge the plank into place. You might be able to lightly shave a bit of the floor plank off from the bottom so it can be placed directly under the door jamb.

Step 10: Cut Plank Lengthwise

When you reach the last row of flooring, you may need to cut it lengthwise with a jigsaw in order to make it fit. Use the saw to rip the plank lengthwise so that it fits perfectly against the wall and is the correct width for a secure fit.

Cut the Tongue off of the Plank

If you need to cut the tongue off of a plank, use a sharp chisel or utility knife to remove it from the plank you are installing against.

Clamp Wood in Place

To attach the flat ends of planks together, clamp them into place and use white wood glue. Keep them clamped together for about 30 minutes or until the glue is fully set.

Install the Last Row

The last row of your flooring may be a bit more difficult to install. Remove the spacers to give you extra room and use a pry bar to gently pull the last piece tightly against the one before it. You may need to slide it into place using a block and hammer. If you’re gluing planks together, wait until it’s completely cured before you remove any spacers and painter’s tape and before you trim out the room with the molding around the perimeter of the room.

Step 11: Bad Laminate Installation

There are some signs to look for that may indicate a bad laminate installation. This usually occurs when the floor is installed too close to the walls, causing the planks to rise and hump across the middle. Another cause is when long screws or nails are installed through the floating floor, which can cause each piece to become uneven and buckle.

One Way to Repair Laminate Floors

If you have an issue with your laminate floors, start by removing the baseboard on each side of the room to ensure that the planks are tight against the wall. You may need to remove the last row of flooring to make repairs. If so, be careful not to damage the planks unless you have some extra materials left over. Use a pull bar to get under the edge of the plank, then use a hammer to gently tap it, pulling the bar sideways until it comes loose. If there’s evidence of nails or screws, you may need to completely remove these planks and reinstall new ones for a tight, smooth fit.

Floating floor FAQs

Do you put a floating floor under appliances?

You can install floating floors under appliances, but make sure there is enough space between each plank so that it can adjust due to the variations of humidity and moisture in your kitchen. It’s best to install the flooring first, then place the appliances on top of it.

How does a floating floor stay in place?

Floating floors use a tongue and groove design that allows them to attach together. With the right amount of spacing around the perimeter of the room, they can easily expand and contract with humidity fluctuations while staying in place.

How do you install floating laminate flooring?

Measure your room, gather your materials, and install each section row by row, making sure that they’re snugly attached together. Underlayment is recommended on concrete floors. Only minor cuts are needed when you reach the last row so that the planks fit securely.

Is a floating floor easy to install?

A floating floor is easy to install and does not require messy adhesives, screws, or nails. Most homeowners can install this type of flooring DIY with the right installation information and few simple tools.

Do you need underlayment for laminate flooring?

Underlayment is a layer of foam that provides a protective moisture barrier for your laminate flooring. It’s especially recommended when installing this type of flooring over concrete or in wet spaces like kitchens and bathrooms.

How much does it cost to have a floating floor installed?

Floating floors cost an average of between $2 and $8 per square foot. If you’re hiring a professional to install your floors, the national average is approximately $2,300 for a 300-square foot room.

How long does it take to install a floating floor?

The length of time it takes to install a floating floor depends on the size of the room and how much preparation is needed. Aside from prep time, it can take between 3-4 hours to install the flooring and an additional 2-3 hours to make cuts and install it around door jambs and cabinets.

What is the advantage of a floating floor?

Floating floors come in a variety of styles including vinyl, laminate, and engineered hardwoods. This flooring is beautiful, extremely durable, and very easy to install, making it a favorite among DIYers.

Why is my floating floor buckling?

Your floating floor may be buckling due to improper installation. If nails or screws were inserted into the floors, it can cause them to buckle. Another reason may be that there was not enough space around the edge of the room to allow the material to expand and contract.

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Vinyl is a widely popular material for flooring due to its durability, easy maintenance, and ease of installation. You’ll find this flooring in a range of different formats including luxury vinyl planks, loose lay tiles or planks, and much more. The popularity of loose lay flooring has greatly increased in recent years thanks to its versatility and flexibility. Read on to learn more about this flooring, mistakes to avoid, and how you can install it in any environment for a beautiful outcome.

What Is Loose Lay Vinyl Flooring?

Loose lay or loose laid flooring earned its name due to the fact that it doesn’t require fasteners or special mechanisms like tongue-and-groove to install it and keep it in place. The material is constructed of a thick vinyl material that lays directly onto the floor and stays put once it’s completely installed. The flooring relies on friction to keep it in place, and a rubber backing lies directly on top of a smooth, flat surface to give it traction. A benefit of this flooring style is that it can be added directly over existing flooring, and the installation method is easy enough for DIY projects.

How To Install Loose Lay Flooring

This flooring comes in several formats including sheets, planks, and tiles. To begin the installation, make sure that the room is at a steady temperature of 65 degrees or higher for at least 48 hours. Remove all furniture from the room and remove the toilet if you’re planning to install this flooring in a bathroom. Next, you’ll need to carefully remove all floor molding so the loose lay tiles can be installed directly against the wall. If the floors are carpeted, you’ll need to remove it along with any padding, then sweep the floor clean to remove all adhesives and debris. You can fill any gaps or low spots using wood filler or a self-leveling compound on concrete floors.

Many loose laid flooring manufacturers include a heavy fiberglass backing that doesn’t require the use of glue or other adhesives. Others may require you to apply a special type of adhesive to the back of the tile or directly onto the floor before installation. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to confirm. Lay the tile out and mix it up to ensure that it looks good in terms of coloring and markings. Start by placing the tiles on the floor at one side of the room against the wall and work your way out until you’ve reached the opposite side. Gently press down on each tile to ensure that it’s securely in place before adding another one. If you end up with excess material, simply use a razor knife to cut away the excess. Check to make sure the floor is level, then reinstall the floor molding and the installation is complete.

Top Mistakes To Avoid When Installing Loose Lay Flooring

While loose lay flooring is quite easy to install, there are a few common mistakes you should avoid in order to ensure a successful installation:

•   An uneven subfloor will cause the loose lay tiles to shift. Always make sure that the flooring is flat and perfectly level before you begin installing the tile.

•   If your loose lay tiles require adhesive, make sure that you apply it to the entire backside of the tile. An adhesive that’s only applied to the center will cause the edges of each individual tile to come loose and curl over time.

•   When using a substrate, make sure that it’s fully adhered to the floor first, or else the loose lay vinyl will not remain in place.

•   Never attempt to install this flooring over the carpet or cushioned sheet vinyl, as it will result in too much movement, causing the new flooring to become loose and uneven.

•   Make sure that the adhesive you use is waterproof, especially when installing this flooring in a kitchen or bathroom.

•   Failing to plan the layout in advance and failing to use a level as you go will result in more unnecessary adjustments, too many cuts, and wasted materials. Always plan the layout in advance, do all of the necessary measurements, and check to ensure that each tile is level as you install the flooring so that it’s perfectly in place.

Can you lay loose lay vinyl tiles over tiles?

If you’re wondering whether you can install loose lay vinyl tiles over existing tile, the answer is yes. Make sure that the new flooring won’t be too high for the room, or else it could prevent doors from opening and closing properly. This applies to cabinet doors, baseboards, and floor registers, too. Even if the new loose lay floor doesn’t require an adhesive, it’s best to clean the existing tile thoroughly before installation. Never install loose lay vinyl tiles over a tile that is cracked, loose, or missing. Grout lines should be ¼ inch or less, or else the new tile will eventually press into the grout lines, causing visible marks and lines in the flooring.

Loose Lay Tile Flooring from BuildDirect

As you can see, this type of flooring is durable and easy to install. At BuildDirect, you’ll find a variety of loose lay vinyl options for many different applications. These products are suitable for both residential and commercial applications, making them a wise choice for your next flooring project. Visit our website today to find out more or to request more information.

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Grout is a common material used with tile, and it keeps the spaces between each tile looking uniform. This material can become damaged over time, and it will likely require a bit of repair to restore it to its original state. If you’re dealing with damaged grout, there are some easy ways to fix it yourself. With just a few simple tools and some quick training, you can easily repair damaged grout and make your floors, backsplash, and feature walls look fantastic again.

Types of Grout

Grout comes in two major formats: sanded and unsanded. The type grout you use will be based on the width of your tile joints and where you plan to make your repairs. Before you begin, measure the space between the tiles. If it’s larger than 1/8 of an inch, you should use sanded grout. If it’s smaller than 1/8 of an inch, use unsanded grout. You should never use sanded grout with glass, metal, or marble tiles since it can scratch the surface and cause damage. Acrylic latex grout is a good alternative, but it will require sealing. Epoxy grout works great to resist stains, but it may be a bit difficult to apply.

Repairing Cracks with Caulk

Cracking is the most common cause of damaged grout. As you walk on tile floors, the grout becomes weaker and can eventually start to show unsightly cracks. You can remedy this by using caulk to fill in the cracks and restore the look of the grout. First, remove all loose and cracked grout with a grout saw or Dremel tool. Apply the caulk gently to the cracks, smoothing it down with a plastic spoon. You can also wet your fingers and smooth the caulk by hand.

Make sure you allow the caulk to fully cure for at least 48 hours before you walk on the floors. Avoid putting heavy furniture back until it’s fully cured as well. There are several types of caulk available and some are made in a variety of colors. Look for a caulk that matches the existing grout color as closely as possible.

Repairing Cracks with Grout

If you want to fill in the damaged grout with a new layer of grout, it will create a nice, uniform look. Since grout is porous, it crumbles over time with normal wear. Using grout to fill in cracks will restore it beautifully, and you can make spot repairs as needed. In order to repair damaged grout that’s cracking using new grout, follow these steps:

• Use a bamboo skewer and drag it along the grout line. This will loosen any cracked and damaged grout. Use a vacuum with a hose attachment to clean out any excess loosened grout.
• Mix the new grout with water in a small container. A cup or bowl should work fine. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before mixing.
• Evenly spread the new grout over the damaged grout lines. Use a grout float to ensure even application. Drag the float across the grout lines using slow movement in several directions. This will pack the new grout into the cracks and keep air bubbles out.
• Scrape any excess grout from the tiles using the edge of the grout float.
• Give the new grout about five minutes to sit. Once it’s semi-dry, wipe your tiles using a sponge dampened with tap water. When a hazy layer appears on the tiles, you can buff them clean using a dry rag or microfiber cloth.

Remove Damaged Grout with a Grout Saw and Reapply

If you prefer to completely remove the old, damaged grout and reapply it, this process yields great results. You will need to use a special grout saw to effectively remove the damaged grout and prevent your tiles from becoming damaged. As you use the saw, be sure to do so with careful, gentle motions. Aim the saw directly into the grout lines and avoid using it on the tile itself whenever possible. While you remove the old grout, use even, steady motions and push the saw directly into the grout. Wear safety goggles for additional protection.

After the old grout is completely removed, use a special grout cleaner to clean up any excess, leftover debris. You can make a homemade grout cleaner using equal parts of vinegar and water. Never use abrasive cleaners as they can cause scratches on your tile. After cleaning the grout lines, rinse everything using clean water. You can absorb any excess water by using a rag or some paper towels. Don’t completely dry it since the grout needs a small amount of moisture to adhere and cure.

Once you’re ready to reapply the new grout, you can follow the steps above. It’s important to note that you’ll need more grout than you would if you were to simply repair existing cracks. When you use the sponge, wring it out frequently so you’re not introducing too much water to the grout. After application, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommended drying time so the grout can completely cure.

To maintain the beauty of your grout, you should apply a grout sealant. After the grout has completely cured, you can apply the sealant and allow it to dry. The sealant will keep the grout safe from further damage, and it also protects it from absorbing stains and dirt. There may be a haze on your tiles after applying sealant. Simply buff them out using a soft cloth until the haze is fully gone. Re-seal your grout at least once every six months for best results.

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The living room and the kitchen are two of the most-used rooms in the home but their needs are very different, which often results in two different flooring types in these spaces. Keep the look between the two rooms smooth and safe by ensuring that there are proper floor transitions between rooms. The types of transition you need depends greatly on what type of flooring is installed in each of the spaces.

Why Do You Need A Room Transition Strip?

Different types of flooring feature different installation types. Putting one edge straight against another edge would result in uneven and raw areas that would not hold up to wear and tear and which could even make it easy to trip. Placing a proper room transition strip from one room to another helps protect both types of flooring and provide a clean, finished look. Visually, the transition strip acts as a reminder to anyone walking through the home that there may be a slight height difference between two types of flooring.

Not only are room transition strips a visually pleasing way to complete flooring installation; they are also a way to allow for the proper expansion and contraction of the flooring itself. In the warm weather of the summer and spring floorings such as hardwood and vinyl tends to expand a bit. In cold weather, the flooring contracts. The space under the transition strips allows for the expansion and contraction without creating a gap between the two floorings.

Multi-Floor Transition

When you have multiple flooring types in one house, keep all the room transitions consistent by opting for a four-in-one transition strip. This four-piece design makes it easy to bridge the gap between many different flooring types, depending upon what pieces you use. This makes it a versatile solution if you have carpet in a living room, tile in an entry, and laminate in a sunroom.

Between Hard Floors

When you have two hard floors that but up against one another, a T-shaped transition strip is the ideal solution. The top of the transition strip bridges the gap between the two hard floors, which are able to come right up to the bar that extends from the center of the transition strip.

How to Transition Between Two Different Wood Floors

When two different wood floors come together, a simple strip, called a seam binder, makes the ideal transition. This piece of wood is the same height as most wood planks and screws into place, providing a finished look at the junction where two wood floors meet. This seam binder simply screws into place, making it fast and easy to install. Purchase them finished to coordinate with the wood flooring you chose or unfinished and stain or paint them the color of your choice.

Carpet to Ceramic Tile

When connecting carpet to ceramic tile, there is a two-piece transition that is needed. The first piece is a metal strip with tacks along the edge that secure the end of the carpet in place so it can be stretched properly. Next, a vinyl transition strip clicks into the holder attached to the metal strip, smoothing out the transition between the two types of flooring and giving it a finished look.

Flooring Transitions From Wood to Tile

Generally, tile is a much thicker product than a plank of wood or laminate. The result can be uneven. Get a smooth transition from. Bathroom or kitchen tile to the surrounding wood by using a transition strip designed specifically to bridge these two flooring materials.  To account for the tile to hardwood transition height difference, one side of the strip is slightly more accommodating on the underside, allowing for the height difference.

Vinyl to Tile Transitions

Tile is a thick material with mortar or thin-set underneath. Vinyl, on the other hand, is very thin. This difference in material heights makes it necessary to get a tile to vinyl transition strip that features a gentle curve, smoothing the transition between the two heights and making the slight difference visually noticeable.

Carpet to Edge

Transitions don’t just happen from one type of flooring to the other. They also take place between carpet and the surrounding walls. Begin any carpet installation by screwing a metal carpet edge gripper into place. A series of spikes along the strip make it easy to stretch the carpet correctly and keep it secured, right up to the edge of the room. Once installed, a metal lip curves over the edge of the carpet to prevent the carpet from fraying.

Having one consistent flooring that runs through the entire house can make a space feel large but it often is not realistic. Hardwood floors look chic in a living room but they aren’t practical for kitchens and bathrooms where water damage can occur.  In wet spaces, ceramic tile or luxury vinyl flooring makes a more durable choice. Whether you are laying floors in a brand new home or simply updating a single room of the space, transition strips are a necessary part of the installation process. Transition strips are designed to minimize visual disruption while providing a smooth and protective gap between two flooring types.

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Whether you’re installing hickory or maple flooring, underlayment is essential. Underlayment may not be visible underneath your beautiful wood floors, but this material offers many key benefits. Along with providing added support and sound protection, underlayment also improves durability and helps your flooring last longer. To get the most out of the underlayment, however, you’ll need to select the right material. Find out how to choose the best underlayment for your new hardwood floors.

Know Your Underlayment Options

Underlayment comes in a range of materials and thicknesses. Take a closer look at some of the most common types of underlayment for hardwood flooring.

• Felt: Perhaps the simplest type of underlayment, felt offers basic sound absorption and moisture barrier capabilities.
• Foam: This material is one of the easiest and most affordable types of underlayment to install. Foam underlayment provides a high level of sound insulation, making it a great option for limiting hollow noises.
• Rubber: This type of underlayment takes sound insulation to the next level, easily absorbing noises and disturbances. Thanks to its pliability and flexibility, rubber underlayment is also one of the easiest types to install.
• Cork: This material offers both temperature insulation and sound absorption. Since it’s made from a natural material, cork underlayment is one of the most eco-friendly options you’ll find.

Consider the Hardwood Species

Not every underlayment material pairs perfectly with each hardwood species. To find the ideal match, consider the type of hardwood flooring you’re planning to install.

• Cherry: This hardwood species is known for its warm, cozy hues, but you may not realize that it’s one of the softest types of wood flooring. Cherry works best with an underlayment that provides extra support and padding, such as cork or rubber.
• Hickory: One of the hardest and most durable hardwood species, hickory flooring doesn’t need much help to withstand traffic and wear. Hickory flooring typically pairs well with flexible foam underlayment.
• Maple: Along with hickory, maple is one of the hardest types of wood flooring. It generally works best with foam or rubber underlayment, as both offer a moderate amount of support and insulation.
• Oak: Whether you choose white or red, oak flooring is on the softer side. Both types of oak pair well with rubber underlayment, which provides the insulation and absorption capabilities white and red oak need.
• Walnut: This type of flooring may look impenetrable, but walnut is one of the softest types of hardwood flooring. Consider pairing it with cork underlayment for extra support and added durability.

Think About the Subfloor Condition

While the hardwood species certainly impacts the type of underlayment you’ll choose, don’t forget to consider the subfloor, too. Take note of both the material and the condition as you make your decision. Subfloors that are damaged or uneven tend to work best with the most flexible underlayment options, as these materials can make up for any subfloor imperfections.

If the subfloor is plywood, opt for an underlayment that’s semi-permeable. This type of underlayment allows both the hardwood floor and the wood subfloor to breathe without trapping mold and mildew or causing the material to rot. If the subfloor is concrete, choose an impermeable underlayment instead. This type of material is designed to stop moisture in its tracks and prevent water from seeping through the concrete and into the hardwood floor.

Evaluate the Purpose of the Room

In many cases, the room itself determines the ideal underlayment. For example, a condo or apartment on a higher level of a building may need a rubber underlayment which can provide additional sound insulation and vibration absorption and prevent disruptions in the unit below. Along the same lines, a family room or entryway that experiences a high level of traffic may need a cork underlayment, an underlayment which is more supportive and can boost durability.

Accommodate Radiant Heating Needs

If your new wood flooring needs to accommodate radiant heating, you’ll need to be more selective with the type of underlayment you choose. You’ll want to rule out any underlayment options made with asphalt, as this material tends to produce strong odors when heated. Since radiant heating can cause temperature fluctuations that may produce condensation, you’ll also want to choose an underlayment type that can handle moisture without damaging either the hardwood floor above or the subfloor below.

Mazama Hardwood – Handscraped Acacia Collection / SKU: 10082300

Assess Environmental Concerns

Whether you want to keep harmful chemicals out of your home or you want to minimize your carbon footprint, you’ll also want to assess any environmental concerns with your underlayment choice. Many types of rubber underlayment are made with recycled materials that make this option more sustainable than most. In addition, cork is easy to recycle after use, making it one of the most eco-friendly options on the market. Before you choose an underlayment, check the specifics to confirm the materials and the environmental impact.

Check the Building Requirements

If you’re installing hardwood flooring in a larger building, remember to check the building requirements for underlayment. Your building may require you to use an underlayment with a certain impact isolation class (IIC) rating, which absorbs footsteps, or a particular sound transmission class (STC) rating, which refers to noise reduction.

Your building may also regulate materials for safety or durability reasons. Before proceeding with your hardwood floor installation, make sure your underlayment choice meets or exceeds what your building requires, or you could have to schedule a second renovation project sooner than you had planned.

Confirm the Manufacturer’s Approval

Finally, don’t forget to confirm the flooring manufacturer’s approval. Many hardwood flooring manufacturers recommend certain types of underlayment for use with their products. You’ll want to make sure that the underlayment’s material, thickness, and installation requirements are compatible with the flooring. After all, selecting the best underlayment for the hardwood flooring ensures that your floors will look fantastic, feel comfortable, and last for years to come.

Keep the tips above in mind as you pair the ideal underlayment with your hardwood of choice. Once you’ve chosen the right underlayment, you’ll be one step closer to installing new hardwood floors and creating your dream home.

Resources:

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/wood-floors-guide

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/types-of-hardwood-flooring/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/5-hardwood-flooring-options-to-match-the-style-of-rooms/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/hardwood-flooring-installation-5-tips/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/what-to-ask-when-shopping-for-hardwood-flooring/

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Flooring underlayment is essential for a range of surfaces, including many vinyl flooring options (please note thinner vinyl flooring styles aren’t usually compatible with underlay). Absorbing the sounds of people walking over it and enhanced comfort underfoot are is just a couple of the advantages of having flooring underlayment. It will also do wonders for a flooring surface’s longevity and durability. For anyone considering a DIY approach to vinyl flooring installation, here’s what you need to know about underlay:

What is underlayment?

The installment of floors requires at least a few layers, sometimes as many as four. Here is a breakdown of the four primary layers that account for most floors:

1. Joists: The first layer, which is the wooden foundation underneath the floor.
2. Subfloor: Usually already intact; generally plywood, which provides support for everything.
3. Underlayment: Rolls of plywood, fiberboards or other rolls of material that serve as a buffer between the subfloor and the surface, improving stability.
4. Finish floor: The actual materials you see and walk on, such as tile or stone.

Essentially, underlayment is installed to make sure that any subtle mistakes or discrepancies made within the subfloor layer will not become an issue. Underlayment also plays a big role in the acoustic performance of your floor.

Why you need vinyl flooring underlayment

There are three primary reasons why vinyl flooring owners should have underlayment installed beneath the surface: To allow for a smoother exterior along the finish floor, to provide added stability and protection, and to enhance the acoustic capabilities of the floor. Installing underlayment is how you can add compression resistance to your floor, which will vastly reduce wear and tear after years of traffic in your house. It also helps guard against moisture. Finally, luxury vinyl flooring underlayment is the best way to get the most out of your floor acoustically, as sounds will be absorbed, minimizing the echoes of footsteps.

Does vinyl flooring need underlayment?

If you’re trying to increase some height to your floor, then adding an underlayment under the finish floor can be useful. If you’re unsure whether installing  underlayment for your vinyl flooring project  is truly necessary, then talk to knowledgeable BuildDirect product expert or a professional installer to see if your existing subfloor is already suitable enough to have the finish floor covering it.

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There are a lot of decisions to make when considering wood flooring, and often one of the most overlooked considerations is the trim. The purpose of molding and trim is to give the floor a professional, finished appearance, to join the floor to the walls and create seamless transitions to other rooms. Choosing the right trim and moldings is crucial to the aesthetic of the any room, whether you prefer an ornate trim or an unobtrusive low-profile molding.

Engineered wood flooring generally comes with matching trim. Traditional hardwood flooring comes with no trim. The trim you choose should closely match your flooring in grain and styling – rustic flooring should be paired with rustic trim. To create a classic Victorian look, consider wider baseboards with a carved design element. For a harmonious overall design, you may also want to consider the wood trim around doors and windows.

Different types of molding are used for each specific purpose. What you will need depends on the features of your home. Here are the basic choices and what you need to know about each:

Baseboards or Wall Base Trims

Wood floors expand and contract with the temperature and humidity of the air. As a result, space must be left around the edges of the room and things that are stationary, like kitchen cabinetry. Trim attached to the wall or the base of things built in, called baseboard or wall base, covers and hides the gap. This trim can range from an unadorned rounded-edge board to a wide, ornately carved décor statement.

Quarter round is often used in conjunction with baseboards to add dimension to the transition between the bottom of the baseboard and the floor. It can also be used instead of baseboard as a very low profile trim.

Shoe edge molding essentially has the same purpose as quarter round molding with a smaller profile.

Transition Trims

Transition trims are used to bridge the gap between different types of flooring or to cover the threshold between rooms. Here are the different types of threshold trims and how each is used.

T-molding is used to cover transitions between floorings that are equal in height to create a flat threshold. It is most frequently used to transition from wood to tile floors, but may also be used between two wood floors. The top is flat and with a rounded edge and the underside has a ridge running the length that fits in the gap between the two floors.

Reducer, one-sided reducer, and flush reducer are names for the same type of trim. It is typically used to create a smooth transition between a wood floor and flooring with a higher profile, like high pile carpeting.

Overlap reducers or bi-level reducers are transition moldings typically used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and to connect floors with a lower height..

Thresholds or baby thresholds are moldings used where expansion is required. The most common use is to edge a sliding glass door, but this type of molding can also be used to transition to carpet. End cap or End moldings and square nose molding are alternate choices used for the same purpose.

Stair Trim

Overlap stair nosing, or bull nose, is typically used with floating stairs where expansion is required.

Flush, square edge stair nosing, or bull nose is edge trim used as a transition for stairs. The rounded edge fits over the edge of each step for a finished, professional look.

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Hardwood floors mean more than choosing a wood, grabbing some boards, and installing them in the room. Beyond the floor, people must take time to consider the various moldings or trims and accessories they will need to finish the look they are going for. Without moldings, trims and transition pieces, a hardwood floor job can look unfinished, drawing away from the beauty it adds to a room.

If installing a prefinished floor, most of them come with their own matching trim pieces to complete the job. Using an unfinished hardwood requires separate staining of unfinished molding and trim pieces in order to match the finished floor.

If installing engineered wood floors, you must also consider whether or not you’ll be using underlay and, if so, what the best choice is.

You may also need to consider what adhesive to use if going with either a glue-down installation (engineered wood or thin profile solid) or a floating glue-seam installation.

Moldings, Trim & Transitions

There are several different moldings and trim options designed to fit any flooring need. When installing hardwood floors, the following moldings may be required in order to complete the job:

• T-Molding: This molding is most commonly seen as a transition between a tiled floor and a wood floor, though it is also used to connect one wood floor to another.
• Reducer/One-Sided Reducer/Flush Reducer: This molding is typically used to level the flooring when connected to a floor with a lower height. It is also being used as a design element around fireplaces.
• Overlap Reducer: This molding is used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and with floors of a lower height.
• Bi-level Reducer: This molding is used with solid hardwood floors to transition to carpet or other floors of a lower height.
• Baby Threshold/Threshold: This molding is used in areas where expansion is required, such as with sliding glass doors, but can also be used with carpet.
• End Cap/Square Nose: This can be used similarly to a baby threshold molding.
• Overlap Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is typically used with floating steps where expansion may be required.
• Flush/Square Edge Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is used as a transition for stairs.
• Quarter Round: This is commonly used around baseboards and fixed objects throughout a room.
• Shoe Edge Molding: This works just as quarter round molding, but does so with a smaller profile.
• Baseboard/Wall Base: This is used around the base of all walls in the room to cover the expansion gap space the flooring needs to breathe.

Underlayment

Underlayment serves as the barrier between the hardwood flooring and the subfloor. It is used primarily with engineered wood floors. Solid hardwood floors typically only use rosin/felt paper as an underlayment.

Depending on the type of underlayment, its purpose is to provide cushion between the floor and the subfloor, muffle sound (important for above ground installations) and/or block moisture from getting to the hardwood floor (especially important when installing over a concrete subfloor).

• Basic Foam: This is available in several different types, based on the manufacturer. Essentially, this is a layer of foam to be used with concrete floors with at or below grade level installations. It may come with a plastic layer as a moisture barrier or with an additional layer of sticky material to aid with installation.
• Sound Choice: This is an eco-friendly underlayment option that provides insulation to the flooring. It will reduce the noise associated with walking on wood floors while also working to keep the floors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It has a vapor barrier to keep water from reaching the flooring as well.
• Floor Muffler: This will reduce the amount of noise produced by walking on the floors, but is not an eco-friendly product because it is completely synthetic.
• Cork: This is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a green underlayment option. It will work wonders to reduce the sounds from walking while also protecting the floor from moisture. It can be used for floating installations just laid over the subfloor, or it can be glued down.
• Proflex: This is an alternative to cork, but since it is used mainly with high rise buildings, it is suggested builders get approval with the appropriate homeowners association before using it. Commonly seen with concrete subfloors, this option both reduces moisture risk and sound from walking. It is pressed down with a peel off tape rather than glued down.
• Plastic Sheathing: A plastic sheet can be used on underneath whatever underlayment choice to add moisture protection. This option doesn’t provide much, if any, sound proofing.
• Vinyl: As with plastic, vinyl is an excellent option for moisture protection, but not so much for sound proofing.
• Rosin/Felt Paper: This type of underlayment does not provide a moisture barrier, or much sound proofing. This material was laid down when solid hardwood floors were being installed, to prevent drywall dust and other particles from getting to the installer’s eyes.

Adhesives

Solid hardwood floors that are ¾” thick must be nailed down to the subfloor. However, thin profile solids and many engineered hardwood floors may need to be glued down. Glue-seam floating engineered floors require adhesive to bond the tongue and groove edges together. There are many choices of adhesives available and it is important to choose the right one.

• Urethane Adhesives: These are the most commonly used adhesives for engineered and thin profile hardwood floor installations today. There are several different options out there, though they are not too environmentally friendly. It is important to check to ensure no adhesive is left anywhere on the wood after the installation and again in the proper day light. The adhesive can be cleaned up using mineral spirits.
• Water Based Adhesives: These adhesives are only to be used with engineered wood floors and are the best option for those who are concerned with environmental and health issues, though they do not always provide the best quality adhesion. Powder based adhesives are also available to mix with water. A damp cloth can be used to clean the adhesive before it sets. If it is fully cured, use mineral spirits.
• Floating Floor Glues: Many manufacturers make their own floating floor glues to be used to glue the seams of with their products. Each type of glue will have its own guidelines and recommendations for installation. These can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before the glue sets. Afterward, be careful when it comes to scraping the glue off other surfaces.

The best approach is to choosing the right adhesive is to follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Important Note: If using mineral spirits to clean up adhesive, ensure proper ventilation and perform away from any heat or flame sources.

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The purpose of molding is to cover edges, camouflage expansion spaces, and bridge surfaces where wood ends and other types of flooring begin, like tile or carpet. Engineered flooring often comes with matching trim, but for solid wood flooring, you’ll need to shop for these pieces. The last finishing step after the floor is completely installed is the trim. In order to avoid frustrating last-minute issues, plan for trim and molding in advance as part of the overall installation.

What Type of Trim Do I Need?

To determine what kind of trim you’ll need, consider the edges of the room and anything that meets the floor, for example installed cabinets, fireplaces, stairways, doorways, and transitions between floorings. Here is how different types of trim are used:

• Wood to tile or wood to wood: Usually, this calls for a T-molding, so named because it has a rounded top T shape. The top of the molding is slightly rounded and the stem on the bottom fits between the ends of two types of flooring roughly equal in height.
• Uneven levels: A reducer eliminates a raised edge if one floor surface is noticeably higher of lower than the other. Reducers can be one-sided, flush, bi-level or overlapping. Each type of reducer trim does the same thing, eases the transition between floors of different levels.
• Threshold: Threshold trim bridges the gap between the floor and a sliding glass door. This leaves an expansion gap in place, and can also connect wood floors to carpet. End cap or square nose molding may also be used for this purpose.
• Stairs: If your floor will end under the floating edge of stairs and require expansion room, you’ll need overlap stair nosing or bull nose trim. For stairs that end flush, use flush or square edge stair nosing.
• Baseboards: around the walls, trim will be necessary to cover the gaps left by expansion space. You can use decorative or plain baseboards, with quarter round or shoe edge molding at the bottom to conceal additional gaps.

Ways to Install Molding and Trim

• Baseboards and other trim may be attached to the wall every 16 inches on the studs using staples or finishing nails.
• Transitional T-moldings are usually glued in place to the subfloor. Reducer trims have a tongue and groove edge that attach to the last floorboard and overlap the edge of the next surface.Baseboards and other trim may be attached to the wall every 16 inches on the studs using staples or finishing nails.
• Overlap reducers and threshold transitional trims are commonly used with floating floors and with transitions to carpet. They overlap both edges and may be nailed or glued down.

General Tips for Installation

• Unless you plan to paint trim to match the walls, select trim that is as close in grain pattern and color to your flooring as possible, and select wood strips that match the trim with little variation to go around the perimeter of the walls.
• Like the flooring planks, moldings should be acclimated for 72 hours.
• Pre-drilling is highly recommended to avoid splitting and splintering when fastening with nails or staples.
• Start with the longest unbroken wall, usually the outside wall.
• When installing shoe edge or quarter round moldings, do not drive in nails or staples at a downward angle. It may interfere with the floor expansion area.
• Splice trim using miter cuts. For an unbroken look, the direction of the miter should be oriented with the long point away from the room’s main entryway, the same direction of your vision as you enter the room.

Special Circumstances

Doorways

It’s tempting to continue flooring through a doorway, but using a transition (T-molding) is usually a better option. Creating an exact fit is difficult, and using a molding allows a little extra expansion easement. If the flooring is floated, you must use a transition molding if the doorways is less than 6 feet wide.

Pipes, Vents, Cabinets and Other Fixed Objects

A general rule of thumb is to leave a 3/8” expansion gap around any fixed object and use moldings, pipe rings, or vent covers to conceal the gaps.

Raised Hearths

Transitions around fireplaces are often awkward. The most natural looking way to handle a raised hearth is to trim out an area around the hearth itself using an undercut saw with a diamond-tipped blade. Two cuts are required and this needs to be prepared before installing the floor. The first cut goes at the vertical height level of the floor and the second flush with the subfloor. Chisel the area between the two cuts for the flooring to slide between.

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One of the most important factors to consider regarding your interior décor is the degree of integration and harmony you wish to achieve among the various areas in your home or work space. In some settings, a sense of continuity may be desired between adjacent rooms. In others, you may want sharply contrasted areas. You might wish to create the illusion that your new flooring has always been a part of the living or working space in which it is installed. Even with a limited budget, you can create striking effects with a bit of imagination, and often the best way to get the desired effect is the simplest one.

For laminate flooring, something as basic as the right style of molding can make all the difference in adding flow and continuity, as well as a sense of unity to an interior. There are several varieties of laminate flooring moldings that are available to you to help you gain these effects. But, which variety is the most appropriate for your specific space? Let’s take a look at the options.

Laminate Flooring Moldings

Reducer Moldings

This type of molding is useful when applying a transition from one floor space to another where the levels are slightly different. This situation sometimes occurs when the transition is between two different flooring materials, for example from a laminate floor to a tile floor, or when the floor of the adjacent room is the same material but installed at a different level.

End Moldings

An end molding can be used as another type of transition molding, but it is more useful when the transition is to an uneven surface such as a high-pile carpet or a thicker variety of tile. An end molding may also be a better choice when your flooring butts an edge such as a sliding glass door, where a quarter round molding may be too small. With a lower profile than a reducer strip laminate molding, an end molding can add a subtle, tailored look to your interior.

T-Moldings

T-moldings are useful for doorways or between other flooring sections which are at the same level. For example, if a laminate floor is installed in a particularly long room, a T-molding could be used for tying the two sections together. The T-molding is aptly named – shaped like a “T” – with the beams of the “T” serving as a bridge from one room or flooring section to another.

Baseboard Moldings

A baseboard is a well-known finishing element to a flooring project. The baseboard molding serves as a transition from a horizontal surface (e.g. your new laminate floor) to the vertical surface of a wall. Like all types of molding, you can match it with the color of the laminate floor, or paint it to match the wall. Either way, a baseboard molding can add a subtle, almost subliminal effect to the appearance of your room.

Base Shoe Moldings

This type of molding appears as a standard baseboard molding with a shallower profile. The base shoe molding is useful when trying to preserve the look of an existing baseboard while at the same time offering the advantages of its lower profile. The “shoe” portion of the molding is a rounded lip that helps to preserve the face of the baseboard from everyday wear, specifically when you vacuum your laminate floor.

Quarter Round Moldings

Used in the same way as a base shoe molding, the quarter round molding butts against your wall with a low, rounded exterior profile that adds a simple, yet tidy touch to your completed laminate flooring installation. This type of molding is often used behind cabinets where a low profile molding is better suited to support an object flush against the wall.

Stairnose Moldings

For making a transition from your floor to the edge of a flight of stairs or steps, a stairnose molding is a great solution. The molding sits flat and level on one side with your laminate flooring and closely hugs the first stair or step on the other side, rounding off the edge of the stair and adding a unique finishing touch to your completed laminate flooring project.

Something as simple as a molding can really make all the difference to the overall effect of your new laminate flooring project. Putting in laminate flooring moldings is often an afterthought to some, but the finished visual effect it creates is more often than not the defining feature of the completed project.

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