The 2022 color palette

When it comes to colors, designers and homeowners are opting for the lighter end of the spectrum across all flooring types, with an emphasis on neutral, flexible grays, beiges, whites and blondes, whether in wood grain patterns or multifaceted stone textures. The main attraction to this palette is that it opens up the space, adding a brighter and more expansive feel. It is also incredibly versatile, and can easily be worked into any decor scheme. In addition to this overall trend, there are some popular color preferences that are specific to each of the flooring types, which we will look at in more detail below. 

Trending looks and styles

Regardless of whether people choose laminate, tile, or vinyl, they tend to ask for one of five dominant looks: stone, marble, wood, concrete, and various decorative designs. Always looking for ways to create visual expansion, designers go beyond the light color palette and focus on innovative flooring sizes, shapes and patterns. When buying wooden flooring, people often opt for the wide-plank variety, while choosing larger format dimensions for tiles. Both of these choices help make a room look bigger. Chevron and herringbone layouts also create that sense of expansion, while bringing a dynamic feel, which energizes a room and can also work as an accent to guide the eye to a room’s chosen focal points.

Materials

In general, hard, durable surfaces are very much in vogue, with engineered hardwood being a particular favorite and laminate, tile and vinyl being almost as popular. Aside from their physical qualities, these flooring materials are in demand because they are available in an astonishing array of colors, patterns, and finishes. Manufacturing technology has advanced to such an extent that imitation wood, stone and concrete looks on these materials are more convincing than ever. This factor has certainly contributed to their rising demand.

Engineered and solid hardwood

Although homeowners adore hardwood floors, they are turning away from natural hardwood because it can be more costly. Engineered hardwood is an excellent alternative as it brings that natural hardwood appearance in a product that is much more durable, hardy, and easier to care for. Here are four of the biggest trends emerging for this beautiful, high-quality flooring type:

• Weathering and texturing: Homeowners and designers do not want perfection when it comes to wooden flooring; they want variety, character and texture. This preference has led to a rise in popularity of hand-scraped, wire-brushed and distressed engineered hardwood. These techniques bring out the grain pattern of each board, and create textured, undulating surfaces for a more natural look and feel.
• Wide planks: The taste for wider planks has been on the rise for some time. As opposed to regular wooden flooring boards, which are about two to four inches in width, wide planks measure anywhere between five and twelve inches. As mentioned above, these boards make a space feel larger and more expansive. They also create a more rustic atmosphere.
• Dark hardwoods: Although the 2022 color trend is towards the lighter end of the palette, there are some exceptions when it comes to people who choose engineered hardwood. Many homeowners who opt for wooden flooring want the warm and cozy feel that comes with dark wood. However, smart designers make good use of contrast in rooms with dark wood flooring, choosing lighter colors for walls, ceilings and other features. The eye is naturally drawn to the lighter parts of the room, turning attention away from the dark floor which serves to accent the brighter elements.
• High variation designs: Hardwoods such as Brazilian walnut are much admired for their multi-hued patterns. The eclectic mix of light and dark in the same floor layout creates a more natural impression, is quite an attention grabber, and will ensure that your floor looks unlike any other. Vary the width of the boards adds to this effect. 

Tiles

Realistic looks are the trend for 2022 – as much for hardwood as for ceramic and porcelain tiles. Homeowners love having the practical benefits of tiles – durability, easy cleaning, relative budget-friendliness, and variety – together with the world of patterns, colors and finishes that can be achieved with this material. Wood-look and stone-look tiles have increased in popularity over the past few years and remain extremely popular. Tile designers have done an excellent job of achieving authentic wire-brushed, hand-scraped and distressed appearances with their wood-look tiles. One rising trend this year is the concrete-look tiles. People love the industrial, modern look that these tiles create. 

Tile buyers are also looking well beyond the traditional square or rectangular tile shapes and seeking out an impressive variety of shapes, including hexagonal, diamond, fan, round, diamond, arabesque, linear and triangle.

Carpet tiles

Carpets remain popular in 2022, although they are used much more selectively than in the past, being used in certain rooms such as living areas and some bedrooms. Carpet tiles, in particular, are making a comeback, remaining the most popular choice for basements and making an appearance in other parts of the home too. Cutting and resizing carpet tiles is a great way to create rugs and runners, while the varied shapes and designs available allow a great deal of creative freedom for making unique floor layouts.

Room-specific trends

While the material trends described above are applicable to all kinds of spaces within your residential or commercial property, there are several developing trends that are specific to particular rooms in the house, such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Kitchens

The trends in kitchen design this year lean towards the classic rather than the contemporary or modern. The primary practical consideration is water resistance. Luckily, this property can be found in a broad range of tiles with numerous colors and finishes. The most popular materials include engineered hardwood, bamboo, large-format tile and several varieties of vinyl. Grays and beiges dominate the color choices, as do the prevailing hand-scraped, distressed, and wire-brushed wood looks – both in engineered hardwood and imitation wood effects in tile and vinyl. 

While many decorators want a stone-look floor in their kitchens, they are not necessarily opting for genuine stone tiles but rather for stone-look ceramic or porcelain, such as our Salerno Coastal Travertine collection. Wide-plank white laminate and gray hand-scraped finishes are the two most popular options for wooden kitchen flooring.

Bathrooms

The most striking thing about bathroom trends this year is the sheer diversity on display. Kitchen trends are relatively uniform by comparison. Authentic wood isn’t ideal for bathrooms, but people still want the wood-like appearance, so wood-look tiles are on trend. Instead of opting for monochrome tiles, decorators favor stenciled and mosaic designs, as well as a variety of geometric shapes instead of straightforward square tiles in linear arrangements. The popular wood look can be approximated with laminate flooring, which offers many different shades and patterns while ensuring a waterproof floor. Vinyl is still popular for bathrooms, offering high water-resistance and the incredible range of colors and designs we mentioned above.  
Founded in 1999, BuildDirect is North America’s leading marketplace for flooring materials. We connect homeowners and home improvement professionals with international sellers, creating a simple and reliable shopping experience and access to one of the world’s broadest ranges of flooring materials. Through our platform, you can find the flooring you love at prices that suit your budget. We offer a wide selection of top-quality flooring products across categories in solid hardwood, laminate, engineered, bamboo, vinyl, and tile products. Whichever one of the 2022 flooring trends you prefer, you will find the materials you need for your home improvement projects at BuildDirect.

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Flooring wood density doesn’t have to be particularly difficult to understand though. Choosing flooring with the ideal density and hardness for your space can also help ensure that your home or commercial floors look their best for many years to come.

In the end, a little research can save you quite a bit of money and ensure that you’re happy with the final results. Use this guide to learn more about wood flooring density and why it matters.

What is Flooring Wood Density?

Flooring wood density is all about hardness. To test hardness, the Janka Scale has been used since about 1972 in the United States. The test dates back to 1906 though, when Gabriel Janka, an Austrian wood researcher, developed it for use.

The test is a simple one that basically applies brute force to different types of hardwood to see when they will dent or show signs of wear. During the test, a 0.444″ diameter steel ball is driven into a particular plank of wood with more and more force as the test goes on. Eventually, the wood will show signs of wear and a final Janka Scale score is determined.

How Does it Impact My Flooring Choices?

Wood density might seem like a term that doesn’t really matter much or like some sort of scientific data point that really isn’t important for the end user. Wood density does matter when it comes to how long your floors are expected to last and how they’ll look over time.

With hard, dense flooring materials, you’ll get wood that is resistant to scratching and damage longer. That means that day-to-day wear like your dog’s toenails, dropped packages, backpacks and the movement of furniture will have less of a visible impact. Softer woods will show signs of wear much more quickly.

High-quality hardwoods can cost more than soft or engineered wood materials, but not in all cases. Depending on what style you’re looking for, both domestic and exotic hardwoods can be quite affordable.

When you do pay more, the initial cost is typically offset considering that your durable hardwood floors will likely remain in your home for a lifetime. Maintenance and repair costs will also be greatly reduced, allowing you to enjoy your floors a lot longer without having to go through the headache and expense of an upgrade.

Why Can’t I Use Softwood for Flooring?

Softwoods can be used for flooring material, but they simply don’t have the long-term durability of their harder brethren. Before long, they will show obvious signs of wear, including scuffs, dings, dents and scratches.

Woods with low hardness ratings are particularly problematic in high-traffic spaces like kitchens, entry areas, living rooms, family rooms and hallways. They are generally not suitable for commercial spaces either.

If you do love the look of a particular soft wood, you’ll need to find a place where foot traffic is minimal. A private master bedroom suite or guest room may be your best option. Hardwoods are still preferable in these areas though.

What About Bamboo and Engineered Wood?

Bamboo and engineered wood are two distinctly different materials that often don’t get discussed when talking about wood flooring density. That’s because bamboo is actually a grass product, while engineered wood is made from a combination of real hardwood veneer and plywood underneath. Some engineered wood varieties may contain other natural or man-made materials besides plywood as part of their substrate as well.

Bamboo Density

Bamboo flooring, along with other unique materials like eucalyptus, tend to fare well on the Janka Scale. Some types of bamboo flooring are even harder than certain natural hardwoods. That makes bamboo an excellent flooring option if you like the look.

Engineered Hardwood Density

Engineered wood is relatively strong and high-quality products can stand the test of time. However, engineered wood typically does not perform as well as the harder varieties of natural hardwood like cherry, walnut, ebony or oak. That’s because the lower layer of engineered wood is simply not as strong as a solid plank.

Still Unsure?

Looking to add high-quality hardwood flooring that will stand up to lots of foot traffic or a busy family lifestyle? Natural hardwood with a high wood flooring density or hardness rating is your best bet. Combining a look you love with serious durability, hardwood flooring can stand up to lots of abuse and continue to look excellent minimal maintenance.

Still confused as to which hardwood flooring material will work for your home or commercial space? Reach out to one of our trained representatives today. We can help you with your project from the planning phase to delivery, ensuring that you get the materials you need so you can complete your job on-time and on-budget.

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Types of Floor Sanders

There are several different types of sanders used for refinishing hardwood floors. All are available to rent at your local tool rental center, where you can also purchase sandpaper to fit each machine.

Drum Sander

Drum sanders are massively heavy beasts that generally require two people to carry. A large sandpaper belt fits over a rotating drum, which spins at high velocity and makes quick work of sanding a floor. A built-in dust bag catches most of the dust and debris, although you’ll need to vacuum thoroughly before coating the floor.

Drum sanders are powerful enough to remove finishes and stains, smooth high spots, and take the floor down to a layer of bare, untouched wood. If you’re not experienced with this type of machine, you can quickly cause serious, permanent damage to your floor if you aren’t very careful. If the sander isn’t positioned just right and properly operated, it can grind deep grooves and valleys into the wood. 

Orbital Sander

An orbital sander consists of a circular or square sanding pad that moves in a small orbital pattern. Orbital sanders are primarily used for finishing, because they remove little material. Although sanding a floor with an orbital sander will take considerably longer than it would with a drum sander, and it’ll require more sandpaper, an orbital sander is less likely to cause permanent damage to your floor. A square orbital sander can reach into corners and other spaces that a large drum sander can’t reach. 

Vibrating Sander

Like orbital sanders, vibrating sanders are used primarily as a finishing sander to smooth out the wood after using the drum sander. A vibrating sander is about the same size as a drum sander, and it also has a dust bag attached. However, it’s much lighter, and rather than a rotating belt, it consists of a vibrating sanding pad. This makes it much easier to move across the floor in smooth passes. Like orbital sanders, vibrating sanders are less likely than drum sanders to damage the floor.

Edge Sanders

Drum sanders, vibrating sanders, and some large orbital sanders are too big and bulky to reach into corners and along the edges of the room where the floor meets the wall. Enter the edge sander, which is a heavy, hand-held sander with an orbital sanding pad and a built-in dust bag. Because of its weight, an edge sander is as effective as a drum sander at removing surface material, but it can damage the floor if it’s improperly used, causing gouges and circular marks in the wood.

Floor Sanding Tips

Sanding a floor involves multiple passes over every inch of the surface. With each subsequent sanding, the sandpaper grit gets finer. Most floors require about four passes. The more damaged the floor, or the harder the wood, the courser the starting sandpaper grit should be. Here are a few tips to help ensure the best sanding job possible.

Sand All Rooms at the Same Time

If you’re refinishing the floors in multiple rooms, sand them all at the same time. For each pass, first use the drum sander, and then use the edger. 

Vacuum Between Passes

After each pass, vacuum the floors, even if there’s a bag attached to the sander. This will ensure pieces of sanding grit that fall off the sander don’t damage the floor on subsequent, smaller-grit passes.

Hand-Sand to Remove Edger Swirl

No matter how experienced you are with the edging sander, there’s a high likelihood that there will be “edger swirl” around the perimeter of the room. Remove this by sanding the swirl by hand with 80-grit sandpaper. Using an orbital or vibrating sander to remove the swirl will over-polish the edges, giving them a different texture than the rest of the floor.

Vacuum Thoroughly

Even the tiniest speck of dust can show up permanently on your floor once the coating is laid down. A thorough vacuuming is crucial for a perfect finish. Vacuum at least twice, paying special attention to the cracks between the planks and along the baseboards. After vacuuming, use a dry microfiber cloth to remove the finest specks from the floor.

Exercise Safety Precautions

Sanding can be dangerous if you don’t take proper safety precautions. Always wear goggles to prevent serious eye damage due to flying debris, and wear a dust mask to protect your lungs from fine airborne particles. Long sleeves, pants, and gloves will prevent your skin from being coated with tiny particles. Finally, keep all cords well out of your way as you’re moving across the floor.

When to Call a Pro

While refinishing hardwood floors isn’t particularly difficult, it’s an extremely involved and taxing job, requiring specialized, heavy equipment and the right sandpaper grits and coating products. Small, common mistakes by DIYers can have a big impact on the floor’s appearance once it’s coated. 

If you want a perfect refinishing job, it’s probably best to call in a pro. Reputable professional flooring contractors have top-of-the-line equipment and the skills and expertise necessary to address a wide range of floor issues. As always, do your due diligence before selecting a contractor. 

If you choose to go the DIY route, more power to you! Educate yourself about the tools you’ll need, including different types of sanders and applicators, and how to use them. Use high quality finishing products, and keep your safety in mind at every step. The more you know going in, the better your refinished floor will look.

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Hardwood floors are a sought-after flooring in new and historic homes alike. With so many different species of wood available, it is easy to find a flooring that enhances any style of decor. Whether you are looking to refinish original hardwood flooring or you’re installing it for the first time, choosing a non-toxic hardwood floor finish is essential to improving indoor air quality and creating a healthier atmosphere in the home. Many traditional paints and stains contain harmful VOCs. Fortunately, today’s focus on making more environmentally friendly choices has encouraged many manufacturers to create non-toxic alternatives.

Understanding VOCs

Many stains and coatings contain volatile organic compounds, otherwise known as VOCs. These materials are capable of releasing vapors such as formaldehyde in the home at a normal temperature. These vapors can cause, long-term health problems, especially in people that have re-existing lung problems or diseases. When certain paints and coatings are used in the home, there can be between 2 to 5 times more VOCs in the air inside the home that occur outside, reducing overall air quality.

Over time, exposure to high levels of VOCs can cause lung issues, nausea, liver damage, kidney damage, eye irritation, throat irritation, and nervous system issues. These greenhouse gasses aren’t just dangerous to humans, they are also bad for the environment. Lowering the VOC levels in the home starts by paying attention to the contents of paints, sealers, waxes, adhesives, cleaning supplies, manufactured wood, and upholstery treatments.

When looking for healthier options, you’ll find one of three ratings:

• No VOCs: these finishes are crafted from natural earth minerals and are completely free of VOCs.
• Zero VOCs: There are some substances with 5 grams of VOCs per liter or fewer that receive a zero VOC rating. While these are a much safer choice than other options, there are still some VOCs present.
• Low VOCs: This category of paints and stains can contain up to 200 grams of VOCs per liter, which is much lower than a traditional paint or stain but not as healthy as a no VOC or zero VOC rating.

Choosing a Non-Toxic Hardwood Floor Finish

A new understanding of VOCs and the dangers of them has encouraged more companies to formulate low-VOC options for stains and coatings. When you’re goal is to create the healthiest environment inside the home, choosing a non-toxic hardwood floor stain and sealer is essential.

Polyurethane

When it comes to choosing a polyurethane there are two main options, oil-based polyurethanes and water-based polyurethanes. Typically, oil-based polyurethanes contain much higher level of VOCs. Water-based polyurethanes are a much heather option. They dry clear in minimal time and produce very little odor. The fast-drying nature of the water-based version make it faster to apply multiple coats. Unfortunately, water-based polyurethane his a higher price point than their oil-based counterparts and can wear down faster as well. To combat this, simply reapply the polyurethane as instructed. As an added benefit, water-based polyurethanes are not explosive or flammable.

Hardwood Floor Oils

When you want to draw out the natural wood grain and coloration of hardwood floors, using an oil is a great option. Oils, such as linseed or tung oil, penetrate the wood rather than sitting on top of it. Choose a clear option to keep the look natural or select an oil with a stain to create a deeper color. Oils applied to wood floors results in a low-sheen look. Because there is not as thick of a coating as a polyurethane, the floor can be more susceptible to dents and scratches over time. While the oils themselves do produce an odor, the odor is free of VOCs, making it safe for use in the home or office.

Sealants

Historically, most sealants contain VOCs. Fortunately, some companies have started to produce a healthier line of sealants designed to keep the air in the home healthier to breathe. Make sure to check labels for environmentally-friendly sealants that offer low or no VOCs. Make sure to read the labels carefully for one of the three VOC ratings. Keep in mind that if the sealant is sold in quantities less than a liter, VOC levels will not be as carefully monitored. For that reason, choose sealants in a larger quantity.

Tungston Hardwood – Unfinished Oak / SKU: 10095300

Tips for Applying Your Finishes

If you have an older home and worry that the previously used floor finishes are releasing VOCs, start by sanding down the old finish, making sure the wear the proper protective gear as you strip away the old coating. Once the old finish is gone, test the new finish in an inconspicuous area to make sure you like the look. Once you see it on your specific hardwoods, it is time to coat the rest of the floor in the polyurethane, oil, or sealant of choice. Make sure to follow manufacturer instructions carefully to achieve the best results possible.

Making environmentally-friendly choices throughout the home will help to lower your carbon footprint and provide a clean environment for everyone who spends time inside. With a renewed focus on producing healthier products, it is easy to find low or no VOC options that provide the look you want for your hardwood floors while improving the air quality inside the home. Choosing healthy choices for the home doesn’t just include wood floor coatings. You can also choose non-toxic wall paint.

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Along with tradition, below are 9 reasons solid hardwood flooring is a great choice for your project:

1. Straight-forward installation for those with experience

Quality hardwood floors are specifically milled to ensure a uniform and stable fit. The choice between finished and unfinished hardwood floors is an important factor in this, of course. Installing prefinished hardwood flooring is considerably easier and cheaper.

2. Easy to clean

Hardwood floors are very easy to clean as they do not accumulate a lot of dirt, dust, and debris. A weekly cleaning procedure involves vacuuming, mopping, and keeping the floor dry. That’s it!

3. High-quality look

Along with an elegant, high-end aesthetic, hardwood floors offer the warmth, beauty, and value of wood, which never goes out of style. Hardwood floors are also said to enable a look of spaciousness wherever they are installed.

4. Strength and durability

High-quality hardwood floors that are kiln-dried, manufactured, installed, and finished to certain standards can last for generations. Able to stand up to active workspaces and heavy foot traffic, quality hardwood floors are tough, hard-wearing, and have long-term durability. Maple flooring is known to be one of the strongest, with excellent shock absorbency.

5. A great long-term investment

Choosing hardwood floors increases the value of your property. It is a great long-term investment and can actually become a strong resale argument, exceeding the initial installation cost of the floors. It also enables a faster sale and brings higher prices at the time of resale.

6. Variety

Hardwood floors offer a wide range of appearances. There are many colors, styles, stains, and species available, from the locally available hickory, walnut, and cherry hardwoods to the pricier exotic hardwood flooring options like Brazilian Tigerwood and mahogany. In addition, you can choose between pre-finished and unfinished hardwood floors. No matter how diverse and unique your needs are, there are many hardwood flooring options available.

7. Better acoustics

A properly installed hardwood floor never gives you hollow sounds or vibrations.

8. Healthy indoor air quality

These floors are a healthy choice for interior environments. It has no fibers, grout lines, or embossing that can trap dust, pollen, particles, animal dander, and allergens that occur with carpets. They are the best choice of flooring for allergy sufferers and contribute to healthier indoor air quality.

9. Ageless quality

When other floors will begin to look tired and worn, your hardwood floors will still look beautiful. And your hardwood floors become more valuable as time goes by. Also keep in mind that, unlike carpeting and vinyl, hardwood floors can be refinished rather than replaced when the finish needs an update.

Find out first hand if solid hardwood is the right choice for your space by checking out our stunning online selection of hardwood flooring and order up to 5 FREE samples straight to your doorstep with no credit card required.

What qualities are you looking for in a new floor?

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Now that you have decided that the structural strength, the old-world dependability and permanence of hardwood flooring board is the right choice for your space, you now have another level of choices available to you. Having options means enjoying a greater flexibility as far as the direction in which you want to go, but sometimes it can be a bit confusing too. For hardwood flooring board, there are several varieties from which to choose, and all of them have advantages as far as look and practicality are concerned. Here are some brief profiles of some excellent options you might consider when it comes to hardwood flooring board species.

White Oak

This sturdy hardwood was a mainstay for shipwrights in the age of the tall ship, being very resistant to moisture as well as being very easy to work with in terms of cutting and fastening. The use of white oak was common to the eastern United States, as well as in the Midwestern Great Lakes region, where many ocean going ships were constructed with this species of hardwood. White oak makes excellent hardwood flooring board because of its strength and general durability. The white oak wood itself is as descriptively light in color, with subtle touches of brown highlighting it.

Red Oak

Red oak was the workhorse hardwood of the Industrial Age, used not only as hardwood flooring board and for furniture, but also for use in making railroad ties and wagon wheels. This diverse usage is due in part to the wide availability of red oak hardwood, but also because of its hardness and adaptability to all kinds of household and commercial uses. Red oak is very easy to stain and yields a very good finish. Much like the white oak, it is very resistant to wear, making it a very practical choice for hardwood flooring board. Red oak wood is very attractive, demonstrating a pinkish hue in addition to its tonal range of off-whites and light browns.

American Cherry

American Cherry is also known for its abundance as a hardwood species in North America, and its reputation a hardwood flooring board precedes it in many ways. Known for its rich natural deep burgundy exterior, cherry is a popular choice for use as hardwood flooring board, but also in cabinet making, paneling, and many other practical uses where reliable materials that are meant to last. American Cherry hardwood is one of the softer hardwoods and while not recommended as flooring board for high traffic areas, its reputation as easy to work with is renowned. Cherry hardwood is an ornate yet dependable choice for your hardwood flooring board project, with a range of color that spans off-white to reddish tones, making it truly distinctive. Because of its photosensitive nature, cherry will darken with age over time.

Hard Maple

Sometimes known as Canadian maple, or sugar maple, hard maple is a hardwood upon which Native Americans and early North American settlers depended heavily. Not only important for shelter, hard maple was used for making anything from footwear to weaponry, and from soap to syrup. The hardest of all maples, hard maple is known for its strength as well as its very abrasion- and wear-resistant surface. It also has a fine, uniform texture. These traits make maple a great choice for hardwood flooring board. Maple hardwood flooring board is often available in a pre-stained form. This variety of hardwood is the lightest of all species of maple and is characterized by a range of light to darker shades of rich brown, often with reddish highlights.

White Ash

Another popular variety of hardwood flooring board is white ash. It is characterized by the density and strength of the wood itself, making it a logical choice for its use as hardwood flooring board. Among other things, white ash is a popular wood out of which baseball bats and other types of athletic equipment designed for maximum stress are made. You can be assured that white ash hardwood flooring board can stand up to heavy foot traffic! The color of the wood ranges from a blonde cream to light brown with amber highlights, a lighter range than white oak. The grain pattern in white ash is similar to that of red oak, but without some of oak’s pinkish tones.

Yellow Birch

Yellow birch has been long considered a reliable hardwood lumber because of its ease of use from the standpoint of builders and manufacturers. Historically, birch’s bark was famous for making canoes, and subsequently used for centuries in making all types of household items as well as enhancing interiors in many ways, including its use as hardwood flooring board. The yellow birch tends to be slightly more golden in color when compared to other species of birch, although it retains creamy white highlights. Yellow birch hardwood often features curling patterns in the grain that make it stand out among hardwoods. The wood is characterized by a fine, uniform texture, making it perfect for attractive hardwood flooring board.

Black Walnut

Walnut stands as a decorative hardwood which is widely used through out the world. A hardwood known for its close-grain appearance and dark luster when used as hardwood flooring board, black walnut is another product in flooring that is widely available in North America. Although not as hard as some hardwood species and not recommended as flooring in high traffic areas, black walnut hardwood flooring board is very accommodating in terms of its ease of use from an installer’s point of view, and as a building material in general. Black walnut cuts, nails, and takes to glue very well, and it accepts stains very easily. The wood of the walnut varies in color from light to deeper golden brown tones, and on to even darker, chocolaty hues, with grains equally varied from straight to wavy patterns.

Brazilian Cherry, aka Jatoba

This richly colored hardwood is known both as Brazilian Cherry and as Jatoba. Although it is not technically a cherry wood, it is like cherry in certain respects, and quite unlike in others. Brazilian Cherry is extremely versatile and is used in cabinet making, tool handles, and athletic equipment. It also makes excellent hardwood flooring board. The coloring of this exotic hardwood is very distinctive, characterized by a lustrous range of deep reds, burgundies, and darker reddish browns, making it an extremely decorative hardwood flooring board option with an exotic, high-end appeal. This hardwood flooring board is photosensitive and will darken over time, just like American cherry hardwood. The wood is extremely dense and hard, more so than many domestic hardwoods, which makes it a very reliable choice for hardwood flooring board.

Choosing the variety of hardwood flooring board which is best suited to your home or commercial project adds an additional level of ownership which can be enjoyed well into the future, knowing that the choice you’ve made reflects not only practicality and beauty, but also personality. After all, the hardwood flooring board you choose will define the living area or working area for a long time to come.

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For minimum fuss and easy installation, pre-finished hardwood is a good choice for those who wish to install their hardwood floor without having to do any sanding or finishing. Pre-finished hardwood floors are therefore ideal for the do-it-yourselfer who wishes to save time and bother, and who wishes to enjoy the benefits of a new hardwood floor immediately after it’s installed.

A valued characteristic of unfinished hardwood floors, however, lies in the uniformity of the finish. Pre-finished floors are by definition on a board by board basis, and the finish which seals the board does not seal the minute spaces between individual hardwood planks in the same way. With an unfinished floor, the finish is added over the surface of a hardwood floor as a whole after the boards have been installed. This offers a generally more uniform finish and a somewhat greater moisture-proof seal. Many subcontractors choose to install unfinished hardwood floors for these reasons.

So let’s weigh the options. If you are a homeowner who does not want to vacate your house and would like to do an installation quickly, a pre-finished hardwood floor is an excellent choice. You will not have to deal with the fumes of the finish, or the mess left after the sanding process. If you are a subcontractor, an unfinished floor may allow you to deliver a more uniform finish on the whole floor, along with the added moisture protection the overall sealing process provides. In either case, the beautiful look and feel of the hardwood floor, along with the added structural benefits to your house or office building are certainly benefits you can enjoy for a very long time.

Unfinished Red Oak Flooring

Prefinished Red Oak Flooring

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Hardwood floors mean more than choosing a wood, grabbing some boards, and installing them in the room. Beyond the floor, people must take time to consider the various moldings or trims and accessories they will need to finish the look they are going for. Without moldings, trims and transition pieces, a hardwood floor job can look unfinished, drawing away from the beauty it adds to a room.

If installing a prefinished floor, most of them come with their own matching trim pieces to complete the job. Using an unfinished hardwood requires separate staining of unfinished molding and trim pieces in order to match the finished floor.

If installing engineered wood floors, you must also consider whether or not you’ll be using underlay and, if so, what the best choice is.

You may also need to consider what adhesive to use if going with either a glue-down installation (engineered wood or thin profile solid) or a floating glue-seam installation.

Moldings, Trim & Transitions

There are several different moldings and trim options designed to fit any flooring need. When installing hardwood floors, the following moldings may be required in order to complete the job:

• T-Molding: This molding is most commonly seen as a transition between a tiled floor and a wood floor, though it is also used to connect one wood floor to another.
• Reducer/One-Sided Reducer/Flush Reducer: This molding is typically used to level the flooring when connected to a floor with a lower height. It is also being used as a design element around fireplaces.
• Overlap Reducer: This molding is used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and with floors of a lower height.
• Bi-level Reducer: This molding is used with solid hardwood floors to transition to carpet or other floors of a lower height.
• Baby Threshold/Threshold: This molding is used in areas where expansion is required, such as with sliding glass doors, but can also be used with carpet.
• End Cap/Square Nose: This can be used similarly to a baby threshold molding.
• Overlap Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is typically used with floating steps where expansion may be required.
• Flush/Square Edge Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is used as a transition for stairs.
• Quarter Round: This is commonly used around baseboards and fixed objects throughout a room.
• Shoe Edge Molding: This works just as quarter round molding, but does so with a smaller profile.
• Baseboard/Wall Base: This is used around the base of all walls in the room to cover the expansion gap space the flooring needs to breathe.

Underlayment

Underlayment serves as the barrier between the hardwood flooring and the subfloor. It is used primarily with engineered wood floors. Solid hardwood floors typically only use rosin/felt paper as an underlayment.

Depending on the type of underlayment, its purpose is to provide cushion between the floor and the subfloor, muffle sound (important for above ground installations) and/or block moisture from getting to the hardwood floor (especially important when installing over a concrete subfloor).

• Basic Foam: This is available in several different types, based on the manufacturer. Essentially, this is a layer of foam to be used with concrete floors with at or below grade level installations. It may come with a plastic layer as a moisture barrier or with an additional layer of sticky material to aid with installation.
• Sound Choice: This is an eco-friendly underlayment option that provides insulation to the flooring. It will reduce the noise associated with walking on wood floors while also working to keep the floors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It has a vapor barrier to keep water from reaching the flooring as well.
• Floor Muffler: This will reduce the amount of noise produced by walking on the floors, but is not an eco-friendly product because it is completely synthetic.
• Cork: This is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a green underlayment option. It will work wonders to reduce the sounds from walking while also protecting the floor from moisture. It can be used for floating installations just laid over the subfloor, or it can be glued down.
• Proflex: This is an alternative to cork, but since it is used mainly with high rise buildings, it is suggested builders get approval with the appropriate homeowners association before using it. Commonly seen with concrete subfloors, this option both reduces moisture risk and sound from walking. It is pressed down with a peel off tape rather than glued down.
• Plastic Sheathing: A plastic sheet can be used on underneath whatever underlayment choice to add moisture protection. This option doesn’t provide much, if any, sound proofing.
• Vinyl: As with plastic, vinyl is an excellent option for moisture protection, but not so much for sound proofing.
• Rosin/Felt Paper: This type of underlayment does not provide a moisture barrier, or much sound proofing. This material was laid down when solid hardwood floors were being installed, to prevent drywall dust and other particles from getting to the installer’s eyes.

Adhesives

Solid hardwood floors that are ¾” thick must be nailed down to the subfloor. However, thin profile solids and many engineered hardwood floors may need to be glued down. Glue-seam floating engineered floors require adhesive to bond the tongue and groove edges together. There are many choices of adhesives available and it is important to choose the right one.

• Urethane Adhesives: These are the most commonly used adhesives for engineered and thin profile hardwood floor installations today. There are several different options out there, though they are not too environmentally friendly. It is important to check to ensure no adhesive is left anywhere on the wood after the installation and again in the proper day light. The adhesive can be cleaned up using mineral spirits.
• Water Based Adhesives: These adhesives are only to be used with engineered wood floors and are the best option for those who are concerned with environmental and health issues, though they do not always provide the best quality adhesion. Powder based adhesives are also available to mix with water. A damp cloth can be used to clean the adhesive before it sets. If it is fully cured, use mineral spirits.
• Floating Floor Glues: Many manufacturers make their own floating floor glues to be used to glue the seams of with their products. Each type of glue will have its own guidelines and recommendations for installation. These can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before the glue sets. Afterward, be careful when it comes to scraping the glue off other surfaces.

The best approach is to choosing the right adhesive is to follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Important Note: If using mineral spirits to clean up adhesive, ensure proper ventilation and perform away from any heat or flame sources.

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Selecting a Hardwood Species

Alder – Alder is a very light brown wood with a yellow or pink tinge with a fine grain and smooth texture. It is one of the fastest growing hardwood species, fully maturing in just 10 – 15 years, making it a sustainable, eco-friendly material. Due to its light color and ability to absorb stain well, alder can be stained to resemble almost any kind of wood, creating an expensive look at a fraction of the cost. Alder measures 590 on the Janka Hardness scale. It is among the softer hardwoods available for flooring. Alder is a popular choice for “shabby chic” décor.

Ash, White – Ash trees belong to the olive family but do not produce edible fruit. Its color ranges from a lustrous white to a rich cream or very pale tan. A popular choice in flooring, white ash has a distinct grain resembling oak with twisted, interwoven burl patterning. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1320 gives ash a very good overall strength, excellent shock resistance and good tensile strength for a long-lasting floor that can withstand a lot of traffic.

Beech – Beech is a hardwood species with great color variation from reddish brown heartwood to creamy white sapwood, presented in distinctive streaks and whorls throughout the wood. It has a tight grain and a smooth, uniform texture. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1300 indicates durability and strength.

Birch – There are many species of birch, each with its own color variations. Yellow birch is most commonly used for flooring. Yellow birch coloring ranges from a cream or light brown sapwood to a light brown or reddish heartwood, causing noticeable but not dramatic color variation. It is tightly grained with straight, curly or wavy patterns. It can be stained with a convincing mahogany or walnut finish. Birch measures 1260 on the Janka Hardness scale, just slighter softer than red oak which measures 1290.

Bubinga – Bubinga is a striking wood grown in Africa with a deep, rich reddish color variegated with darker streaks and grain patterns. The grain is fine and well-defined for a beautiful rustic appearance. Bubinga rates 2690 on the Janka Hardness scale, an exceptionally hard and durable material for a floor that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic.

Cherry, American (aka Black) – Cherry, sometimes called fruitwood, is grown in the eastern United States. The wood is a light to medium reddish –brown with a tight, often wavy grain and a satiny, lustrous finish. The Janka Hardness scale rating of American cherry is 950, making this one of the softest hardwoods; however, its dimensional stability is 7.1, above average.

Cherry, Brazilian (aka Jatoba) – Brazilian cherry is a medium hued reddish wood with darker streaks and a course grain texture. Rated 2820 on the Janka Hardness scale, Brazilian cherry is an exceptionally hard and durable flooring material that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic.

Cypress, Australian – Australian Cypress is similar to pine in appearance; a honey gold wood with light cream sapwood and wavy dark brown streaks and knots offering a lot of patterning and contrast, ideal for creating a rustic look. Rated 1375 on the Janka Hardness scale, it has excellent durability and dimensional stability.

Hickory – Hickory ranges in color from the medium tan or a light reddish brown of the heartwood to the creamy white of the sapwood. The closed grain is figured with fine straight or wavy lines and the unfinished wood is rough to the touch. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Hickory has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

Kempas – Heartwood ranges in color from orange red to reddish brown without much contrast or grain definition. Sapwood is pale yellow to white with a high luster and an interlocked or spiral grain. It has a coarse texture and a Janka Hardness scale rating of 1710, but a low stability rating.

Mahogany, Asian (aka Keruing) – Keruing is a general name assigned to wood from more than 70 different species of Dipterocarpus native to Southeast Asia whose wood is nearly indistinguishable. Color varies from pinkish-brown to dark brown without significant contrast. The texture is coarse and the grain shallowly interlocked or straight. It rates 1270 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it similar in hardness to red oak.

Mahogany, Santos – Santos Mahogany is a hardwood indigenous to the tropical forests of South America. The color is a rich dark reddish brown with darker striations and fine, oily texture. Grain is straight or wavy and contrast coloring is low but pronounced. It rates high on the Janka Hardness scale at 2200, indicating excellent durability and strength.

Maple, Hard (aka Sugar) – Hard Maple, also known as sugar maple, is common to North America and wood ranges in color from creamy white to light reddish brown through both heartwood and sapwood. The wood shows medium figuring of the grain with rare occurrences of quilted, fiddleback, or bird’s-eye detailing, which is usually sold at a premium. Hard Maple rates above average on the Janka Hardness scale at 1450.

Merbau – Merbau is a hardwood indigenous to Indonesia, Malaysia, and Papua New Guinea. The wood is highly prized for its rich, lustrous brown or dark reddish brown color that is sometimes sprinkled with flecks of pale gold. The grain pattern can be interlocked, wavy, or straight. Merbau is a structurally stable wood with a rating of 1925 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it an exceptionally hard and durable surface.

Mesquite – Mesquite is a deciduous tree found in north Mexico and across the southwest and Midwestern United States. Wood color ranges from light brown to dark reddish brown with ingrown mineral streaks. Color variations are tonally moderate, but visually distinctive. Mesquite is a very durable wood with a rating of 2345 on the Janka Hardness scale.

Oak, Red – Red Oak is a general term used for more than 200 subspecies common to North America, differentiated by color variation. There is little difference in color between sapwood and heartwood. The wood is light in color and reddish in tone. The grain is open and coarse with a tight grain pattern. Quarter sawn lumber can have a flake pattern, also known as butterflies of tiger rays. Northern Red Oak scores a 1290 on the Janka hardness scale and is the benchmark average rating. Southern red oak is slightly softer, scoring 1060 on the Janka scale.

Oak, White – White oak heartwood is pale brown in color and may have a pinkish or slightly silver/gray cast. Sapwood is light cream to white with low color variation. The grain is open with rays longer than that found in red oak with occasional swirls, burls and tight knots. White oak is slightly softer than the median and rates 1210 on the Janka hardness scale.

Padauk – Padauk is considered an exotic hardwood indigenous to Central and West Africa. The heartwood is a dark, rich reddish or purplish brown or black with little variation in color. The grain is straight or interlocked and the texture is coarse. Padauk rates 1725 on the Janka hardness scale and is exceptionally strong and stable.

Pecan – Pecan wood ranges in color from the reddish brown with dark brown streaks of the heartwood to the creamy pinkish white of the sapwood. The grain is open with straight, wavy or irregular lines. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Pecan has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

Pine (aka Southern Yellow) – Southern Yellow Pine is the wood from several evergreen species common to the southern regions of the United States. The heartwood is light yellow to yellowish brown and can have an orange cast. Sapwood is yellowish white to pale tan. The closed grain has prominent and distinctive figuring patterns and knots are common. It is softer than the median on the Janka hardness scale, falling between 690 and 870 depending on species.

Pine, Heart – The term heart pine is usually used to describe wood that has been reclaimed and recycled from old buildings. Its color is warm reddish brown with pale yellow sapwood and some black sap staining. Heart pine is a dense wood with a high degree of figuring. The grain pattern is usually either swirled or straight lines close together like pinstripes depending on the method used to saw. Heart pine rates a median value of 1225 on the Janka hardness scale, but dimensional stability can vary with the species, age and prior usage of the wood.

Sapele – Sapele is an exotic hardwood similar in many ways to mahogany. It is indigenous to Africa. The wood is a dark, rich, reddish brown with a fine, interlocked grain. With an above average Janka rating of 1500 and exceptional dimensional stability, Sapele offers more durability than a true mahogany and compares to oak in strength and wear.

Teak, Brazilian (aka Cumaru) – Indigenous to South America, Brazilian teak is one of the hardest wood species in the world. It is a fairly uniform light to medium brown and may have a yellow cast. The grain is fine and interlocked, and the wood feels waxy or oily to the touch. Brazilian teak rates 3540 on the Janka hardness scale and has above average dimensional stability, making it an extremely durable and long-lasting flooring material.

Teak, True – True teak is native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia and is grown in Central America and parts of South America. Color range is a medium golden brown with streaks of darker brown. The grain may be wavy or straight, and the texture of the wood is coarse and oily with a dull luster. True teak measures 1000 – 1155, relatively low on the Janka hardness scale, making it a softer wood than most hardwoods.

Tigerwood – Tigerwood grows naturally in the in the neotropical forests of Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Guatemala and Mexico. Color ranges from a pale cream to a rich reddish-orange hue in the dramatic streaking pattern that gives the wood its name. Tigerwood has an irregular grain that may be mottled, wavy or interlocked and a fine texture with a medium to dull luster. Tigerwood measures 1850 on the Janka hardness scale and is a heavy, stable flooring material.

Walnut, American Black – American black walnut is indigenous and common to North America. Wood color ranges from rich dark brown to black with a purple cast. There is a dramatic difference between the heartwood and the white to light tan sapwood. Flooring manufacturers often darken the sapwood by bleeding the heartwood color into the sapwood by steaming the wood. The grain is open and straight, and can have curly or burled figure. American black walnut has a Janka hardness rating of 1010, softer than red oak.

Walnut, Brazilian (aka Ipe) – Brazilian walnut is indigenous to South America. Color is a medium to very dark brownish black with little variation. The grain is fine to medium, straight, wavy or irregular. Wood is heavy, solid and oily, and the Janka scale rating is 3680 with above average stability, making Ipe (pronounced “e-pay”) the hardest and most durable wood available.

Wenge – Wenge is lumber from the Millettia laurentii tree, indigenous to Africa. The color is a rich dark brown with thick striping in almost black. Sapwood is dramatically different from the heartwood in pale yellowish white. The grain is straight and the texture coarse and oily. Wenge rates above average on the Janka hardness scale at 1630 and has excellent dimensional stability.

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Considering Hardwood Flooring Finishes

Color Choices

One of the things that makes hardwood such an excellent choice is the various available colors. No matter what decor is going in the home or business, there is a hardwood to go with it.

Natural

A hardwood floor can be sealed with a protective clear finish that showcases the natural appearance of the wood. The unique grain pattern and characteristics of the species clearly shows with a natural finish. Some species such as Maple, Pine, and Red Oak have a very light color. Others, such as Brazilian Teak, and Wenge, have a very dark color, and other species will fall somewhere in between.

Almost all exotic species are sealed with a natural finish. In some cases, they are sealed with a lightly tinted finish to accentuate the natural beauty of the wood.

Stained

An almost endless number of looks can be created through the application of a colored stain to hardwood floor planks. It is not uncommon for a manufacturer to use several different species with a variety of stain options to create a spectrum of color choices for buyers.

Light, Medium, & Dark

Some sellers will categorize their flooring finishes in terms of light, medium, and dark, or by color family such as yellows, golds, tans, browns, blacks. If natural and stained categories are not available, it is likely the dealer uses this designation to help buyers find the exact color they want.

The best way to ensure you are getting the right color, be it natural or stained, is to obtain samples of the flooring from the seller. These can be taken to the project site to get a better sense of which color best fits your project.

Light Sensitivity

It is important to note that because wood is a natural product, it can be sensitive to light and darken over time. Some species are more photosensitive than others. The following species are considered to be sensitive to light:

• American Cherry (aka Black Cherry)
• Australian Cypress
• Bloodwood (aka Muirapiranga)
• Brazilian Cherry (aka Jatoba)
• Brazilian Mesquite (aka Andiroba; Royal Mahogany)
• Brazilian Redwood (aka Massanarduba)
• Brazilian Teak (aka Cumaru)
• Brazilian Walnut (aka Ipe)
• Indian Rosewood (aka Sonokeling)
• Kempas
• Nyatoh
• Santos Mahogany (aka Cabreuva)
• Sucupira, dark
• Teak
• Tiete Rosewood (aka Patagonian Cherry)
• Tigerwood
• Walnut

Hickory and maple are both mildly light sensitive.

If you decide on a light sensitive species then it will be important to move furniture and rugs on a regular basis for the first year to allow an equal light pattern reaches the floor. If a part of the floor is covered and the area under the covering appears lighter then remove the covering to allow the floor to equalize. It may take a few months for the covered area to darken to an equal color as rest of the flooring.

Hardwood Flooring Finish Options

There are a couple different finishing options available which play a role in how the floors should be cleaned and maintained. Surface finishes are easily cleaned with soap and water, while penetrating finishes, sometimes also called penetrating seals, cannot ever be cleaned with water. If a lacquer, shellac, or varnish is used to finish the floor, though it is technically a surface finish, floors must be treated as penetrated.

Surface Finishes

Surface finishes are among the most commonly used finish on hardwood floors today. Nearly all hardwood floors have surface finishes. Surface finishes shield floors from harm by forming a protective layer on top of the wood, making it possible to use a soap and water solution to clean the floors. These finishes will make it look like there is a shiny layer of plastic on the floor. Options include:

• Polyurethane: Polyurethane wood floor finishes are highly resistant to moisture, and can handle spills while resisting stain. They are less likely to show wear and tear over time if properly maintained. These can be used as a high gloss or matte finish, and are either moisture cured or oil modified. This flexibility and durability makes it the most popular floor finish on the market today.
• Urethane: Urethane wood floor finish is available as either a Swedish finish (or acid cure) or water-based. The Swedish finish should only be used by experienced professionals because of the high level of chemicals and odor it produces. People doing their own installation should use water based to avoid the chemicals, but beware of the fast drying time.
• Aluminum Oxide: Factory-finished or pre-finished floors often have one or more coats of finish that include aluminum oxide, second in hardness to diamonds. Aluminum oxide offers durability and a long lasting finish.
• Epoxy: Made of polymers, epoxy sealant is a strong and durable flooring finish. A skilled professional must be hired to apply this finish as it depends on proper mixing and application for best results.

Penetrating Finishes or Seals

Penetrating finishes are those that sink down into the wood, rather than resting on top of it. They protect the wood from within. Water cannot be used to clean floors using this type of finish, so this is a major reason why it is becoming less common. These finishes will make it easy to feel the wood grain if the floor is touched. Options include:

• Oils & Wax: Oil and Wax are two of the oldest and simplest ways to finish a floor. It gives the hardwood flooring protection to prevent dirt from getting into the floors and a nice shine.
• Varnish: Varnish is not as common of a finish as it used to be. It scratches easily so it will show wear and tear sooner than other finishes, but can be found in both high and low gloss finishes.
• Shellac and Lacquer: Shellac is a hard resin that comes from Lac, a substance secreted by insects to make cocoons. It is also used in the food industry to protect food and add shine. Lacquer is a synthetic coating made using cellulose. Both finishes dry quickly, but because they are not as resistant to spills and stains as other finishing options, they are not commonly used now.

How to Figure Out the Finish

When it comes to cleaning and maintenance of the floor, knowing the finish is essential. Ask the realtor who helped in the purchase of the home or try one of these tests to determine what kind of finish is likely on the wood floors in the home:

• Put a small amount of water on the floor and leave it sitting for about 10 minutes. If there’s a water spot, it is likely a polish or wax based finish. If not, it’s a surface sealed floor.
• Run a finger across the floor. If there’s a smudge mark left behind, it’s a polish or wax based finish.

Oil Based vs Water Based Finishes

There are many different oil based and water based options available, though it is important to know the differences between the two. Due to rising health and environmental concerns, the use of oil based finishes is declining in favor of water based.

If the finishes are acid or moisture cured, they are oil based. This is not to say these finishes do not have a place in the industry, as they do cure hard enough to offer great protection and beauty to the floor, enhancing the grain and offering a warm tinted appearance as it ages. The fumes may linger for a week or more, as it takes three to seven days for the finish to completely cure, causing those with allergy sensitivities to suffer.

Water based finishes are much better for the environment and for those who suffer from allergies. They do not darken over time, and when combined with a hardener additive, are harder than oil based finishes. They will however, raise the grain of the floor making it rough, unless they are used after the floor has been treated with an alcohol based sealer. Water based finishes work well and consistently for all three sheen levels. The coats dry fast – usually within an hour – without harsh fumes.

Gloss Level

The gloss level on a hardwood floor refers to the amount of sheen visible on it. How shiny the floor is will have nothing to do with its durability, so it comes down to a matter of personal preference. An important thing to consider is that different wood species will display gloss levels differently. For example, a high sheen on one type of wood may not look the same as a high sheen on another due to fundamental differences in the wood.

High

This type of gloss will be extremely shiny and will reflect more light than other types of gloss. This will lead to a high glare, but will provide the most polished look. Finishes will be labeled with their gloss level. High gloss levels will also show dust more easily than a low gloss sheen will. These are commonly seen in gymnasiums and other commercial settings.

Semi Gloss

Also known as medium gloss, this level is somewhere between the high gloss and the low gloss, providing a relative compromise for those who cannot decide between the two.

Low Gloss: Satin or Matte or Low Luster

Lower gloss finishes will help to reduce the appearance of minor scratches, while a high gloss will accentuate them. This finish level is commonly chosen for professionally site finished floors and for prefinished floors.

Hardwood Flooring Width

There are a few different width options that will determine the appearance and installation requirements of the flooring. Learning about the width options will help in determining which style of hardwood floor to use.

Strip

This is a linear type of wood flooring in thin width boards, usually around 2 1/4″ wide. The thinner strips of wood are used to create the illusion of space in a room and are recommended for smaller rooms that need to be “opened up” a bit.

Plank

This is a linear type of wood flooring in thicker width boards than strip. Generally, plank boards are anywhere from 3 inches to 6 inches wide. Plank can also come in “wide board” where the widths are typically 5 inches or wider.

Random Width

Some hardwood floors are sold as random width, meaning each box of flooring contains a variety of widths. Some buyers prefer the look that is created by a random width floor.

Parquet

This type of wood flooring is used to create any number of geometric patterns on the floor when it is installed. Each parquet will detail the pattern it is meant to create when it is purchased. A wide variety of parquet floors are available, but will cost more to install because they are more time consuming.

Hardwood Flooring Length

Lengths will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some will include boards of all one length, generally at a higher cost because of the quality required. Others will include boards of random length, while indicating the shortest board and the longest board lengths on the box. With random board lengths, all the boards in the box will fall in between those two lengths. Some manufacturers may even note the proportion of each board length.

The boards are staggered in installation, so to the average eye, one length boards may appear as random length. One length boards will not be uniform in appearance because they will need to be installed randomly, cut to fit the dimensions of the room.

Edge Detail Types

There are several different edge types available which will affect the installation and appearance of the overall floor when the installation is complete. Learning about each one of these edge types will help in deciding which one to use.

• Square Edge: Boards with this edge meet uniformly to create an even appearance blending the floor from board to board.
• Micro Bevel: Boards have an extremely shallow groove, designed to help hide irregularities in the flooring such as uneven board height. It is hard to see a difference between micro and micron bevel.
• Micron Bevel: Boards have an even smaller groove than the micro bevel. Since it is so small, it is hard to tell the difference between the bevel from manufacturer to manufacturer. It also meant to hide irregularities in the floor.
• Eased Edge: These boards have a slightly less distinctive groove in them than the full bevel. There are some manufacturers that add the edge to the end joints as well as the length of the board, which creates a different visual effect when the floor is complete.
• Full Bevel: These boards have a distinctive groove in them, which creates an informal look. The area between the boards is sealed when the floor is finished to make it easier to clean between the boards.
• French Bleed Edge: These boards are distressed and the edges are stained with a dark or black color to make them stand out.
• Pillowed Edge: These boards have a soft and smooth edge.

Installation Patterns

There are two different installation patterns to use when installing a hardwood floor. Each installation pattern will provide different visual interest adding an element of decor to the room.

Plank Style

In this style, the planks – or strips – are laid end to end. Most hardwood floors are installed like this. With this style, boards can be the same width, or random widths can be used.

Parquet Style

In this style, the planks or strips are installed to create a specific geometric pattern. There are several different patterns available to choose from. The parquet pattern gives a very distinct and sophisticated look to a room. Traditional parquet installation is expensive and rare, since it has been replaced with veneer patterns.

Herringbone

In a herringbone pattern, the hardwood floor strips of are laid in a diagonal pattern that looks like a twilled fabric. To develop this pattern, installers can lay it out manually or use pre-made squares, like parquet.

• Brick Pattern Half Bond: This kind of floor is laid down to look like bricks.
• Diagonal Basket: This kind of floor is laid in diagonal squares, with each square containing three boards.
• Square Basket: This kind of floor is similar to the diagonal basket, except it is laid in a linear pattern, rather than diagonal. One square is laid horizontally, and the next is laid vertically to create visual interest.
• Square/Diagonal Herringbone: This pattern is laid in a diagonal zigzag, usually parallel with the walls.
• Single Herringbone: The boards are laid in an “M” shaped pattern, with one board per angle.
• Double Herringbone: The boards are laid in a “W” shaped pattern, with two boards per angle.
• Chevron: The boards are laid in a “V” shaped pattern, using one board per “V” shape.

Medallions & Borders

Using medallions and borders will not only add value to a home, but will provide owners with the satisfaction of knowing they have something different from others.

Medallions

These are generally large circular designs placed in the center of a room. Common designs include: a compass, a sundial, a sunburst, or a mandala. Custom designs may include a family crest, monogram, or animal such as a lion.

Borders

These are similar to borders for wall paper, except they are laid around the hardwood floor. They can be anything from a simple dark line, to a more complex geometric pattern. These can be installed at any point throughout the flooring, but are generally installed toward the walls or the center of the room.

Both medallions and borders are considered inlays, as inlays are designs or patterns that are to be “inlaid” into a hardwood floor installation. Before computers could assist in the creation of these materials, they were handmade, making them expensive and rare.

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