While trees do perfectly fine out in the wild when they get wet, your wood flooring material doesn’t fare so well when the moisture content is off. Use this guide to learn more about why wood moisture content matters during a building or renovation project. You’ll also learn how to properly check that the wood you’re using is in the right range for installation.

What Does Wood Moisture Content Mean?

Moisture content, in the simplest terms, is the amount of water that a piece of wood flooring material contains. For example, when a freshly sawn piece of wood is weighed, it may come in at 40-pounds. During the drying process, that piece of wood could easily lose 60% of its weight.

Of course, there is still moisture in any piece of wood that you intend to put down on the floor. In fact, even wood that is properly installed will vary in terms of moisture content with the weather, seasons and general indoor conditions. Since wood is porous, this is natural, and as long as the wood stays in a healthy moisture range, your wood planks and boards won’t look any worse because of these minor fluctuations.

Why Is it Important?

The concept of wood moisture content might not seem important to you if you’re buying wood flooring material to install in your home or commercial space. After all, that wood has already been kiln-dried in most cases, right? Yes, but wood moisture content still matters.

If wood with the wrong moisture content is installed, your floors could warp, crack, cup or shrink over time. This can lead to a dramatic reduction in the life of your wood floors. It can also be a costly mistake that could require replacing portions or all of your wood floors way before their lifespan should be up.

How Can I Test for Wood Moisture Content?

Simply inspecting a piece of wood or touching it with your bare hand won’t tell you much about the moisture content of that particular plank or board. To know the moisture content of your wood flooring material, you’ll need a special tool called a moisture meter.

For wood flooring, you’ll want to look for a moisture meter made specifically for wood use. A concrete moisture meter won’t give a proper reading that you can trust. Here are the two main types of wood moisture meters used for hardwood floor installation jobs.

Pin Moisture Meters

These moisture meters utilize two pin-like prongs and an electrical current to test the moisture content of your wood. These pins need to be hammered into the wood for a proper reading, so they can add unsightly blemishes to any wood that you are testing.

Pin-Less or Non-Destructive Moisture Meters

This meter type rests on top of your flooring material, using low frequency signals to test the moisture content through the depth of your wood. Since they don’t have pins that need to be hammered into the wood, they are often the most convenient choice for small jobs since you won’t need extra material for testing. Make sure the meter you choose is designed to test wood that matches the thickness of your flooring material. Otherwise you may get an inaccurate reading from the subfloor below.

How Do I Know What Moisture Content is Correct?

You’ve got your wood, your meter and you’re all ready to go, right? Here’s a quick guide to help you determine whether or not your wood is ready for installation based on the relative humidity of your region:

•   18-25% humidity: 5% wood moisture content  

•   25-32% humidity: 6% wood moisture content

•   32-39% humidity: 7% wood moisture content

•   39-46% humidity: 8% wood moisture content

•   46-55% humidity: 9% wood moisture content

Except in the case of exterior wood installations, where moisture content levels of up to 14% are generally safe, using wood with more than 9% moisture is not advisable. Reducing indoor humidity to around 50% is preferable.

Installation Tips for Proper Wood Moisture Content

Wet wood can wreak havoc on your flooring installation project and lead to floors that are warped, cracked or otherwise damaged. Here are a few tips to help you ensure that your installation project doesn’t get off to a slippery start:

Let your wood acclimate to its new environment.

This is particularly important if your wood was shipped or delivered to your home from a different region or even out of state. The best way to do this is to unbox or unpack your wood flooring material and leave it in the room where it is to be installed for 48 to 72 hours. Leaving wood in a space on Friday afternoon for an installation that begins on Monday morning is a great way to get started.

Know your area.

To properly measure wood moisture content, you need to know the average relative humidity in your area. You’ll also need to know what is a generally acceptable range for indoor wood moisture readings.

Test multiple pieces of wood in different areas of the room.

Some installers recommend testing wood planks every 100 square feet of subfloor. Testing near walls and areas more prone to moisture is also a smart idea once you have your layout planned.

Test both sides of your board if using a pin-less meter.

This gives a more accurate reading if both sides are flat.

Ready to dig a little deeper and learn more about how moisture can impact wood flooring? Check out our blog post all about the ongoing battle between moisture and wood in commercial and residential spaces.

You can also reach out to our skilled, knowledgeable representatives to learn more about wood flooring. We can even help you better understand the process of getting your wood flooring material acclimated to a new environment to make installation as smooth as possible.

The post How to Measure Wood Moisture Content in Flooring appeared first on Learning Center.

What Are Radiant Heat Systems

Radiant heat flooring is a thin floor underlayment that uses electrical wires or hydronic tubes to warm up the flooring installed over the electrical system, ensuring every step you take in the home is warm. Once you understand the basics, it is easier to select a flooring to use in every room. It is most frequently used in tandem with hard flooring that is van otherwise be very cold beneath the feet, such as ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone tiles.

Flooring Options for Use with Radiant Heating

When it comes to selecting a material to use as flooring over your radiant flooring system, it is all about conductivity. Tile, natural stone, and even vinyl can be taken to the next level when featured over a radiant heat flooring systems. Browse these suitable types of flooring:

Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

Ceramic and porcelain tile are a favorite for use with radiant flooring and are the most popular choice when radiant flooring is featured in a bathroom. For the best results, use radiant flooring with tile that measures three quarters of an inch thick or less. Thicker tiles will still work and conduct the heat effectively, they just take longer to warm up in the first place, which can be a challenge if you have a tight morning routine.

Both ceramic and stone tiles are excellent conductors, making it easy to achieve consistent temperatures across the entire floor. Tile isn’t just desired because it is ideal for use with radiant flooring, it is also incredibly durable and easy to maintain. This highly conductive material warms up almost the instant the radiant heating is turned on.

Stone

When you want to add a more natural element to your home, choosing stone tiles is another route to take. The different types of stones offer different levels of thermal conductivity. Marble is a good choice but it can take a while for marble floors to come to temperature. Choose slate or flagstone instead and you’ll have floors that warm up in a matter of minutes while remaining durable enough to look great for many years to come.  Because of the natural properties of stone, it continues to stay warm even after the system is turned off for far longer than ceramic or porcelain tiles.

Laminate and Engineered Hardwood

Laminate flooring and engineered hardwood have become popular alternatives to much more expensive wood floors because they offer a similar look at a fraction of the price. Because it is a man-made material and the manufacturing process can vary so greatly from one manufacturer to the next, it is recommended that you check the information about the individual product you are considering to see if it is suitable for use with radiant floor systems. Of course, if it just the look of wood you’re going for, wood-look tiles are also a fantastic option.

Wood

Wood is one of those materials that varies greatly from one species to another. If you are considering adding a radiant heat system under your hardwood floors, take the time to do your research on the various types to ensure you choose the best one for the job. Typically, the dense, kiln-dried woods are stronger and more conductive but make sure to choose a thinner design to allow it to warm up quickly. If you do use wood flooring in tandem with radiant heat, make sure to keep the surface temperature of the wood below 80 degrees as to prevent any damage to the wood. Bamboo, parquet floors, an soft woods are all options but make sure to check with the individual manufacturer for compatibility with radiant heating to be on the safe side.

Vinyl

Vinyl flooring, like laminate, offers a much less costly alternative to expensive hardwood flooring. The main difference is that it is waterproof, making it a flooring that can run from the front door right through all the rooms of the home, including kitchens and bathrooms. Vinyl flooring is typically a suitable choice for use with radiant heat but it is still a good idea to check with the individual manufacturer for any information they provide on the topic. Most of the time, the surface temperature of the vinyl needs to stay between 70 and 85 degrees with radiant underlayment to maintain the integrity of the material.

Carpeting

You can enjoy softness under foot while still keeping your toes toasty if the proper installation process is used to install radiant heat beneath a carpet floor. The main consideration is to choose an underlayment that does not provide insulation properties. For the best results, make sure the total tog of all the materials and layers used in the installation process does not surpass 2.5 tog or you will not notice the full benefits of the radiant heat system.

Ceramic and porcelain tile will probably maintain their status as the most popular pairing for radiant floor systems, especially in bathrooms, but that doesn’t mean that the choices stop there. This toasty addition to many home construction and renovation projects can be used with a wide variety of flooring types, making it easy to achieve the look you want in the space while still keeping it warm, comfortable, and inviting. It is highly recommended that you leave the installation of one of these flooring systems up to the professionals, as much care must be taken to ensure the radiant underlayment is not damaged in the installation process and that all portions of the system are working when that last piece of flooring is laid.

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Wood flooring has long been considered a luxurious way to bring warmth and timeless style to a space. This traditional flooring option isn’t usually considered an appropriate choice for kitchen design because it is highly susceptible to water damage. Before you count beautiful hardwoods out as a flooring option for your consider, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of the product and check out a few finishing options that help it stand up to the daily wear and tear of this heart of the home.

Wood Flooring in the Kitchen: Advantages

Hardwood flooring is revered as luxurious because of the many benefits it brings to a space. It is lovely to look at, timeless in design, and easy to refinish whenever styles change. Consider all the advantages of using hardwood flooring in your kitchen when deciding which flooring to install.

Appearance

Solid hardwood floors showcase the natural beauty of wood grain and make any room appear warmer and more elegant. Hardwood flooring can be purchase prefinished or unfinished and come in a wide range of different hues, making it easy to find a finish that coordinates with any kitchen design. If you have an open-concept home, running the same flooring from the front door throughout the living areas and kitchen can help make the space appear more expansive and cohesive.

Durability

Hardwood is considered a generally durable product. The thick and solid construction of the planks make it easy to sand them down and refinish them whenever they start to show signs of wear. Using pads under stool legs and dining chair legs will help to prevent scratches, dents, and dings on wood flooring in the kitchen. In particularly high-traffic areas, such as just inside a sliding glass door or under a dining table, area rugs can also provide an added layer of protection.

Warm Underfoot

When it comes to the level of hardness, hardwood flooring falls somewhere in between ceramic tile and linoleum. The warmth and softness makes it comfortable to walk on. Choose a finish with yellow undertones and it will provide visual warmth as well.

Refinishing Options

When deciding to use hardwood flooring in the kitchen, it is essential to finish the floors with a highly durable polyurethane designed to hold up to light spills and splatters. The same oil finishes you use for hardwood floors in a living room just aren’t strong enough for kitchen use. Instead, opt for a polyurethane designed to keep spills from penetrating the wood, reducing the chance of water damage and food stains. A polyurethane makes the floor easy to wipe up as well.

Wood Flooring in the Kitchen: Disadvantages

As with any type of flooring, there are drawbacks to choosing hardwood floors for a kitchen. Before selecting any flooring, make sure to consider the daily use of the space. How many people are in the household? Hos frequently and to what extent do you cook? Weigh all the pros and the cons of the product to see if it makes a suitable choice for your home.

Not Water Resistant

It is no secret that water and wood don’t mix. Prolonged exposure to moisture can cause hardwood flooring to swell, warp or even split. If there is ever a leak from the dishwasher or sink that goes unattended, a section of flooring may require repair or even replacement. Do not wet mop hardwood floors, as too much moisture can seep in through the joints and seams of the flooring.

Regular Maintenance

If you do choose to feature hardwood flooring in the kitchen, some daily maintenance will help them hold up. First, make sure to wipe up any water spills from melting ice or sink splashes immediately. Sitting water is the worst enemy of hardwood flooring. Protect them from grease or light splatters at both the stove and the sink by adding padded orthopedic mats in the areas you frequently stand to work.

Because the kitchen is one of the most-used rooms in the home, expect to need to refinish the floors somewhat regularly. Fortunately, hardwood floors can be sanded and refinished in the course of their lifetime.

Expense

Hardwood flooring is one of the more costly flooring options in any room of the home. It is often more expensive than ceramic tile or luxury vinyl flooring, both of which make popular kitchen options.

Alternative Options

You can enjoy the look of hardwood floors in your kitchen without any of the drawbacks by choosing wood-look ceramic tile or luxury vinyl wood planks instead. Both ceramic tile and luxury vinyl come in designs that offer the look of wood but they provide the added benefit of being completely waterproof. Cork and linoleum floors are also good choices for kitchens. Cork is naturally antimicrobial and linoleum is one of the most affordable of all of the kitchen flooring options.

Choosing the Right Hardwood Flooring for Your Kitchen

If you have decided on hardwood flooring for the kitchen, there are a couple of ways you can ensure the new floors will look great for many years to come. If you are choosing new hardwood floors, look for a wood species with a higher hardness scale rating. The stronger the wood species, the more resistant it will be to the daily traffic and moisture a kitchen sees.

Fir and pine are soft, making them a poor choice for kitchen floors. Brazilian walnut and Patagonian Rosewood are two of the hardest and most durable Consider the finish of the cabinets and dining room furniture and choose a finish that complements the existing colors and tones in the space. With so many different wood species and finishes available, it is easy to find just the right one for any home.

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Whether you’re installing hickory or maple flooring, underlayment is essential. Underlayment may not be visible underneath your beautiful wood floors, but this material offers many key benefits. Along with providing added support and sound protection, underlayment also improves durability and helps your flooring last longer. To get the most out of the underlayment, however, you’ll need to select the right material. Find out how to choose the best underlayment for your new hardwood floors.

Know Your Underlayment Options

Underlayment comes in a range of materials and thicknesses. Take a closer look at some of the most common types of underlayment for hardwood flooring.

• Felt: Perhaps the simplest type of underlayment, felt offers basic sound absorption and moisture barrier capabilities.
• Foam: This material is one of the easiest and most affordable types of underlayment to install. Foam underlayment provides a high level of sound insulation, making it a great option for limiting hollow noises.
• Rubber: This type of underlayment takes sound insulation to the next level, easily absorbing noises and disturbances. Thanks to its pliability and flexibility, rubber underlayment is also one of the easiest types to install.
• Cork: This material offers both temperature insulation and sound absorption. Since it’s made from a natural material, cork underlayment is one of the most eco-friendly options you’ll find.

Consider the Hardwood Species

Not every underlayment material pairs perfectly with each hardwood species. To find the ideal match, consider the type of hardwood flooring you’re planning to install.

• Cherry: This hardwood species is known for its warm, cozy hues, but you may not realize that it’s one of the softest types of wood flooring. Cherry works best with an underlayment that provides extra support and padding, such as cork or rubber.
• Hickory: One of the hardest and most durable hardwood species, hickory flooring doesn’t need much help to withstand traffic and wear. Hickory flooring typically pairs well with flexible foam underlayment.
• Maple: Along with hickory, maple is one of the hardest types of wood flooring. It generally works best with foam or rubber underlayment, as both offer a moderate amount of support and insulation.
• Oak: Whether you choose white or red, oak flooring is on the softer side. Both types of oak pair well with rubber underlayment, which provides the insulation and absorption capabilities white and red oak need.
• Walnut: This type of flooring may look impenetrable, but walnut is one of the softest types of hardwood flooring. Consider pairing it with cork underlayment for extra support and added durability.

Think About the Subfloor Condition

While the hardwood species certainly impacts the type of underlayment you’ll choose, don’t forget to consider the subfloor, too. Take note of both the material and the condition as you make your decision. Subfloors that are damaged or uneven tend to work best with the most flexible underlayment options, as these materials can make up for any subfloor imperfections.

If the subfloor is plywood, opt for an underlayment that’s semi-permeable. This type of underlayment allows both the hardwood floor and the wood subfloor to breathe without trapping mold and mildew or causing the material to rot. If the subfloor is concrete, choose an impermeable underlayment instead. This type of material is designed to stop moisture in its tracks and prevent water from seeping through the concrete and into the hardwood floor.

Evaluate the Purpose of the Room

In many cases, the room itself determines the ideal underlayment. For example, a condo or apartment on a higher level of a building may need a rubber underlayment which can provide additional sound insulation and vibration absorption and prevent disruptions in the unit below. Along the same lines, a family room or entryway that experiences a high level of traffic may need a cork underlayment, an underlayment which is more supportive and can boost durability.

Accommodate Radiant Heating Needs

If your new wood flooring needs to accommodate radiant heating, you’ll need to be more selective with the type of underlayment you choose. You’ll want to rule out any underlayment options made with asphalt, as this material tends to produce strong odors when heated. Since radiant heating can cause temperature fluctuations that may produce condensation, you’ll also want to choose an underlayment type that can handle moisture without damaging either the hardwood floor above or the subfloor below.

Mazama Hardwood – Handscraped Acacia Collection / SKU: 10082300

Assess Environmental Concerns

Whether you want to keep harmful chemicals out of your home or you want to minimize your carbon footprint, you’ll also want to assess any environmental concerns with your underlayment choice. Many types of rubber underlayment are made with recycled materials that make this option more sustainable than most. In addition, cork is easy to recycle after use, making it one of the most eco-friendly options on the market. Before you choose an underlayment, check the specifics to confirm the materials and the environmental impact.

Check the Building Requirements

If you’re installing hardwood flooring in a larger building, remember to check the building requirements for underlayment. Your building may require you to use an underlayment with a certain impact isolation class (IIC) rating, which absorbs footsteps, or a particular sound transmission class (STC) rating, which refers to noise reduction.

Your building may also regulate materials for safety or durability reasons. Before proceeding with your hardwood floor installation, make sure your underlayment choice meets or exceeds what your building requires, or you could have to schedule a second renovation project sooner than you had planned.

Confirm the Manufacturer’s Approval

Finally, don’t forget to confirm the flooring manufacturer’s approval. Many hardwood flooring manufacturers recommend certain types of underlayment for use with their products. You’ll want to make sure that the underlayment’s material, thickness, and installation requirements are compatible with the flooring. After all, selecting the best underlayment for the hardwood flooring ensures that your floors will look fantastic, feel comfortable, and last for years to come.

Keep the tips above in mind as you pair the ideal underlayment with your hardwood of choice. Once you’ve chosen the right underlayment, you’ll be one step closer to installing new hardwood floors and creating your dream home.

Resources:

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/wood-floors-guide

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/types-of-hardwood-flooring/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/5-hardwood-flooring-options-to-match-the-style-of-rooms/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/hardwood-flooring-installation-5-tips/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/what-to-ask-when-shopping-for-hardwood-flooring/

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Engineered hardwood will help you create an inviting and stylish space. (Jasper Engineered Hardwood – Handscraped Hickory)

1. What is engineered hardwood flooring?

Engineered hardwood flooring features a top layer of hardwood veneer over a plywood, hardwood, or HDF (high density fiber board) core. Because engineered hardwood veneers are made from real wood, and not a photographic layer, they have the natural characteristics of the selected wood species.

2. What are the benefits of engineered hardwood flooring?

Engineered hardwood flooring offers more versatility than solid hardwood flooring because its construction allows it to be installed in many areas where solid planks aren’t recommended (like basements). This is due to its ability to resist moisture and humidity better than solid hardwood, which might be dimensionally unstable under the same conditions. Many engineered options are also able to be installed over underfloor heating systems that would otherwise dry out and damage hardwood.

3. What does greater stability mean?

The instability of solid hardwood flooring is generally moisture or heat related. In unsuitable conditions, solid hardwood can warp, cup, swell, or split apart. Engineered hardwood is more stable because it overcomes many of these problems with its the multi-ply plank construction that counteracts twisting and remains flat and intact.This makes engineered hardwood a better candidate for installation over underfloor heating and concrete, whether it’s above or below grade.

4. How many layers are present in engineered hardwood flooring?

Most types of engineered wood flooring have at least three layers beneath the hardwood veneer. Some options have as many as five to seven layers. More layers provides greater stability.

5. How thick is the hardwood veneer?

The top layer of hardwood, also known as the hardwood veneer, ranges in thickness from 0.5 mm to upwards of 6 mm. Thicker veneer layers are priced higher as they can be refinished multiple times, extending the life of your floor.

6. What’s the thinnest veneer layer that can be refinished?

The top veneer needs to be at least 2 mm thick for refinishing to be possible; if sanding is desired, professional sanding procedures typically remove 1/32 of an inch. The thicker the veneer, the more you can sand it without destroying the floor. However, homeowners with engineered hardwood flooring typically find that they never need to refinish it as these floors come with high quality finishes. If serious damage occurs, its often easier to have the area professionally removed and replaced.

7. What is the Janka hardness test, and what does it tell me about engineered hardwood floors?

The Janka hardness test measures the force needed to lodge a .444-inch steel ball in wood to a depth of half its diameter. This rating is helpful when you’re comparing various wood species because it tells you how hard each type of wood is and their ability to withstand wear and dents.

At the bottom of the scale are species like douglas fir, southern yellow pine, and black cherry with ratings under 1000. Brazilian cherry and mesquite are at the top of the scale, rating over 2300 on the Janka hardness scale. Hardness ratings are particularly important in high-traffic areas.

Janka Hardness Chart:

8. What does it mean when flooring is sold in random lengths?

Depending on the floor manufacturer, lengths will vary. Some will provide boards of all one length, generally at a higher cost because of the quality control measures required. Others will provide boards of random lengths, indicating the shortest board and the longest board lengths per box. With random board lengths, all the boards in the box will fall in between those two lengths. Some manufacturers will note the average board length.

9. How do you install engineered hardwood flooring?

In general, engineered flooring can be installed in one of three different ways:

1. nail down if installing over a plywood subfloor
2. glue down if installing over a plywood or concrete subfloor
3. float if installing over a plywood or concrete subfloor

For nail down installations, the plywood subfloor should be 3/4″ thick, and a 15lb roofing felt or moisture barrier (such as MoistureBlock) should be placed underneath.

If you’re glueing the floor directly on the subfloor, use 100% urethane based adhesive with an integrated vapor barrier.

For floating installations, use an underlayment with a vapor barrier. Usually for this type of installation, the seams will still need to be glued together using regular wood glue such as Elmers or Titebond, unless the flooring is designed for a glue-less click-lock installation.

Please note, the above explanation is a very general guide. Always refer to manufacturer installation instructions for details.

10. What is the maximum variance allowable for a subfloor?

A well-prepared subfloor helps ensure a successful installation of your engineered flooring. The variance should be no more than 3/16-inch over 10 feet.

What other questions do you have about engineered hardwood? Let us know in the comments.

Browse our selection of versatile Engineered Hardwood Flooring here.

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When it comes to affordable and durable wood flooring, many homeowners are usually stuck between two choices: bamboo flooring vs engineered hardwood. If you’re on the fence about which flooring to install in your home, here’s what you need to know about making the choice between engineered hardwood and bamboo.

Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Unlike hardwood flooring, cut and milled into planks from natural solid wood, engineered hardwood is a hybrid of materials. The substrate or core material in engineered hardwood is usually made up of high-density fiberboard (HDF) or plywood, while the top layer is a hardwood veneer.

Pros and Cons of Engineered Hardwood

There are a number of pros when choosing engineered hardwood flooring for your home. For starters, the layers of engineered hardwood create a moisture blocker that makes the flooring more moisture resistant than solid hardwood. Because of this, many selections can be installed below grade. In addition, engineered hardwood is often priced lower than traditional wood floors and is much easier to install, which makes it ideal for DIYers.

On the other hand, the veneer on many engineered hardwood floor brands is often too thin to sand and refinish. This condition means that the lifespan of these floors is shorter than solid hardwood, which can be sanded and refinished multiple times. Likewise, the glues used to adhere the veneer to the core material can break down over time, resulting in separation.

Bamboo Flooring

If you picture rows of bamboo stalks lining your floor when you think about bamboo flooring, think again. Bamboo flooring actually closely resembles other wood flooring types, but it is made quite differently.

The raw bamboo is first boiled and steamed to remove the sugars and starches present in the natural material. Then hundreds of strands of raw bamboo are machine woven and pressed together to make the flooring. Bamboo is available solid planks, planed to a desired finish, or in an engineered format that features a bamboo top layer.

Pros and Cons of Bamboo Flooring

Bamboo flooring has a number of practical benefits. Many bamboo options can last upwards of 50 years if properly maintained, although the average lifespan ranges from 20-25 years with normal family wear-and-tear. It is harder than most hardwoods, which makes it extremely durable. Additionally, bamboo is termite resistant and comes in a huge choice of stains and plank widths. The cost is generally less than traditional hardwood and, like engineered hardwood, bamboo flooring is easy to install for DIYers.

However, bamboo does have a few detracting points. For example, bamboo flooring that isn’t properly boiled, steamed, and dried can shrink after installation, causing unsightly gaps. In addition, bamboo doesn’t have a grading scale like most hardwood floors. This lack of scale can make choosing a quality bamboo flooring brand more difficult.

Do Your Research

Whether you choose engineered hardwood, bamboo, or another flooring option, research and read reviews from other homeowners as part of your decision-making process. Create a checklist of the qualities you want in your flooring and make sure your final choice meets that criteria. Also order samples of the selections you are interested to see them in your home first hand.

If you’re trying to decide between engineered hardwood or bamboo flooring for your home, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of each carefully before you commit to installing new flooring.

Bamboo Flooring vs Engineered Hardwood: At a Glance

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Dealing with pet messes in an inevitable part of being a dog or cat owner.

It happens to every pet owner at least once. You’re late getting home, and your pet couldn’t wait. Or maybe they got into the trash and wound up with an upset stomach and ensuing digestive chaos. Whatever the reason, don’t despair when your nose tells you Fido or Fifi made a mess on your new bamboo floors. Bamboo flooring is resilient and more water-resistant than hardwood floors, and with these quick cleaning tips your floors will look and smell as good as new in no time.

Step One: Blot, Don’t Rub

Of course, the first step in pet accident clean-up is carefully picking up any solid waste, whether it’s vomit or excrement. Use only soft, nonabrasive materials, such as paper towels, to pick up solids; don’t use a pooper-scooper or other tool to remove the waste. Although bamboo is durable, you want to avoid scratching the surface in any way.

Once you remove solids, blot remaining liquids or moisture with paper towels. Resist the urge to rub the spot, because this will just push the mess into the grain of your bamboo floor. The best method is just to layer a few paper towels over the wet spot, and remove and replace them as they get saturated.

Step Two: Avoid Commercial Floor Cleaners

When the mess and moisture are gone, you’ll probably want to clean the area thoroughly. But avoid commercial cleaning products because they often contain harsh chemicals that can damage your bamboo floor. Definitely avoid anything alkaline or that contains floor wax, as well as anything with an oily base, because this will stain your bamboo floors. In most cases, just a simple damp mop or sponge is the best way to clean your bamboo floor.

Step Three: Deal With Odors

Let’s face it, many pet messes leave lingering smells, even after you clean them up. This is especially true if the urine has dried before you find it or get home to deal with it, or if a cat, especially a male cat, made the mess.

Believe it or not, your best weapon against nasty pet mess smells on bamboo floors is probably in your pantry right now. White vinegar is a natural disinfectant and odor remover, and it can be used on bamboo floors. A one-quarter cup white vinegar per one quart of water solution is a safe and effective alternative to commercial cleaners and deodorizers; you can also use hardwood floor cleaners. Use a spray bottle to apply a thin film to the area, or rest a slightly damp sponge soaked in the vinegar solution on the stain for a few minutes, and then wipe it dry with soft paper towels.

If you have pets and bamboo floors, pet messes aren’t your only concern. Be sure to keep your dog’s or cat’s nails well-trimmed to avoid scratches, and sweep and mop your floors regularly, especially if your pet tracks in mud and dirt after a walk. A little maintenance and prevention will help keep your bamboo floors looking beautiful for years.

What steps do you take to keep your floors looking clean?

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Step One: Trim Planks to Size

Measure each part of each step of your stairs separately. There are four important measurements: the tread (the part that you stand on) length and width and the riser (the back of each stair), and overall length and width. If your stairs are uneven in height, add 3/4 inch to the largest height of the riser and trim to fit. Do not cut planks too short! There is no easy fix for this besides getting a new plank and starting again.

For tread planks, you can buy planks with pre-made rounded edges to keep your stairs from looking blocky. Cut the treads large, about one inch larger than the stair, so they hang over the riser. Trim to your preference.

Step Two: Install Risers

Place each riser against the frame underneath. There should be three frame parts, called stringers, to nail to: one on each side of the step and one in the middle. Hammer two nails into each stringer. You can then use a nail set to punch the nails deeper into the wood.

Step Three: Install Tread

Make sure the tread lays flush and level against the riser. You can use wooden shims from your cuttings, like the ones pictured above, to fill in any gaps and make the tread level.

Apply construction adhesive to the stair, and then place the tread plank on top, squeezing adhesive as evenly as possible. Clean off excess adhesive, then nail treads to their corresponding stringers.

Step Four: Install Balustrade

This part of installing hardwood on stairs is challenging and often best left to professionals. Entire guides have been written about installing stair balusters, newels, and railings–more than can be explained here. However, it is important that if you are going to sand and finish your balusters as well as your stairs, you need to take care of the balusters first to avoid dripping finish on the stairs.

Step Five: Sand and Finish

Once the construction glue under the treads dries, sand the planks lightly, then sweep and vacuum away sawdust before applying stain and finish. Stain will darken your stairs significantly, while a clear finish on its own will darken them slightly, about as much as the wood would darken when wet. Choose a stain/finish combo that fits your home decor. Brush the stain, then the finish, on with the grain, making sure to wipe away any excess with a cloth.

Now that your stairs have been redone from top to bottom, literally, you can work on your next flooring and construction project. How about installing some hardwood floors to match your new stairs? Anything is possible once your inner DIYer gets revved up.

Is hardwood a stair flooring option you would consider for your home?

Browse our selection of beautiful Hardwood Flooring here. Add warmth and hominess to your space.

The post How to Install Hardwood On Stairs appeared first on Learning Center.

At a Glance:

The hardwood flooring industry generates about $2 billion in revenue as of 2015, according to an IBISWorld report. Although many home and business owners prefer the warmth and high-end appeal of wood over other flooring choices, bamboo continues to gain traction in the industry. When deciding between bamboo and hardwood flooring, take into account some of the differences between these two options.

Variety and Variation

Jasper Hardwood – European Brushed Oak Collection / SKU: 10096546                

Hardwood floors offer many choices for color, warmth, depth, and striations because of various tree species. Bamboo encompasses far fewer varieties, and although you can stain bamboo to achieve desired colors and tones, it doesn’t have the same breadth of variety that hardwood offers.

However, many homeowners prefer the natural variations that occur on the surface of bamboo flooring. The knuckle patterns lend the material a rustic and visually interesting appeal. If you prefer uniformity, however, hardwood might be a preferable option.

Price and Performance

Selkirk ENGINEERED Collection Engineered Strandwoven Distressed Finish / SKU: 15230514

The cost of bamboo flooring can range from around $1.50 to upwards of $12 per square foot, while the cost of hardwood flooring can range from $3 to over $14 per square foot. The price depends on the species of wood and the manufacturing process. If you want the visual appeal of wood at a lower price point, bamboo might offer a budget-friendly alternative.

When you buy bamboo flooring, pay attention to the installation system. Boards designed for a floating, glueless-click application offer the simplest method for DIYers to install, which can save you money on installation. Also pay attention to plank thickness as thicker planks offer more resistance to impact and feel more like solid wood flooring underfoot.

Most hardwood flooring is durable and reliable, even for high-traffic areas like foyers and living rooms. Exposure to humidity can cause this flooring to buckle and warp, however, so environmental considerations should take priority when choosing a flooring material. Below grade installations are generally not recommended for hardwood flooring.

Maintenance and Moisture

Both hardwood and bamboo flooring can incur damage when exposed to moisture. For example, experts recommend avoiding both materials in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms because of the potential water exposure. However, bamboo’s natural moisture resistance makes this material less likely to sustain damage from mild moisture.

To maintain both types of flooring, vacuum and sweep them regularly. Dust and dirt particles can scratch both surfaces. If a hardwood floor succumbs to scratches and dents, sanding and refinishing can help repair the damages. Bamboo, however, cannot always withstand refinishing. Treating methods for repairing scratches and dents depend on the flooring manufacturer, so consider quality carefully during the buying process.

Environment and Energy

Hardwood and bamboo both represent renewable sources of building materials. Bamboo, a grass, grows faster than hardwood, a tree, which earns points among consumers who make purchasing decisions based on the eco-friendliness of a product. Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified hardwood and bamboo flooring is more eco-friendly because it is confirmed to come from responsibly managed forests.

If your home needs new floors in non-wet areas, both hardwood and bamboo offer attractive, long-lasting solutions. Consider your budget, aesthetic preferences, and lifestyle to decide which material fits best with your family’s home interiors.

What type of flooring do you prefer the look of?
Hardwood or bamboo?

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If you’re planning to install laminate flooring in your home, you’ll inevitably need to deal with doorways. Whether you’re rejuvenating your floors in one room or your entire house, installing laminate flooring around exterior and interior doorways requires a few extra steps. Here’s a handy guide on laminate floor installation to help you deal with those tricky doorway areas.

Step One: Trim the Door Jamb

Before you install laminate flooring of choice, you’ll first want to trim your existing door jamb to make room for your new floor. If you’re removing old flooring, the door jamb may already have enough clearance for your new laminate. If not, you’ll need an undercut saw to trim your door jamb neatly and accurately.

First, butt a piece of laminate against the bottom of the door jamb and draw a line where the top of the laminate meets the door jamb. This line will be your cut mark. Using the undercut saw and a scrap piece of laminate for backing, cut the door jamb and adjoining trim away. If your new flooring doesn’t come with pre-installed underlayment, make sure you take the underlayment thickness into account when measuring your cut.

Step Two: Measure and Mark Threshold Flooring Pieces

Once you trim the door jamb to the proper clearance, you’ll want to measure and mark the piece or pieces of laminate going through the threshold. If your flooring runs parallel with the door, you’ll likely have only one piece of laminate to trim.

Using a framing square, measure the depth of your door jamb by sliding the square under the newly cut gap until the tool hits the door frame or stud. Measure on the inner jamb as well as both sides of the door where the trim is located. Transfer these measurements to your laminate. If your laminate runs perpendicular to the door, you’ll have multiple pieces to measure and mark.

Step Three: Cut the Laminate 

Now that you have the exact measurements of your door jamb gap outlined, cut your laminate to fit nicely under the gap. Since you’re cutting a notch, you’ll want to use a jigsaw with a low-profile blade. A manual coping saw will also work if you’re not comfortable using the jigsaw.

Before you make any cuts, make sure the visible side or good side of the laminate is facing down. Coping saws, jigsaws, and even circular saws cut on the upstroke, so the cleanest side of the cut will remain on the visible side of the laminate when cutting face down.

Step Four: Install the Notched Laminate

Now install the notched laminate planks in the doorway. Since most new laminate flooring uses a click-lock tongue-and-groove system, you’ll have to trim off with your saw the upper groove of the laminate plank that comes before the notched piece.

You can use a planer or a power sander to make your installation. Once you remove the joining plank’s groove, slide the notched piece under the trimmed door jamb and press the piece into place. Since you removed the adjoining groove, you’ll want to use a PVA Type 2 glue on this joint only.

Think you’re ready to tackle your own laminate floor installation around doors? If you follow our step-by-step guide above, you won’t let those doorways slow you down.

Are you planning a DIY laminate flooring installation?

Browse our selection of stylish Laminate Flooring here. Get the real wood look for less.

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