Comments on: How to Install Molding and Trim

By: Mark Morris

Mark Morris — Sat, 03 Jan 2015 15:20:40 +0000

What kind of transition piece should be used when laminate flooring meets bottom of carpeted stairs?

By: Deanna

Deanna — Thu, 11 Dec 2014 21:54:07 +0000

I’m reprinting my home (inside, a room at a time) and having new carpet installed and I want to replace and install new base boards. Where do I start? Do I first remove old base boards, then paint? Do I have carpet installed before or after I do new base boards? This is a DIY project for myself since my husband is a disabled vet. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

By: Richard

Richard — Fri, 29 Aug 2014 02:30:43 +0000

Can I have laminate flooring installed if my sub floor is same height as my sliding glass door frame?

By: Richard

Richard — Fri, 29 Aug 2014 02:29:22 +0000

I want to install laminate flooring but my sliding glass door is level with my sub floor. Is this a problem or will it still work

By: Sherry Ann Johnson Parsons

Sherry Ann Johnson Parsons — Sun, 16 Mar 2014 04:15:02 +0000

I bought a house in Missouri and when getting quotes for laminating the house except for kitchen and bathrooms I was told they don’t laminate stairs in the North. That’s only done I’m the South. But he could do it for a cost of $2000.00. The rest of the house 3 bedroom,hallway,entrance, and living room would be $5000.00.
I want to know can stairs be laminated and are there stair kits so you don’t have to make so many cuts of the laminate. Also please tell Mr everything I need to do the stairs from padding to trim.
I’ve seen pictures of stairs laminated even in your website.
Thank you.

By: Bill Bojanowski

Bill Bojanowski — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 07:31:03 +0000

I have basebord heat along one wall do I start on that wall or the opposite wall and how do I leave a spacer against the wall if I can’t reach it?

By: Todd Evans

Todd Evans — Tue, 04 Dec 2012 03:04:40 +0000

Question,
I’m a 27 year veteran high end custom cabinet maker who was the Manager of several shops, VP of a shop for 5 years before opening and being a working CEO, who built and installed thousands of cabinets in hundreds of high end homes up to about 12,000sq. ft. in the California bay area. I owned my shop for 11 years, and also owned a solid surface and Custom Granite shop ( I’ve been schooled , built and installed solid surface for 25 years, every type)
Unfortunately I ended up wearing my body out and suffered from extensive major injuries, I had to have major surgeries on shoulders, knees, hands, etc. I have had to stop this trade per surgeons orders.
Whenever the hardwood floor guys would install around a sliding glass door, they always ran the floor to the door so it did not stick up so high prone to breakage at threshold, and they would either make or ask me to make a piece of 3/4″ quarter round, as tall as or 1/16″ taller than the wood,aluminum or vynel threshold inside the home to carry the weight of people stepping on it while passing through the door, Especially when it was a step down, to prevent breakage of the thin inside piece at threshold of door. Even in remodels, if the door sat on the existing floor, They would usually do the same.
I’ve owned my home for 16 years, and did the same… Never and issue. The economy and my injuries have lead me to have to reinvent my career and rent for a while. I moved into a place and the slider had what I thought was a hairline crack on that vynel piece and later broke again, I found out it had broke before, by the glue residue. This home is very old and the door was shimmed up about 1/4″ above the floor, and then the vynel stuck up about 1.5-2″, with large gap under it, to the old flooring. The piece eventualy broke again, and of course would not glue back in as clean as the existing break.
When we moved out I was going to make a piece of trim for the threshold that would hide the break and stick up a hair above the vynel, with bullnose on top, to carry the weight and hide the break, and fix for good. The landlord told me after 3 years of being excellent tenants that we were screwing him by moving ouut at the beggining of november because no one likes to rent at that time of year, however our lease was up, and we had outgrown the home, so it seems in retaliation, he would not do a premove outwalk through, and would not sign anything on final walkthrough only telling us, everything was fine and would return our deposite, he continued to refuse to give me a list or let me in to do anything and would not let me back in the home to do this. He is now saying WE broke the old vynel slider, and has had a quote for a milguard (which I am sure the other door was a cheaper home depot door) and is trying to charge me $1,750.00 for a new door as well as a ton of other trumped up false charges. So he can get money to upgrade his 1950’s home, to charge more rent, as rents have dropped a lot.
Can you please tell me if what I have always seen done is common, and what I have done for years for others many times is an appropriate way to deal with this issue. As not only does it look terrible untrimmed with black insulation sticking out under door at floor gap. But has no trims at all…
Isn’t it best to trim floor back to door when installing a door on old flooring if you can? Then trim appropriatly stepping out and down onto a covered porch area. As the step down almost forces you to step on the threshold everytime.
I really need some feedback on this as I cannot afford to pay for him to upgrade his home, due to a shoddy install on an old door, and as you know that thin piece grows fragile with time as it is.
Is my experiance correct? and is the solution a sound way to protect that high of a threashold?
As I have never been called back on any piece we ever installed, for breakage, and have never heard of the floor guys having problems when installing in this manner…
Thanks very much for your time.
Todd Evans
Custom Woodworker, and Master Woodturner
916-869-8045
shinobiiri1965@gmail.com

By: pamela erdahl

pamela erdahl — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:17:27 +0000

Trnsitional molding – room to room

By: Rodney Noriega

Rodney Noriega — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 22:54:51 +0000

In reply to Brian.

H Brian,

If installing solid hardwood, it must be over 3/4″ plywood. You will nail the flooring on the tongue and groove. This will not make the nails visible. Distance between the nails depends on the width of the boards. If up to 3 1/4″ width then you should have a 12″ distance. If over 3 1/4″ width then distance should be 8″-10.”

As for the trims, generally speaking the easiest way to install without nails showing is to simply glue it down (use liquid glue). You can also try face nailing it (if the nails are thin) but in my opinion you would be better off gluing the trims.

Cheers,
Rodney

By: Brian

Brian — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 19:51:09 +0000

What is the best way to install natural wood (clear varnish only) trim without the nails showing?