At a Glance:

The hardwood flooring industry generates about $2 billion in revenue as of 2015, according to an IBISWorld report. Although many home and business owners prefer the warmth and high-end appeal of wood over other flooring choices, bamboo continues to gain traction in the industry. When deciding between bamboo and hardwood flooring, take into account some of the differences between these two options.

Variety and Variation

Jasper Hardwood – European Brushed Oak Collection / SKU: 10096546                

Hardwood floors offer many choices for color, warmth, depth, and striations because of various tree species. Bamboo encompasses far fewer varieties, and although you can stain bamboo to achieve desired colors and tones, it doesn’t have the same breadth of variety that hardwood offers.

However, many homeowners prefer the natural variations that occur on the surface of bamboo flooring. The knuckle patterns lend the material a rustic and visually interesting appeal. If you prefer uniformity, however, hardwood might be a preferable option.

Price and Performance

Selkirk ENGINEERED Collection Engineered Strandwoven Distressed Finish / SKU: 15230514

The cost of bamboo flooring can range from around $1.50 to upwards of $12 per square foot, while the cost of hardwood flooring can range from $3 to over $14 per square foot. The price depends on the species of wood and the manufacturing process. If you want the visual appeal of wood at a lower price point, bamboo might offer a budget-friendly alternative.

When you buy bamboo flooring, pay attention to the installation system. Boards designed for a floating, glueless-click application offer the simplest method for DIYers to install, which can save you money on installation. Also pay attention to plank thickness as thicker planks offer more resistance to impact and feel more like solid wood flooring underfoot.

Most hardwood flooring is durable and reliable, even for high-traffic areas like foyers and living rooms. Exposure to humidity can cause this flooring to buckle and warp, however, so environmental considerations should take priority when choosing a flooring material. Below grade installations are generally not recommended for hardwood flooring.

Maintenance and Moisture

Both hardwood and bamboo flooring can incur damage when exposed to moisture. For example, experts recommend avoiding both materials in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms because of the potential water exposure. However, bamboo’s natural moisture resistance makes this material less likely to sustain damage from mild moisture.

To maintain both types of flooring, vacuum and sweep them regularly. Dust and dirt particles can scratch both surfaces. If a hardwood floor succumbs to scratches and dents, sanding and refinishing can help repair the damages. Bamboo, however, cannot always withstand refinishing. Treating methods for repairing scratches and dents depend on the flooring manufacturer, so consider quality carefully during the buying process.

Environment and Energy

Hardwood and bamboo both represent renewable sources of building materials. Bamboo, a grass, grows faster than hardwood, a tree, which earns points among consumers who make purchasing decisions based on the eco-friendliness of a product. Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified hardwood and bamboo flooring is more eco-friendly because it is confirmed to come from responsibly managed forests.

If your home needs new floors in non-wet areas, both hardwood and bamboo offer attractive, long-lasting solutions. Consider your budget, aesthetic preferences, and lifestyle to decide which material fits best with your family’s home interiors.

What type of flooring do you prefer the look of?
Hardwood or bamboo?

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R-Value Defined

A building material’s R-value refers to its ability to resist thermal conductivity. Higher R-values equate to better insulation; materials with large R-values keep heat from escaping the home during the winter and permeating it during the summer.

Your floors help insulate your home by preventing heat loss and gain underneath your feet. While a nonstandard flooring material like concrete features lower R-values than some of the more traditional flooring choices, it’s actually pretty comparable to ceramic flooring tiles.

R-Value’s Importance

The R-value determines whether a flooring material will help or hinder a home’s ability to resist heat loss and gain. While your home’s insulation makes the biggest difference in energy efficiency, don’t discount your flooring choices.

Flooring type and quality not only affect energy efficiency but also to some degree, thermal comfort. Have you ever swung your feet over the side of the bed on a wintry morning, then snatched them immediately off, say, the cold, ceramic tile floor? Materials with higher R-values also improve your comfort underfoot.

R-Value Ratings

The precise R-value of a particular type of flooring depends on the manufacturer’s specifications and flooring thickness. For example, one brand of chestnut wood flooring might feature an R-value of 0.975, while another’s R-value is 0.825. Additionally, R-values can be expressed both as typical R-values and as R-values by a specific unit of measurement.

Wood floors, such as pine, fir, oak, and maple, boast similar R-values ranging from 0.638 to 0.975. Engineered wood typically features a lower R-value (in some cases as low as 0.250); plank thickness plays a significant roll in engineered hardwood R-value. However, the type of underlayment used with a wood floor can increase the overall R-value considerably.

Tile floors, such as marble and ceramic, offer similar R-values when compared based on the measurement. However, because marble tiles are usually twice as thick as ceramic tiles, they offer greater protection against thermal conductivity.

Carpet, particularly wool and shag varieties, provides the best R-values among all standard flooring choices. For example, wool carpet rates a maximum R-value of 2.1, while other types of carpet can rate as low as 0.7.

R-Value Considerations

While R-value is an important factor to consider when choosing a flooring material, you must also consider your aesthetic preferences. For some homeowners, the sleek look of tile is more important than heat conductivity resistance.

You might also want to think about ways to make your floors more comfortable and less conducive to heat loss and gain. For example, radiant heating grows increasingly popular among homeowners, especially for tiled areas such as bathrooms. A radiant heating system generates heat from beneath the floors, making them more comfortable to walk on. Strategically placed area rugs and runners will also help you create a more comfortable space.

Consider R-values as well as other preferences when choosing flooring for your home or business. If your floors keep you comfortable, lower your energy bills, and please your eye, you’ll enjoy the space even more.

Is the insulating quality of a floor a factor in your next flooring decision?

The post The R-Value of Various Flooring Materials and Why it Matters appeared first on Learning Center.

An important decision in the hardwood buying process before you begin is deciding among the types and grades of hardwood to use. As there are many different options available, making the right choice relies on a variety of factors. When trying to decide on details like the grade of hardwood to use, it is important to consider the construction type, the species, the installation type, whether the wood is prefinished or unfinished, and basic style and color options to suit décor needs.

Construction Types

Solid

The standard thickness for solid hardwood is 3/4″. For thin profile solid hardwood, 5/16″ is the standard. The planks are sawn in one of three ways, which affects the stability and the price of the hardwood.

• Flat or Plain Sawn: by far the most commonly used cut. It contains more variations than the others.
• Quarter Sawn: cuts a log into quarters before it cuts the strips of wood to make hardwood flooring boards.
• Rift Sawn: cuts a log at a different angle than quarter sawn before it cuts the wood into hardwood flooring boards. Though it is more expensive than the other methods, it is also more stable, providing higher quality flooring.

Solid hardwood floor planks are made with a tongue and groove edge locking method which makes it easy to join the planks together and make a strong joint. One side of the board has a tongue and the other has a groove. The tongue interlocks with the groove to fit the boards together.

One of the advantages of solid construction is that most 3/4″ thick solid wood floors have about 1/4″ or 6 mm of wood above the tongue and groove, meaning they can be sanded and refinished many times. If properly cared for, a solid hardwood floor can last for generations.

There are some potential disadvantages of solid hardwood. It cannot be installed below grade or over radiant heat. Most experts recommend not installing it over a concrete subfloor. And finally, it tends to be pricier than engineered wood flooring.

Engineered

Engineered hardwood is made by gluing a real hardwood veneer to a core board made of either plywood or high density fiberboard. Because of this construction method, engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable than solid hardwood. In other words, it will not contract or expand as much due to changes in humidity or temperature.

As a solid hardwood floor alternative, engineered hardwood has several advantages over solid hardwood:

• It is generally less expensive than solid hardwood
• It can usually be installed on all grades, including below grade
• It can be installed over radiant heat
• It can be installed over a concrete subfloor
• It can be floated

The number of plies used to create the plywood core may vary anywhere from 2 to 10, and while a 3 ply board is not going to be as stable as, say, a 5 ply board would be, this difference is not enough to be a deciding factor unless the flooring is going to used over a radiant floor heating system. Generally speaking, the more plies in the plywood, the higher the price. A high density fiberboard core is more dimensionally stable than a plywood core.

There are three different ways of cutting the veneer for the engineered flooring that, along with thickness, has an impact on price. The three methods of cutting the veneer include:

• Dry solid-sawn: involves letting the wood dry out slowly with a low humidity level to keep moisture from inside the wood cells intact, reducing the risk of cupping. It is the most expensive type of engineered flooring, but looks and acts more like a solid.
• Rotary-peel: involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is scraped from the log with a blade working from the outside in and then pressed flat. Rotary-peel typically has a plywood-like grain and can have issues with cupping and warping to try to revert to its original shape.
• Sliced-peel: involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is sliced from the end and then pressed to create a veneer.

The thickness of the veneer ranges from 0.6 mm to 6 mm. The thicker the veneer, the more expensive the flooring is, generally speaking.

Refinishing Engineered Hardwood Floors

For people who are planning to refinish the flooring at some point, it is important to consider the thickness because, unlike a solid hardwood floor, the engineered type can only be sanded and refinished so many times. The thicker the veneer, the more times it can be sanded and refinished, however, it is still limited. Once installed, removing a vent to inspect the flooring from the side can provide an idea of the remaining thickness on the veneer.

Cannot be sanded & refinished:

• Engineered wood floors with veneer thickness less than 2mm
• Handscraped engineered floors, regardless of veneer thickness

Can be sanded & refinished:

• Engineered wood floors with veneer thickness of 2mm or greater

Note: Sanding and refinishing an engineered wood floor with a veneer thickness of 2mm to 2.5mm is best left to a professional.

Engineered floor planks are made with either a traditional tongue and groove edge locking method or with a glueless click-lock edge method that requires no glue and allows the pieces to snap together to create a snug fit. This is the easiest do-it-yourself installation method.

Acrylic Impregnated Floors

Acrylic impregnated floors have acrylic compounds injected directly into the wood, resulting in a stronger, harder, more durable wood. While these are more commonly seen in commercial settings, this kind of floor may do well in a busy home with lots of traffic. These floors can handle more moisture than the standard hardwood floor as well.

Reclaimed & Recycled

While not a different construction type, these wood floors are unique in that they have been made from reclaimed wood. The wood may have been reclaimed from sunken boats, from logs salvaged from lakes and rivers or from old buildings and reprocessed. This type of flooring is good for those who want sustainable flooring, and can be found either of solid or engineered construction type.

Grades of Hardwood

This is an interesting area for shoppers, retailers, and manufacturers. While the National Wood Flooring Association, or NWFA, has established a grading system, it only applies to certain domestic species. There is no universal system for international grades of hardwood.

It is important to note that grading typically refers more to the look of the floor versus the quality of the floor. For example, an antique-grade floor is just as structurally sound as a floor graded as select and better. The antique floor will have more of a rustic look to it with more character marks.

Many manufacturers create their own grades of hardwood, which apply more to the look of the wood than the strength, stability, durability, and quality of the flooring. When it comes to engineered hardwood, most sellers do not make grading information available.

Common Grading Names

When shopping for hardwood, there may be several different grade names present.

The most common grades of hardwood for prefinished products are:

• Clear Grade: This is the best of the grades of hardwood flooring because there are few color variations, board lengths are not widely varied, and there are little to no visible knots or pinholes.
• Select and Better: This grade is slightly lower than the clear, still presenting uniform color and little to no knots and pinholes.
• #1 Common: This grade presents with more color variation, shorter board length with greater length variation, and an increased chance of visible knots and pinholes.
• #2 Common: Boards show natural character, with darker and lighter boards, shorter board length, with an increase in visible knots and pinholes.
• Cabin Grade – Cabin grade is for those who are looking for a rough-hewn look in hardwood flooring; allowed checking, unfilled knot holes and wormholes, no splits, no loose knotholes.
• Shorts: This has the most visible character with many knots, pinholes, and color variations present.

For unfinished hardwood products, these are the commonly seen grades of hardwood:

• Clear Grade: As above, this is the best grade of hardwood flooring. Few color variations, similar board lengths, and little to no visible knots or pinholes.
• Select and Better: This grade is slightly lower than the clear, with uniform color and little to no pinholes and knots.
• Country or Exclusive Grades: This grade presents with more color variation, shorter board length with greater length variation, and an increased chance of visible knots and pinholes.
• Traditional, Antique, Character Grades: Boards show natural character, with darker and lighter boards, shorter board length, with an increase in visible knots and pinholes.
• Tavern or Cabin Grade: This has the most visible character with many knots, pinholes, and color variations present.

It is worth noting that some sellers combine grades of hardwood. For example, a floor may be sold as #1 common and better, meaning it is a combination of #1 common, select and better and clear grades. In this case, you will want to find out from the seller the proportion of each grade.

Prefinished vs Site Finished Hardwood Flooring

Prefinished boards are finished by the manufacturer, using several coats of finish with aluminum oxide, a surface coating that is the second hardest substance in the world, next to diamond. Special equipment dries the finish almost instantly, creating a durable surface for people to walk on. These are more expensive than unfinished floors, but can be installed in the home without having to worry about sanding and finishing.

Site finished flooring is unfinished hardwood installed on the site and then finished. These boards cannot use aluminum oxide, because by the time the finish dries (several hours in some cases) the aluminum oxide particles will sink to the bottom, therefore not providing a hardened surface for people to walk on. There are several other durable finishes and sealers to choose from.

Surface Texture Types

There are a few different surface textures available to help buyers get the look they want. Each one of the texture options below offers a different style to be considered for decor purposes.

• Smooth: This refers to traditional milled boards.
• Hand Scraped: This refers to boards that are distressed by hand.
• Distressed: This refers to boards that are distressed by machine.
• Antique: This refers to the boards with the appearance of extreme age.
• Wire brushed: The wire brush texture consists of a wire brush run over wood flooring, creating a rough, hard surface. The wire brush gets rid of the soft wood on the surface, making the floor more durable, less slippery, and easier to maintain. This surface also hides scratches and makes the wood surface look old, which some people like.

Species

There are many different species available to use for hardwood flooring. Choosing the right species is important as each species has different characteristics, colors, and grain patterns. Each kind of wood has a hardness rating on the Janka Hardness Scale which can indicate how well the floor may hold up over the years; however, any floor may show early signs of wear and tear if not properly maintained.

Domestics

The following species are some of the more popular domestically grown and processed: White Ash, Beech, Birch, Black Cherry (aka American Cherry), Hickory-Pecan, Sugar Maple, Mesquite, Red Oak, White Oak, Pine, and American Black Walnut, Sugar Maple Hardwood.

Exotics/Imports

The following species are some of the more popular exotics, imported from other countries: Bamboo, Brazilian Cherry, Bubinga, Cork, Cumaru, Spotted Gum, Sydney Blue Gum, Iroko, Jarrah, Mahogany, Brazilian Maple, Merbau, Tasmanian Oak, Padauk, Purpleheart, Brazilian Teak, Thai Burmese Teak, Brazilian Walnut, and Wenge.

To learn more about species, go to our species page.

Installation Types

You can divide hardwood into installation categories and you might want to select your hardwood this way, ensuring you pick a floor with the kind of installation you prefer:

• Nail/Staple down: Nail down uses nails to attach the wood to the subflooring, and staple down uses staples to attach the wood. Staple down is simpler than nail down. Neither nail nor staple down is suggested for novice installers. Solid hardwood is often installed using this method.
• Glue down: If the flooring is an engineered hardwood, it can be glued to the subflooring with a strong adhesive. This method is rarely used on solid hardwood floors, except for some thin profile solids.
• Float: Available in the following two options, made for an easier do-it-yourself installation. These floors are not attached to the subfloor and therefore can be installed over just about any surface. Usually, a moisture barrier and/or underpad is placed between the subfloor and the engineered wood floor.
• Glue-Seam: These floors use an adhesive to glue the pieces together.
• Glueless-Click: These floors snap together and require no glue.

Design Options

There are many other design options that need to be considered when choosing the best hardwood flooring for your needs, including: color, gloss level, finish, edge detail, width and length. For more information go to Colors, Finishes & More.

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The Janka Hardness Scale determines the hardness of a particular type of wood over another. The scale was invented in 1906 by Gabriel Janka, an Austrian wood researcher, and standardized in 1927 by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).

Depending on the room where the flooring will be installed, a certain level of hardness may make it a more desirable choice. Generally speaking, the higher the number on the scale, the harder and more scratch-resistant a wood is. The harder a wood is, the more difficult it becomes to saw or run through a mill. Surprisingly enough, though, this does not impact the price for flooring. Flooring prices are dictated by how readily available the species of wood is, rather than how hard it is.

Where The Wood Hardness Scale Comes From

The scale was developed as a means for displaying the results of the Janka hardness test. The test uses a 2″ x 2″ x 6″ piece of wood and a 0.444″ steel ball to determine how hard the wood is. The test figures out how many pounds per square inch, or PSI, of force, is needed to push the steel ball halfway into the wood plank.

Janka Scale Test Variables

When the Janka test is conducted on a specimen of wood, the results may vary slightly, depending on the grain of wood used for the test. For example, if the grain is flat, it is considered normal and is presented on the Janka scale. Though vertical wood grains are tested too, those results are not usually shown on the scale. Wood is also tested on the sides or ends because that provides a different hardness rating, but these ratings are not displayed on the typical hardness scale.

What The Wood Hardness Scale Looks Like

The Janka Hardness Scale starts at zero, with this option being the softest wood choice, making it easy to dent and scratch. Though no wood on the scale has this rating, a rating like this would not make for a good floor. The highest rating on the scale is a 4000, making for an extremely hardwood, also not likely suitable for flooring because it would be so difficult to saw.

How To State The Janka Rating

This is where the Janka rating starts to get confusing for most. Stating the rating is done differently depending on the country. For instance, in the United States the Janka rating is supplied in pounds-force, whereas in Sweden it is stated in kilograms force, and in Australia, it is stated in Newtons.

What Is A “Good” Janka Rating?

When choosing flooring for a home, having an idea of the Janka scale rating will provide buyers with an indication of how strong the floor is and how much wear and tear it will be able to handle over the years before it requires repair or replacement. Even still, a “good” Janka rating serves only as an indication, because it is not just the hardness that plays a role in the appearance and durability of a floor over time. It is also the traffic, the maintenance, and prevention that dictates how well a floor will look years after it is installed.

What Is A “Bad” Janka Hardness Rating?

Balsa wood, a wood commonly used in crafts, ranks at 100 on the scale, making it the softest wood on many scales. While this type of wood would not be used for flooring, it is easy to see why a rating of 1000 or higher is the standard for flooring options. No rating is really “bad” when it comes to flooring options, for the very reasons we’ve already mentioned.

A Closer Look At Oak Wood Flooring

Oak is the most popular wood flooring choice, but where does it rank on the scale? White oak has a rating of 1360 and red oak has a rating of 1260. Other flooring types rate harder and softer than this, so what makes oak so special? Most likely it is the abundance of oak available for sawmills leading to its mass production for flooring purposes that makes it an affordable option. The more affordable something is to the general public, the more widely used it is likely to be. This isn’t to say that oak isn’t a strong wood, as oak planks are an excellent choice for homes. Going strictly by the Janka rating, there are other choices out there for harder woods.

A Closer Look At Engineered Hardwood

Where do engineered hardwoods stand on the Janka Hardness Scale? They don’t, really. Why? Since these hardwoods are made with a layer of softer wood beneath them, their hardness cannot really be gauged correctly with the scale. Little information is available on how these engineered woods would fit into the scale because of the variances in materials used to build the layers of flooring from brand to brand. Logic and reason indicate that engineered flooring with a thicker veneer of solid hardwood would be stronger, but this may or may not be the case. To make things simple, do not focus on the Janka Hardness Scale when purchasing an engineered wood floor.

A Closer Look at Bamboo

Bamboo flooring, like any other material, has its advantages and disadvantages. That being said, the strengths far outweigh the weaknesses. Literally. When it comes to looking at Bamboo performance on the Janka Scale, all the best quality strand woven bamboo can be found at the strongest end of the spectrum. Promising strength and hardness comparable to exotics like Eucalyptus (4000 – 5000 Janka rating), strand woven bamboo is rated as one of the strongest materials on the Janka Scale period. Depending on the quality of manufacturing, the best bamboo flooring products can range from 3,800 – 5,000.

Hardwood vs. Softwood

Let’s take a closer look at hardwood and softwood in a home to demonstrate how care and maintenance play a considerable role in the appearance of floors years down the road. Consider two homes by the beach, where sand will provide the means for scratching on the floor surface.

Home A uses a softwood, such as American Cherry (950 on the Janka Scale). The owners take extreme care in cleaning the floor and keeping the sand from the inside of the home. Ten years after the installation, the flooring looks as new as it did the day it was installed. The residents of the home include children and pets, all of whom stay active. The Janka Hardness Scale may lead people to believe this would be a bad flooring choice, when in all actuality, it may be the perfect one!

Home B uses a fairly hard wood, such as Brazilian Cherry (2820 on the Janka Scale). The owners are not known for cleaning up after themselves and maintain a highly active lifestyle. Six years after the installation, the floor looks terrible and may need replacement. The Janka Hardness Scale may lead people to believe this is a better choice of flooring, simply because it is harder than its American Cherry counterpart when that’s not necessarily the case.

Can Softer Mean Stronger?

Don’t confuse the hardness of the flooring with its strength. The hardness serves only as an indicator of how well the floor will withstand wear and tear day to day, rather than how strong the wood is. Do not relate the hardness or softness to the way the wood feels, as this has no bearing on that aspect of the flooring. This scale also has nothing to do with how soft a floor is in terms of comfort.

What Does All Of This Mean?

Choose a hardwood floor based on its look and price before anything else. The bottom line is that no matter what, wood will need to be taken care of correctly to withstand the wear of time. If it isn’t taken care of, it doesn’t matter how hard or soft it is. If a decision cannot be reached, try using the Janka rating to gauge the hardness of the wood, solely as an indicator of how well the wood will be able to stand up to furniture, pets, children, and everyday life. Softer woods don’t always mean earlier replacement and repairs, so going with look and price first is always the best bet.

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Congressman John Lacey. Photo Courtesy of U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.

The Lacey Act, authored by Congressman John F. Lacey and first enacted in 1900, is the oldest wildlife protection statute on U.S. books. It was originally designed to combat trafficking in illegal wildlife, fish and some plants. The 2008 amendment to the Lacey Act expanded the scope of protection to include illegal logging practices, any plant, including derivative products and hardwoods, and gives teeth to the prosecution in terms of both criminal and civil courts. It is also intended to aid law enforcement by requiring importers to declare country of origin, species, and other pertinent information.

The amendment to ban the product of illegal logging was introduced on March 13, 2007 by Congressmen Jerry Weller (R-IL), Earl Blumenauer (D-OR), and Robert Wexler (D-FL) in the House of Representatives and then by Senators Lamar Alexander (R-TN) and Ron Wyden (D-OR) in the Senate on August 1. It was passed unanimously by the Senate that December, and the law took effect in May of 2008.

Most representatives of the flooring industry were behind the movement toward honest environmental action, and there is little doubt that the amendment to the Lacey Act will have a lasting and profound effect on every link in the chain from logging to customer. Enforcement of the law leveled the playing field for domestic production companies who had been forced to compete with lower prices generated by manufacturers and suppliers using illegally obtained wood.

What, Exactly, Is Illegal Wood?

The Lacey Act holds all parties responsible by stipulating that it is illegal to take, possess, transport, sell, or own illegally harvested wood or products made from illegally harvested wood. While the U.S. may not be able to directly enforce action against illegal logging, importers, manufacturers, sellers, and even customers can be held accountable. Civil penalties of up to $500,000 may be imposed, along with criminal liability in the form of a misdemeanor or felony charge of up to five years in prison. Severity of charges and fines depends on knowledge, whether a person should have known beyond reasonable doubt that the wood or wood product was purchased in violation of the law. The requirement of due care is expected. Importers, retailers, and even customers are expected to know the origins of the wood – and refuse it if the origins are suspect.

The law acknowledges that a company using a trusted supplier may be duped into believing a product is legal when it is not. In most such cases, the product would be forfeit, but no further legal action would be taken.

In addition to requirements that importers declare statements of origin under the new act, flooring contractors and retailers were advised by the World Floor Covering Association (WFCA) to protect themselves and their investments by taking the following steps:

• Require and include origin information supplied by the exporter in the purchase order form.
• Obtain written confirmation that the foreign supplier certifies that the fabrication material has been harvested in a manner that complies with the law.
• Document at every level all steps the company takes to ensure the products are legally harvested and manufactured.
• Include a specific provision in the purchase agreement that the supplier will “hold harmless, indemnify, and defend” the purchasing company for inaccurate information provided by the supplier resulting in a violation of the Lacey Act.

Sellers were encouraged protect themselves and their practices with similar documentation, since trafficking of illegally harvested products puts the retailers at equal risk to importers. Every link in the supplier chain should document the origins of the materials to the best of its ability.

Why the Lacey Act is Relevant

These laws may sound harsh, but the importation of illegally harvested wood products had been on the rise, and with it, the dangers associated with unregulated logging practices. The Environmental Investigation Agency estimated that 10% of the hardwood flooring sold in the U.S. comes from illegally harvested forests. The new provisions cover not only hardwood planking, but also most other materials that can conceivably be made or extracted from trees and plants— including materials used to manufacture laminates, glues, particle boards, and other kinds of flooring products.

This amendment places the legal harvesting burden of proof on the country of origin, but at the same time it holds importers accountable. The onus is on the supply chain to report suspected violations to the Department of Agriculture’s Animal Plant and Health Inspection Service, the Fish and Wildlife Service, the U.S. Customs and Border Protection or the International Trade Commission.

Enforcement

The passage of the Lacey Act Amendment was only the beginning. Continued enforcement presents a significant challenge and requires cooperation by industry as well as regulatory bodies. Exporters, importers, manufacturers, shippers, and retailers must all continue to be aware of the law and understand its implications. While the law was within the U.S. alone, it had global market impact. Other countries have already adopted variations on the Lacey Act to establish their own set of standards. The U.K. has undertaken a Lacey Act approach and global leaders agree that such action is needed and justified.

The Lacey Act Amendment was the first legislation of its kind and, according to a spokesperson from Greenpeace, “is the most important piece of US forestry legislation passed in the past decade.” As the largest consumer nation in the world, the U.S. hopes to use its purchasing power to make significant inroads against illegal logging practices worldwide. By making the entire supply chain accountable, the hope was that demand for cheap products produced by illegal logging will dry up in the face of unreasonably high risk. Current information is available at APHIS.

BuildDirect continues to be commited to selling flooring that complies with the Lacey Act.

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Sound is transmitted when hard objects, like hard-soled shoes, furniture, dropped objects, or even dog claws impact a hard surface, like tile or stone. Without anything to absorb it, sound waves can spread, multiply, and echo off the walls, amplifying even a small sound to a distracting crescendo with the right acoustics. Given a large room with high ceilings and hard polished floors, a simple walk across the lobby of an office building, for example, can become quite a distraction.

Sound Transmission Ratings

There are three different standards for rating sound transmission. Each defines a different way in which sound is transmitted. The first two measure flooring sound transmission. The third covers room-to-room transmission, more appropriate for walls.

IIC (impact insulation class) is measured in terms of sound impact, or how well sound vibrations travel through a floor to the room below.

IIC 50 has the least impact sound absorption quality. While this may be appropriate for ground floors, it would be unsatisfactory for most on a high floor without a great deal of insulation in the area between the floor and the ceiling below. Most stone and tile will fall into this category.

IIC 60 indicates a medium impact sound absorption quality and encompasses floorings such as wood, laminates, and some vinyls.

IIC 65 is a high level of impact sound transmission absorption and includes superior sound reduction materials like carpet and cork.

Surfaces and areas under the floor influence impact isolation class. Underlayment and insulation significantly enhance the IIC. The “loudest” floor is stone or tile laid directly over concrete. However, the IIC scale does not account for joist noises like squeaking or rattling.

NRC (noise reduction coefficient) measures the amount of noise absorbed by the material and not reflected. A room with a high NRC rating eliminates background noise and echoes to help clarify speech. Theaters, for example, are constructed with a high NRC rating in mind. Without it, sound waves would bounce off the walls and crash into each other, creating a cacophony of continuous sound, making individual words impossible to distinguish. Carpet, with an NRC rating of .40–.50 is the most efficient absorptive material. Vinyl, cork, and rubber have a fairly high NRC rating, with hardwood, bamboo, tile, and stone at the bottom of the scale for sound absorption.

Under the Floor

The top layer of flooring is only the tip of the iceberg for flooring sound transmission. Other factors include the underlayment and subfloor, plus adhesives and sealants used during installation. If used on a higher floor in a multi-story structure, insulation between the floor of one room and the ceiling of the room below plays an important part in deadening sound. Any kind of insulation packed between the joists will not only help to trap and dissipate sound, it will block the loss of heat or air-conditioning, effectively lowering your utility bills.

Installation Materials

The use of flexible acoustic adhesives adds yet another layer of sound dampening properties to the floor. When applied around the edges of the floor, flexible sealant is designed to fill gaps. For example, where the floor meets the wall, around doors or air ducts, blocking channels where sound can travel.

Flooring for Sound Reduction

Carpet

Number one on the on all counts is carpeting. By definition, carpet is the antithesis of hard, echoing surfaces. Carpet and the padding under the carpet absorbs and deflects sound waves. Sound absorption is further enhanced with a thicker pad. Carpet is usually the cheapest option in the short run. However, it is also the most problematic in terms of durability, cleaning, and allergy aggravation because it tends to trap allergens and dust.

Cork

Cork is a great choice for sound reduction. It does more than merely dampen sound, it absorbs it. Cork creates a blissful peace that everyone will appreciate, including downstairs neighbors. It is such an effective sound reduction material that it is used on walls to soundproof recording studios to produce clear soundtracks without background noise. The key is in the porous structure of the cork. Rather than bounce around, the cellular structure of the cork breaks up the sound waves.

In addition to the obvious benefit of sound reduction, c𝘰rk flooring adds natural warmth to rooms and a slightly springy give that makes it comfortable and easy to walk or stand on and may even save dropped objects from breaking on impact.

Vinyl

Foam-backed quality vinyl flooring has a cushioned, flexible surface, making it a good choice for a sound reduction. But, as with everything else, you get what you pay for. While you can install any tile over an existing floor, the material of the floor will influence sound absorption qualities. Top quality vinyl will help nullify that factor and provide a nearly soundless surface that has spring and give for comfort.

Laminate

Laminate flooring is a reasonably good choice for sound reduction with the addition of a quality underlayment. Underlayment adds a feeling of solidity and comfort to the floor. It reduces the hollow percussive sound produced by footfalls when laminate flooring is floated over a subfloor without underlayment. The underlayment pads a laminate floor much in the same way that a pad works under carpet, adding give for extra comfort and insulation for overall warmth.

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The idea of an eco-friendly flooring product, or really any product in any industry, must be thought of as being on a spectrum when it comes to how green it is. Put another way, there are some aspects of green to be found in a wide range of flooring products, with some types of flooring being associated with more of those aspects than others. It often depends on the circumstances, or even the location of where the flooring is being installed.

Why Eco-Friendly Flooring?

Logging Practices

Wood of any kind is a sustainable resource, due to durability and the ability to replace what was used. In fact, using a one-to-one comparison, a good quality hardwood floor can easily last for a hundred years or more, the time it takes to re-establish the same old-growth resource ready for harvest. The problem lies not in using wood for flooring, but in irresponsible management of forests, or the triumph of greed over common good. Poor environmental planning in the past has led us to the brink of crisis. Ecosystems depend on trees, and deforestation threatens some of the most delicate and vital ecosystems on the earth, like the rainforests that produce an estimated 40% of the oxygen we breathe and provide homes for thousands of species.

Today, legitimate logging operations have embraced the environmental issues. They are using responsible practices to maintain healthy forested areas with diverse growth capable of sustaining the ecosystem, but illegal deforestation is still commonly practiced in many countries. The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) estimates that 50% of imported U.S. hardwood originates from illegal – and environmentally devastating – logging practices. This wood is cut in one country, often the tropics, Africa, Russia, or Southeast Asia and exported to another, often China, to be processed before import to the U.S.

Recently, the Lacey Act was amended making it illegal to import, sell and purchase illegally sourced timber and wood products, including wood flooring.

Carbon Footprint

The phrase “carbon footprint” in general refers to the amount of carbon dioxide that’s released into the air during harvesting, processing, transport, and utilization of a resource. To measure the total carbon footprint of wood flooring, you have to follow the process from the cutting of the tree to the installation on your floor, and potentially beyond, if formaldehyde is used in the processing. Even some of the most environmentally sound and sustainable types of flooring can generate a significant carbon footprint due to transportation issues, since much of the flooring in use in the United States is shipped from China.

Global Warming Gases

The most significant thing to consider from both a global and a personal perspective are the emission of greenhouse gases. Some floor products contain chemicals that are dangerous to the environment and potentially dangerous to your family. Volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, are chemical compounds commonly found in flooring materials, adhesives and finishes. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that the air inside homes typically contains up to 5 times more VOCs than the air outside.

Some VOCs are suspected or confirmed carcinogens and have been proven to cause allergic reactions or respiratory complications. Symptoms of exposure include irritation of eyes, nose and throat, headaches, nausea, allergic skin reaction, fatigue, dizziness, and loss of coordination. Serious reactions can include damage to the liver, kidneys, and the central nervous system.

If you’re having a new floor installed, ask about the products and request those with the least VOCs, then make sure your house is well ventilated during and for a few days after the installation, just to be sure. Children are most vulnerable, so if your child complains of headaches or shows any other kind of reaction, consider staying elsewhere until the installation is complete and the house is aired out.

Making Green Choices

Sustainability is an important factor in eco-friendly flooring. Choices such as bamboo and cork are beautiful, durable, and easily replenished.

Bamboo

Bamboo is a fast growing member of the grass family that replenishes itself from the roots and is ready to harvest in just five to seven years. It produces beautiful eco-friendly flooring with the natural look and durability of hardwood, versatility of installation, and a rich variety of grains and color choices to suit any design aesthetic. Bamboo grows almost anywhere and is unrivalled in oxygen production, producing almost 30% more oxygen than a comparable hardwood forest area. And as also mentioned, the production process minimizes waste by taking post-industrial materials, those being the parings of the bamboo cut to make boards, and making them into yet another type of super-durable bamboo floors – strand-woven bamboo flooring.

Cork

Cork is harvested from the bark of cork oaks, and harvesting does not harm the tree – in fact, replacement of the removed bark begins immediately and continues for nine years until it’s ready to be harvested again. Cork is harvested without the use of polluting machinery, and most cork flooring is already recycled from used wine corks. For a truly eco-friendly flooring choice, look for cork flooring manufactured without VOC-producing chemicals.

Reclaimed Wood

Reclaimed wood is also a viable green option. Old buildings or homes that are being torn down often have gorgeous hardwood floors or siding that can be rescued and restored for new and environmentally responsible use. A little elbow grease and polish is often all it takes to refinish an old wood floor to its original glory.

Laminate

Laminate flooring can also be a greener option. Rather than harvesting slow growing or rain forest species, laminate flooring is created with a photograph of these species and produced with a core of wood generally harvested from managed forests. To ensure an even greener profile for your laminate floor check that the core material is harvested from forests managed according to FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) Standards. The manufacturer or retail salesperson should be able to provide information on whether your wood flooring product is FSC compliant.

Porcelain

Another sound eco-friendly choice is porcelain tile. Manufactured of recycled materials, porcelain tiles can be made using a combination of glass, stone, and even plastic. Tile manufacturers grind their own industrial waste and waste from other local manufacturers to refine the powder used to cast the porcelain. Choose VOC-free adhesives to ensure your family better, more breathable air.

Your Impact on the Environment

The good news is that consumers have the ability to impact the market and positively influence the environment by simply choosing eco-friendly flooring and other products made from sustainable and environmentally friendly materials. Consumers drive the market, and you can use your dollars responsibly to cast a vote for a better environment for your family and for the earth.

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