Along with tradition, below are 9 reasons solid hardwood flooring is a great choice for your project:

1. Straight-forward installation for those with experience

Quality hardwood floors are specifically milled to ensure a uniform and stable fit. The choice between finished and unfinished hardwood floors is an important factor in this, of course. Installing prefinished hardwood flooring is considerably easier and cheaper.

2. Easy to clean

Hardwood floors are very easy to clean as they do not accumulate a lot of dirt, dust, and debris. A weekly cleaning procedure involves vacuuming, mopping, and keeping the floor dry. That’s it!

3. High-quality look

Along with an elegant, high-end aesthetic, hardwood floors offer the warmth, beauty, and value of wood, which never goes out of style. Hardwood floors are also said to enable a look of spaciousness wherever they are installed.

4. Strength and durability

High-quality hardwood floors that are kiln-dried, manufactured, installed, and finished to certain standards can last for generations. Able to stand up to active workspaces and heavy foot traffic, quality hardwood floors are tough, hard-wearing, and have long-term durability. Maple flooring is known to be one of the strongest, with excellent shock absorbency.

5. A great long-term investment

Choosing hardwood floors increases the value of your property. It is a great long-term investment and can actually become a strong resale argument, exceeding the initial installation cost of the floors. It also enables a faster sale and brings higher prices at the time of resale.

6. Variety

Hardwood floors offer a wide range of appearances. There are many colors, styles, stains, and species available, from the locally available hickory, walnut, and cherry hardwoods to the pricier exotic hardwood flooring options like Brazilian Tigerwood and mahogany. In addition, you can choose between pre-finished and unfinished hardwood floors. No matter how diverse and unique your needs are, there are many hardwood flooring options available.

7. Better acoustics

A properly installed hardwood floor never gives you hollow sounds or vibrations.

8. Healthy indoor air quality

These floors are a healthy choice for interior environments. It has no fibers, grout lines, or embossing that can trap dust, pollen, particles, animal dander, and allergens that occur with carpets. They are the best choice of flooring for allergy sufferers and contribute to healthier indoor air quality.

9. Ageless quality

When other floors will begin to look tired and worn, your hardwood floors will still look beautiful. And your hardwood floors become more valuable as time goes by. Also keep in mind that, unlike carpeting and vinyl, hardwood floors can be refinished rather than replaced when the finish needs an update.

Find out first hand if solid hardwood is the right choice for your space by checking out our stunning online selection of hardwood flooring and order up to 5 FREE samples straight to your doorstep with no credit card required.

What qualities are you looking for in a new floor?

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Now that you have decided that the structural strength, the old-world dependability and permanence of hardwood flooring board is the right choice for your space, you now have another level of choices available to you. Having options means enjoying a greater flexibility as far as the direction in which you want to go, but sometimes it can be a bit confusing too. For hardwood flooring board, there are several varieties from which to choose, and all of them have advantages as far as look and practicality are concerned. Here are some brief profiles of some excellent options you might consider when it comes to hardwood flooring board species.

White Oak

This sturdy hardwood was a mainstay for shipwrights in the age of the tall ship, being very resistant to moisture as well as being very easy to work with in terms of cutting and fastening. The use of white oak was common to the eastern United States, as well as in the Midwestern Great Lakes region, where many ocean going ships were constructed with this species of hardwood. White oak makes excellent hardwood flooring board because of its strength and general durability. The white oak wood itself is as descriptively light in color, with subtle touches of brown highlighting it.

Red Oak

Red oak was the workhorse hardwood of the Industrial Age, used not only as hardwood flooring board and for furniture, but also for use in making railroad ties and wagon wheels. This diverse usage is due in part to the wide availability of red oak hardwood, but also because of its hardness and adaptability to all kinds of household and commercial uses. Red oak is very easy to stain and yields a very good finish. Much like the white oak, it is very resistant to wear, making it a very practical choice for hardwood flooring board. Red oak wood is very attractive, demonstrating a pinkish hue in addition to its tonal range of off-whites and light browns.

American Cherry

American Cherry is also known for its abundance as a hardwood species in North America, and its reputation a hardwood flooring board precedes it in many ways. Known for its rich natural deep burgundy exterior, cherry is a popular choice for use as hardwood flooring board, but also in cabinet making, paneling, and many other practical uses where reliable materials that are meant to last. American Cherry hardwood is one of the softer hardwoods and while not recommended as flooring board for high traffic areas, its reputation as easy to work with is renowned. Cherry hardwood is an ornate yet dependable choice for your hardwood flooring board project, with a range of color that spans off-white to reddish tones, making it truly distinctive. Because of its photosensitive nature, cherry will darken with age over time.

Hard Maple

Sometimes known as Canadian maple, or sugar maple, hard maple is a hardwood upon which Native Americans and early North American settlers depended heavily. Not only important for shelter, hard maple was used for making anything from footwear to weaponry, and from soap to syrup. The hardest of all maples, hard maple is known for its strength as well as its very abrasion- and wear-resistant surface. It also has a fine, uniform texture. These traits make maple a great choice for hardwood flooring board. Maple hardwood flooring board is often available in a pre-stained form. This variety of hardwood is the lightest of all species of maple and is characterized by a range of light to darker shades of rich brown, often with reddish highlights.

White Ash

Another popular variety of hardwood flooring board is white ash. It is characterized by the density and strength of the wood itself, making it a logical choice for its use as hardwood flooring board. Among other things, white ash is a popular wood out of which baseball bats and other types of athletic equipment designed for maximum stress are made. You can be assured that white ash hardwood flooring board can stand up to heavy foot traffic! The color of the wood ranges from a blonde cream to light brown with amber highlights, a lighter range than white oak. The grain pattern in white ash is similar to that of red oak, but without some of oak’s pinkish tones.

Yellow Birch

Yellow birch has been long considered a reliable hardwood lumber because of its ease of use from the standpoint of builders and manufacturers. Historically, birch’s bark was famous for making canoes, and subsequently used for centuries in making all types of household items as well as enhancing interiors in many ways, including its use as hardwood flooring board. The yellow birch tends to be slightly more golden in color when compared to other species of birch, although it retains creamy white highlights. Yellow birch hardwood often features curling patterns in the grain that make it stand out among hardwoods. The wood is characterized by a fine, uniform texture, making it perfect for attractive hardwood flooring board.

Black Walnut

Walnut stands as a decorative hardwood which is widely used through out the world. A hardwood known for its close-grain appearance and dark luster when used as hardwood flooring board, black walnut is another product in flooring that is widely available in North America. Although not as hard as some hardwood species and not recommended as flooring in high traffic areas, black walnut hardwood flooring board is very accommodating in terms of its ease of use from an installer’s point of view, and as a building material in general. Black walnut cuts, nails, and takes to glue very well, and it accepts stains very easily. The wood of the walnut varies in color from light to deeper golden brown tones, and on to even darker, chocolaty hues, with grains equally varied from straight to wavy patterns.

Brazilian Cherry, aka Jatoba

This richly colored hardwood is known both as Brazilian Cherry and as Jatoba. Although it is not technically a cherry wood, it is like cherry in certain respects, and quite unlike in others. Brazilian Cherry is extremely versatile and is used in cabinet making, tool handles, and athletic equipment. It also makes excellent hardwood flooring board. The coloring of this exotic hardwood is very distinctive, characterized by a lustrous range of deep reds, burgundies, and darker reddish browns, making it an extremely decorative hardwood flooring board option with an exotic, high-end appeal. This hardwood flooring board is photosensitive and will darken over time, just like American cherry hardwood. The wood is extremely dense and hard, more so than many domestic hardwoods, which makes it a very reliable choice for hardwood flooring board.

Choosing the variety of hardwood flooring board which is best suited to your home or commercial project adds an additional level of ownership which can be enjoyed well into the future, knowing that the choice you’ve made reflects not only practicality and beauty, but also personality. After all, the hardwood flooring board you choose will define the living area or working area for a long time to come.

The post How to Choose Hardwood Flooring appeared first on Learning Center.

For minimum fuss and easy installation, pre-finished hardwood is a good choice for those who wish to install their hardwood floor without having to do any sanding or finishing. Pre-finished hardwood floors are therefore ideal for the do-it-yourselfer who wishes to save time and bother, and who wishes to enjoy the benefits of a new hardwood floor immediately after it’s installed.

A valued characteristic of unfinished hardwood floors, however, lies in the uniformity of the finish. Pre-finished floors are by definition on a board by board basis, and the finish which seals the board does not seal the minute spaces between individual hardwood planks in the same way. With an unfinished floor, the finish is added over the surface of a hardwood floor as a whole after the boards have been installed. This offers a generally more uniform finish and a somewhat greater moisture-proof seal. Many subcontractors choose to install unfinished hardwood floors for these reasons.

So let’s weigh the options. If you are a homeowner who does not want to vacate your house and would like to do an installation quickly, a pre-finished hardwood floor is an excellent choice. You will not have to deal with the fumes of the finish, or the mess left after the sanding process. If you are a subcontractor, an unfinished floor may allow you to deliver a more uniform finish on the whole floor, along with the added moisture protection the overall sealing process provides. In either case, the beautiful look and feel of the hardwood floor, along with the added structural benefits to your house or office building are certainly benefits you can enjoy for a very long time.

Unfinished Red Oak Flooring

Prefinished Red Oak Flooring

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Hardwood floors mean more than choosing a wood, grabbing some boards, and installing them in the room. Beyond the floor, people must take time to consider the various moldings or trims and accessories they will need to finish the look they are going for. Without moldings, trims and transition pieces, a hardwood floor job can look unfinished, drawing away from the beauty it adds to a room.

If installing a prefinished floor, most of them come with their own matching trim pieces to complete the job. Using an unfinished hardwood requires separate staining of unfinished molding and trim pieces in order to match the finished floor.

If installing engineered wood floors, you must also consider whether or not you’ll be using underlay and, if so, what the best choice is.

You may also need to consider what adhesive to use if going with either a glue-down installation (engineered wood or thin profile solid) or a floating glue-seam installation.

Moldings, Trim & Transitions

There are several different moldings and trim options designed to fit any flooring need. When installing hardwood floors, the following moldings may be required in order to complete the job:

• T-Molding: This molding is most commonly seen as a transition between a tiled floor and a wood floor, though it is also used to connect one wood floor to another.
• Reducer/One-Sided Reducer/Flush Reducer: This molding is typically used to level the flooring when connected to a floor with a lower height. It is also being used as a design element around fireplaces.
• Overlap Reducer: This molding is used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and with floors of a lower height.
• Bi-level Reducer: This molding is used with solid hardwood floors to transition to carpet or other floors of a lower height.
• Baby Threshold/Threshold: This molding is used in areas where expansion is required, such as with sliding glass doors, but can also be used with carpet.
• End Cap/Square Nose: This can be used similarly to a baby threshold molding.
• Overlap Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is typically used with floating steps where expansion may be required.
• Flush/Square Edge Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: This is used as a transition for stairs.
• Quarter Round: This is commonly used around baseboards and fixed objects throughout a room.
• Shoe Edge Molding: This works just as quarter round molding, but does so with a smaller profile.
• Baseboard/Wall Base: This is used around the base of all walls in the room to cover the expansion gap space the flooring needs to breathe.

Underlayment

Underlayment serves as the barrier between the hardwood flooring and the subfloor. It is used primarily with engineered wood floors. Solid hardwood floors typically only use rosin/felt paper as an underlayment.

Depending on the type of underlayment, its purpose is to provide cushion between the floor and the subfloor, muffle sound (important for above ground installations) and/or block moisture from getting to the hardwood floor (especially important when installing over a concrete subfloor).

• Basic Foam: This is available in several different types, based on the manufacturer. Essentially, this is a layer of foam to be used with concrete floors with at or below grade level installations. It may come with a plastic layer as a moisture barrier or with an additional layer of sticky material to aid with installation.
• Sound Choice: This is an eco-friendly underlayment option that provides insulation to the flooring. It will reduce the noise associated with walking on wood floors while also working to keep the floors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It has a vapor barrier to keep water from reaching the flooring as well.
• Floor Muffler: This will reduce the amount of noise produced by walking on the floors, but is not an eco-friendly product because it is completely synthetic.
• Cork: This is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a green underlayment option. It will work wonders to reduce the sounds from walking while also protecting the floor from moisture. It can be used for floating installations just laid over the subfloor, or it can be glued down.
• Proflex: This is an alternative to cork, but since it is used mainly with high rise buildings, it is suggested builders get approval with the appropriate homeowners association before using it. Commonly seen with concrete subfloors, this option both reduces moisture risk and sound from walking. It is pressed down with a peel off tape rather than glued down.
• Plastic Sheathing: A plastic sheet can be used on underneath whatever underlayment choice to add moisture protection. This option doesn’t provide much, if any, sound proofing.
• Vinyl: As with plastic, vinyl is an excellent option for moisture protection, but not so much for sound proofing.
• Rosin/Felt Paper: This type of underlayment does not provide a moisture barrier, or much sound proofing. This material was laid down when solid hardwood floors were being installed, to prevent drywall dust and other particles from getting to the installer’s eyes.

Adhesives

Solid hardwood floors that are ¾” thick must be nailed down to the subfloor. However, thin profile solids and many engineered hardwood floors may need to be glued down. Glue-seam floating engineered floors require adhesive to bond the tongue and groove edges together. There are many choices of adhesives available and it is important to choose the right one.

• Urethane Adhesives: These are the most commonly used adhesives for engineered and thin profile hardwood floor installations today. There are several different options out there, though they are not too environmentally friendly. It is important to check to ensure no adhesive is left anywhere on the wood after the installation and again in the proper day light. The adhesive can be cleaned up using mineral spirits.
• Water Based Adhesives: These adhesives are only to be used with engineered wood floors and are the best option for those who are concerned with environmental and health issues, though they do not always provide the best quality adhesion. Powder based adhesives are also available to mix with water. A damp cloth can be used to clean the adhesive before it sets. If it is fully cured, use mineral spirits.
• Floating Floor Glues: Many manufacturers make their own floating floor glues to be used to glue the seams of with their products. Each type of glue will have its own guidelines and recommendations for installation. These can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before the glue sets. Afterward, be careful when it comes to scraping the glue off other surfaces.

The best approach is to choosing the right adhesive is to follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Important Note: If using mineral spirits to clean up adhesive, ensure proper ventilation and perform away from any heat or flame sources.

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Selecting a Hardwood Species

Alder – Alder is a very light brown wood with a yellow or pink tinge with a fine grain and smooth texture. It is one of the fastest growing hardwood species, fully maturing in just 10 – 15 years, making it a sustainable, eco-friendly material. Due to its light color and ability to absorb stain well, alder can be stained to resemble almost any kind of wood, creating an expensive look at a fraction of the cost. Alder measures 590 on the Janka Hardness scale. It is among the softer hardwoods available for flooring. Alder is a popular choice for “shabby chic” décor.

Ash, White – Ash trees belong to the olive family but do not produce edible fruit. Its color ranges from a lustrous white to a rich cream or very pale tan. A popular choice in flooring, white ash has a distinct grain resembling oak with twisted, interwoven burl patterning. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1320 gives ash a very good overall strength, excellent shock resistance and good tensile strength for a long-lasting floor that can withstand a lot of traffic.

Beech – Beech is a hardwood species with great color variation from reddish brown heartwood to creamy white sapwood, presented in distinctive streaks and whorls throughout the wood. It has a tight grain and a smooth, uniform texture. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1300 indicates durability and strength.

Birch – There are many species of birch, each with its own color variations. Yellow birch is most commonly used for flooring. Yellow birch coloring ranges from a cream or light brown sapwood to a light brown or reddish heartwood, causing noticeable but not dramatic color variation. It is tightly grained with straight, curly or wavy patterns. It can be stained with a convincing mahogany or walnut finish. Birch measures 1260 on the Janka Hardness scale, just slighter softer than red oak which measures 1290.

Bubinga – Bubinga is a striking wood grown in Africa with a deep, rich reddish color variegated with darker streaks and grain patterns. The grain is fine and well-defined for a beautiful rustic appearance. Bubinga rates 2690 on the Janka Hardness scale, an exceptionally hard and durable material for a floor that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic.

Cherry, American (aka Black) – Cherry, sometimes called fruitwood, is grown in the eastern United States. The wood is a light to medium reddish –brown with a tight, often wavy grain and a satiny, lustrous finish. The Janka Hardness scale rating of American cherry is 950, making this one of the softest hardwoods; however, its dimensional stability is 7.1, above average.

Cherry, Brazilian (aka Jatoba) – Brazilian cherry is a medium hued reddish wood with darker streaks and a course grain texture. Rated 2820 on the Janka Hardness scale, Brazilian cherry is an exceptionally hard and durable flooring material that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic.

Cypress, Australian – Australian Cypress is similar to pine in appearance; a honey gold wood with light cream sapwood and wavy dark brown streaks and knots offering a lot of patterning and contrast, ideal for creating a rustic look. Rated 1375 on the Janka Hardness scale, it has excellent durability and dimensional stability.

Hickory – Hickory ranges in color from the medium tan or a light reddish brown of the heartwood to the creamy white of the sapwood. The closed grain is figured with fine straight or wavy lines and the unfinished wood is rough to the touch. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Hickory has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

Kempas – Heartwood ranges in color from orange red to reddish brown without much contrast or grain definition. Sapwood is pale yellow to white with a high luster and an interlocked or spiral grain. It has a coarse texture and a Janka Hardness scale rating of 1710, but a low stability rating.

Mahogany, Asian (aka Keruing) – Keruing is a general name assigned to wood from more than 70 different species of Dipterocarpus native to Southeast Asia whose wood is nearly indistinguishable. Color varies from pinkish-brown to dark brown without significant contrast. The texture is coarse and the grain shallowly interlocked or straight. It rates 1270 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it similar in hardness to red oak.

Mahogany, Santos – Santos Mahogany is a hardwood indigenous to the tropical forests of South America. The color is a rich dark reddish brown with darker striations and fine, oily texture. Grain is straight or wavy and contrast coloring is low but pronounced. It rates high on the Janka Hardness scale at 2200, indicating excellent durability and strength.

Maple, Hard (aka Sugar) – Hard Maple, also known as sugar maple, is common to North America and wood ranges in color from creamy white to light reddish brown through both heartwood and sapwood. The wood shows medium figuring of the grain with rare occurrences of quilted, fiddleback, or bird’s-eye detailing, which is usually sold at a premium. Hard Maple rates above average on the Janka Hardness scale at 1450.

Merbau – Merbau is a hardwood indigenous to Indonesia, Malaysia, and Papua New Guinea. The wood is highly prized for its rich, lustrous brown or dark reddish brown color that is sometimes sprinkled with flecks of pale gold. The grain pattern can be interlocked, wavy, or straight. Merbau is a structurally stable wood with a rating of 1925 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it an exceptionally hard and durable surface.

Mesquite – Mesquite is a deciduous tree found in north Mexico and across the southwest and Midwestern United States. Wood color ranges from light brown to dark reddish brown with ingrown mineral streaks. Color variations are tonally moderate, but visually distinctive. Mesquite is a very durable wood with a rating of 2345 on the Janka Hardness scale.

Oak, Red – Red Oak is a general term used for more than 200 subspecies common to North America, differentiated by color variation. There is little difference in color between sapwood and heartwood. The wood is light in color and reddish in tone. The grain is open and coarse with a tight grain pattern. Quarter sawn lumber can have a flake pattern, also known as butterflies of tiger rays. Northern Red Oak scores a 1290 on the Janka hardness scale and is the benchmark average rating. Southern red oak is slightly softer, scoring 1060 on the Janka scale.

Oak, White – White oak heartwood is pale brown in color and may have a pinkish or slightly silver/gray cast. Sapwood is light cream to white with low color variation. The grain is open with rays longer than that found in red oak with occasional swirls, burls and tight knots. White oak is slightly softer than the median and rates 1210 on the Janka hardness scale.

Padauk – Padauk is considered an exotic hardwood indigenous to Central and West Africa. The heartwood is a dark, rich reddish or purplish brown or black with little variation in color. The grain is straight or interlocked and the texture is coarse. Padauk rates 1725 on the Janka hardness scale and is exceptionally strong and stable.

Pecan – Pecan wood ranges in color from the reddish brown with dark brown streaks of the heartwood to the creamy pinkish white of the sapwood. The grain is open with straight, wavy or irregular lines. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Pecan has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

Pine (aka Southern Yellow) – Southern Yellow Pine is the wood from several evergreen species common to the southern regions of the United States. The heartwood is light yellow to yellowish brown and can have an orange cast. Sapwood is yellowish white to pale tan. The closed grain has prominent and distinctive figuring patterns and knots are common. It is softer than the median on the Janka hardness scale, falling between 690 and 870 depending on species.

Pine, Heart – The term heart pine is usually used to describe wood that has been reclaimed and recycled from old buildings. Its color is warm reddish brown with pale yellow sapwood and some black sap staining. Heart pine is a dense wood with a high degree of figuring. The grain pattern is usually either swirled or straight lines close together like pinstripes depending on the method used to saw. Heart pine rates a median value of 1225 on the Janka hardness scale, but dimensional stability can vary with the species, age and prior usage of the wood.

Sapele – Sapele is an exotic hardwood similar in many ways to mahogany. It is indigenous to Africa. The wood is a dark, rich, reddish brown with a fine, interlocked grain. With an above average Janka rating of 1500 and exceptional dimensional stability, Sapele offers more durability than a true mahogany and compares to oak in strength and wear.

Teak, Brazilian (aka Cumaru) – Indigenous to South America, Brazilian teak is one of the hardest wood species in the world. It is a fairly uniform light to medium brown and may have a yellow cast. The grain is fine and interlocked, and the wood feels waxy or oily to the touch. Brazilian teak rates 3540 on the Janka hardness scale and has above average dimensional stability, making it an extremely durable and long-lasting flooring material.

Teak, True – True teak is native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia and is grown in Central America and parts of South America. Color range is a medium golden brown with streaks of darker brown. The grain may be wavy or straight, and the texture of the wood is coarse and oily with a dull luster. True teak measures 1000 – 1155, relatively low on the Janka hardness scale, making it a softer wood than most hardwoods.

Tigerwood – Tigerwood grows naturally in the in the neotropical forests of Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Guatemala and Mexico. Color ranges from a pale cream to a rich reddish-orange hue in the dramatic streaking pattern that gives the wood its name. Tigerwood has an irregular grain that may be mottled, wavy or interlocked and a fine texture with a medium to dull luster. Tigerwood measures 1850 on the Janka hardness scale and is a heavy, stable flooring material.

Walnut, American Black – American black walnut is indigenous and common to North America. Wood color ranges from rich dark brown to black with a purple cast. There is a dramatic difference between the heartwood and the white to light tan sapwood. Flooring manufacturers often darken the sapwood by bleeding the heartwood color into the sapwood by steaming the wood. The grain is open and straight, and can have curly or burled figure. American black walnut has a Janka hardness rating of 1010, softer than red oak.

Walnut, Brazilian (aka Ipe) – Brazilian walnut is indigenous to South America. Color is a medium to very dark brownish black with little variation. The grain is fine to medium, straight, wavy or irregular. Wood is heavy, solid and oily, and the Janka scale rating is 3680 with above average stability, making Ipe (pronounced “e-pay”) the hardest and most durable wood available.

Wenge – Wenge is lumber from the Millettia laurentii tree, indigenous to Africa. The color is a rich dark brown with thick striping in almost black. Sapwood is dramatically different from the heartwood in pale yellowish white. The grain is straight and the texture coarse and oily. Wenge rates above average on the Janka hardness scale at 1630 and has excellent dimensional stability.

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Considering Hardwood Flooring Finishes

Color Choices

One of the things that makes hardwood such an excellent choice is the various available colors. No matter what decor is going in the home or business, there is a hardwood to go with it.

Natural

A hardwood floor can be sealed with a protective clear finish that showcases the natural appearance of the wood. The unique grain pattern and characteristics of the species clearly shows with a natural finish. Some species such as Maple, Pine, and Red Oak have a very light color. Others, such as Brazilian Teak, and Wenge, have a very dark color, and other species will fall somewhere in between.

Almost all exotic species are sealed with a natural finish. In some cases, they are sealed with a lightly tinted finish to accentuate the natural beauty of the wood.

Stained

An almost endless number of looks can be created through the application of a colored stain to hardwood floor planks. It is not uncommon for a manufacturer to use several different species with a variety of stain options to create a spectrum of color choices for buyers.

Light, Medium, & Dark

Some sellers will categorize their flooring finishes in terms of light, medium, and dark, or by color family such as yellows, golds, tans, browns, blacks. If natural and stained categories are not available, it is likely the dealer uses this designation to help buyers find the exact color they want.

The best way to ensure you are getting the right color, be it natural or stained, is to obtain samples of the flooring from the seller. These can be taken to the project site to get a better sense of which color best fits your project.

Light Sensitivity

It is important to note that because wood is a natural product, it can be sensitive to light and darken over time. Some species are more photosensitive than others. The following species are considered to be sensitive to light:

• American Cherry (aka Black Cherry)
• Australian Cypress
• Bloodwood (aka Muirapiranga)
• Brazilian Cherry (aka Jatoba)
• Brazilian Mesquite (aka Andiroba; Royal Mahogany)
• Brazilian Redwood (aka Massanarduba)
• Brazilian Teak (aka Cumaru)
• Brazilian Walnut (aka Ipe)
• Indian Rosewood (aka Sonokeling)
• Kempas
• Nyatoh
• Santos Mahogany (aka Cabreuva)
• Sucupira, dark
• Teak
• Tiete Rosewood (aka Patagonian Cherry)
• Tigerwood
• Walnut

Hickory and maple are both mildly light sensitive.

If you decide on a light sensitive species then it will be important to move furniture and rugs on a regular basis for the first year to allow an equal light pattern reaches the floor. If a part of the floor is covered and the area under the covering appears lighter then remove the covering to allow the floor to equalize. It may take a few months for the covered area to darken to an equal color as rest of the flooring.

Hardwood Flooring Finish Options

There are a couple different finishing options available which play a role in how the floors should be cleaned and maintained. Surface finishes are easily cleaned with soap and water, while penetrating finishes, sometimes also called penetrating seals, cannot ever be cleaned with water. If a lacquer, shellac, or varnish is used to finish the floor, though it is technically a surface finish, floors must be treated as penetrated.

Surface Finishes

Surface finishes are among the most commonly used finish on hardwood floors today. Nearly all hardwood floors have surface finishes. Surface finishes shield floors from harm by forming a protective layer on top of the wood, making it possible to use a soap and water solution to clean the floors. These finishes will make it look like there is a shiny layer of plastic on the floor. Options include:

• Polyurethane: Polyurethane wood floor finishes are highly resistant to moisture, and can handle spills while resisting stain. They are less likely to show wear and tear over time if properly maintained. These can be used as a high gloss or matte finish, and are either moisture cured or oil modified. This flexibility and durability makes it the most popular floor finish on the market today.
• Urethane: Urethane wood floor finish is available as either a Swedish finish (or acid cure) or water-based. The Swedish finish should only be used by experienced professionals because of the high level of chemicals and odor it produces. People doing their own installation should use water based to avoid the chemicals, but beware of the fast drying time.
• Aluminum Oxide: Factory-finished or pre-finished floors often have one or more coats of finish that include aluminum oxide, second in hardness to diamonds. Aluminum oxide offers durability and a long lasting finish.
• Epoxy: Made of polymers, epoxy sealant is a strong and durable flooring finish. A skilled professional must be hired to apply this finish as it depends on proper mixing and application for best results.

Penetrating Finishes or Seals

Penetrating finishes are those that sink down into the wood, rather than resting on top of it. They protect the wood from within. Water cannot be used to clean floors using this type of finish, so this is a major reason why it is becoming less common. These finishes will make it easy to feel the wood grain if the floor is touched. Options include:

• Oils & Wax: Oil and Wax are two of the oldest and simplest ways to finish a floor. It gives the hardwood flooring protection to prevent dirt from getting into the floors and a nice shine.
• Varnish: Varnish is not as common of a finish as it used to be. It scratches easily so it will show wear and tear sooner than other finishes, but can be found in both high and low gloss finishes.
• Shellac and Lacquer: Shellac is a hard resin that comes from Lac, a substance secreted by insects to make cocoons. It is also used in the food industry to protect food and add shine. Lacquer is a synthetic coating made using cellulose. Both finishes dry quickly, but because they are not as resistant to spills and stains as other finishing options, they are not commonly used now.

How to Figure Out the Finish

When it comes to cleaning and maintenance of the floor, knowing the finish is essential. Ask the realtor who helped in the purchase of the home or try one of these tests to determine what kind of finish is likely on the wood floors in the home:

• Put a small amount of water on the floor and leave it sitting for about 10 minutes. If there’s a water spot, it is likely a polish or wax based finish. If not, it’s a surface sealed floor.
• Run a finger across the floor. If there’s a smudge mark left behind, it’s a polish or wax based finish.

Oil Based vs Water Based Finishes

There are many different oil based and water based options available, though it is important to know the differences between the two. Due to rising health and environmental concerns, the use of oil based finishes is declining in favor of water based.

If the finishes are acid or moisture cured, they are oil based. This is not to say these finishes do not have a place in the industry, as they do cure hard enough to offer great protection and beauty to the floor, enhancing the grain and offering a warm tinted appearance as it ages. The fumes may linger for a week or more, as it takes three to seven days for the finish to completely cure, causing those with allergy sensitivities to suffer.

Water based finishes are much better for the environment and for those who suffer from allergies. They do not darken over time, and when combined with a hardener additive, are harder than oil based finishes. They will however, raise the grain of the floor making it rough, unless they are used after the floor has been treated with an alcohol based sealer. Water based finishes work well and consistently for all three sheen levels. The coats dry fast – usually within an hour – without harsh fumes.

Gloss Level

The gloss level on a hardwood floor refers to the amount of sheen visible on it. How shiny the floor is will have nothing to do with its durability, so it comes down to a matter of personal preference. An important thing to consider is that different wood species will display gloss levels differently. For example, a high sheen on one type of wood may not look the same as a high sheen on another due to fundamental differences in the wood.

High

This type of gloss will be extremely shiny and will reflect more light than other types of gloss. This will lead to a high glare, but will provide the most polished look. Finishes will be labeled with their gloss level. High gloss levels will also show dust more easily than a low gloss sheen will. These are commonly seen in gymnasiums and other commercial settings.

Semi Gloss

Also known as medium gloss, this level is somewhere between the high gloss and the low gloss, providing a relative compromise for those who cannot decide between the two.

Low Gloss: Satin or Matte or Low Luster

Lower gloss finishes will help to reduce the appearance of minor scratches, while a high gloss will accentuate them. This finish level is commonly chosen for professionally site finished floors and for prefinished floors.

Hardwood Flooring Width

There are a few different width options that will determine the appearance and installation requirements of the flooring. Learning about the width options will help in determining which style of hardwood floor to use.

Strip

This is a linear type of wood flooring in thin width boards, usually around 2 1/4″ wide. The thinner strips of wood are used to create the illusion of space in a room and are recommended for smaller rooms that need to be “opened up” a bit.

Plank

This is a linear type of wood flooring in thicker width boards than strip. Generally, plank boards are anywhere from 3 inches to 6 inches wide. Plank can also come in “wide board” where the widths are typically 5 inches or wider.

Random Width

Some hardwood floors are sold as random width, meaning each box of flooring contains a variety of widths. Some buyers prefer the look that is created by a random width floor.

Parquet

This type of wood flooring is used to create any number of geometric patterns on the floor when it is installed. Each parquet will detail the pattern it is meant to create when it is purchased. A wide variety of parquet floors are available, but will cost more to install because they are more time consuming.

Hardwood Flooring Length

Lengths will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some will include boards of all one length, generally at a higher cost because of the quality required. Others will include boards of random length, while indicating the shortest board and the longest board lengths on the box. With random board lengths, all the boards in the box will fall in between those two lengths. Some manufacturers may even note the proportion of each board length.

The boards are staggered in installation, so to the average eye, one length boards may appear as random length. One length boards will not be uniform in appearance because they will need to be installed randomly, cut to fit the dimensions of the room.

Edge Detail Types

There are several different edge types available which will affect the installation and appearance of the overall floor when the installation is complete. Learning about each one of these edge types will help in deciding which one to use.

• Square Edge: Boards with this edge meet uniformly to create an even appearance blending the floor from board to board.
• Micro Bevel: Boards have an extremely shallow groove, designed to help hide irregularities in the flooring such as uneven board height. It is hard to see a difference between micro and micron bevel.
• Micron Bevel: Boards have an even smaller groove than the micro bevel. Since it is so small, it is hard to tell the difference between the bevel from manufacturer to manufacturer. It also meant to hide irregularities in the floor.
• Eased Edge: These boards have a slightly less distinctive groove in them than the full bevel. There are some manufacturers that add the edge to the end joints as well as the length of the board, which creates a different visual effect when the floor is complete.
• Full Bevel: These boards have a distinctive groove in them, which creates an informal look. The area between the boards is sealed when the floor is finished to make it easier to clean between the boards.
• French Bleed Edge: These boards are distressed and the edges are stained with a dark or black color to make them stand out.
• Pillowed Edge: These boards have a soft and smooth edge.

Installation Patterns

There are two different installation patterns to use when installing a hardwood floor. Each installation pattern will provide different visual interest adding an element of decor to the room.

Plank Style

In this style, the planks – or strips – are laid end to end. Most hardwood floors are installed like this. With this style, boards can be the same width, or random widths can be used.

Parquet Style

In this style, the planks or strips are installed to create a specific geometric pattern. There are several different patterns available to choose from. The parquet pattern gives a very distinct and sophisticated look to a room. Traditional parquet installation is expensive and rare, since it has been replaced with veneer patterns.

Herringbone

In a herringbone pattern, the hardwood floor strips of are laid in a diagonal pattern that looks like a twilled fabric. To develop this pattern, installers can lay it out manually or use pre-made squares, like parquet.

• Brick Pattern Half Bond: This kind of floor is laid down to look like bricks.
• Diagonal Basket: This kind of floor is laid in diagonal squares, with each square containing three boards.
• Square Basket: This kind of floor is similar to the diagonal basket, except it is laid in a linear pattern, rather than diagonal. One square is laid horizontally, and the next is laid vertically to create visual interest.
• Square/Diagonal Herringbone: This pattern is laid in a diagonal zigzag, usually parallel with the walls.
• Single Herringbone: The boards are laid in an “M” shaped pattern, with one board per angle.
• Double Herringbone: The boards are laid in a “W” shaped pattern, with two boards per angle.
• Chevron: The boards are laid in a “V” shaped pattern, using one board per “V” shape.

Medallions & Borders

Using medallions and borders will not only add value to a home, but will provide owners with the satisfaction of knowing they have something different from others.

Medallions

These are generally large circular designs placed in the center of a room. Common designs include: a compass, a sundial, a sunburst, or a mandala. Custom designs may include a family crest, monogram, or animal such as a lion.

Borders

These are similar to borders for wall paper, except they are laid around the hardwood floor. They can be anything from a simple dark line, to a more complex geometric pattern. These can be installed at any point throughout the flooring, but are generally installed toward the walls or the center of the room.

Both medallions and borders are considered inlays, as inlays are designs or patterns that are to be “inlaid” into a hardwood floor installation. Before computers could assist in the creation of these materials, they were handmade, making them expensive and rare.

The post Hardwood Flooring Finishes, Colors and More appeared first on Learning Center.

Hardwood floors are an investment in your home that will last for decades and bring warmth and beauty to any décor. Hardwood buying guide helps to make the right interior design choices that will actually raise the value of your home, wood makes a timeless statement of impeccable taste and elegant style.

The guide will help in deciding whether to install hardwood, there are several things important to consider, including the type of wood suitable for your geographical location and the amount of traffic it will be required to handle. Our hardwood buying guide is a summary of all of the knowledge you need to make the right flooring choice.

Things to Consider When Buying Hardwood

When deciding whether to install hardwood, there are several things important to consider, including the type of wood suitable for your geographical location and the amount of traffic it will be required to handle. Our hardwood buying guide is a summary of all of the knowledge you need to make the right flooring choice.

So Many Choices

There are dozens of hardwood choices on the market today, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. You may have already envisioned the color range that fits your style, but color is only the beginning. You also need to consider the following:

When we consider wood flooring, we generally picture pieces of real wood fitted together, the most traditional type of flooring available. Solid wood flooring is widely available with options in type of wood, grade, thickness and finish.

Solid Wood Flooring, ¾ Inch Thick

While this is the most traditional type of hardwood flooring and certainly the most durable, it is not always the most practical. The main advantage to thick solid hardwood flooring is potential centuries of wear. Some wood floors have survived over a hundred years…and some hundred-year-old woods have been pulled from old installations, re-milled, and recycled into new wood flooring. Yes, they are that durable. You can re-sand and refinish hardwood many times over the life of the floor. While you can expect color changes within the wood over time, this usually serves to enhance the beauty, depth, and character.

The disadvantages to a solid wood floor are also obvious. Thick solid woods are especially vulnerable to moisture and most likely to warp and buckle in a wet climate or with improper installation. You should never install a thick solid wood floor directly over concrete; a wood subfloor is a must. Thick solid woods are also not recommended for subtropical, humid regions, unless the wood you choose is impervious to moisture, like woods traditionally chosen for ship building or those native to subtropical regions.

Solid wood flooring, 5/16, 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick

Thinner profile wood flooring offers a bit more versatility over thicker boards, but won’t wear as well or feel as solid. It is a little less vulnerable to moisture and you can install it in more humid locations. Installation is still not recommended directly over concrete, below grade (ground level or sea level), or in areas where it may become saturated with standing water like bathrooms.

Engineered Woods

Engineered woods are more stable due to their construction, a veneer glued over layered core, similar in construction to plywood with a hardwood top layer known as the wear layer. They are more dimensionally stable than solid wood, meaning they are less vulnerable to moisture, and can be used below grade, directly over concrete, and in any humidity. The hard factory finish assures a long lifespan of 30-60 years depending on quality. In addition, you can print or stain engineered woods to make a less expensive wood resemble a more exotic (and more expensive) choice.

Grades of Wood

You should know that not all woods and manufacturers use this grading system. These are common, general terms, but may not apply to certain kinds of wood – for example Maple. Also, other terms may be in use by wood manufacturers who do not

Prefinished Wood Grades

Clear Grade – The top hardwood flooring grade, indicating very uniform color, no flaws or knots, and longer lengths.

Select & Better – The second best grade, indicating mostly uniform color, no flaws or knots, and longer lengths.

Country or Exclusive Grades – More natural wood character shows in this grade such as variations in color, shorter board average, and small flaws like pinholes and tiny knots are often present.

Traditional, Antique, Character Grades – Planks display a lot of wood character such as variation in color, pinholes and knots, creating a rustic, natural looking floor. Board lengths are usually shorter.

Tavern or Cabin Grade – Planks display a lot of wood such as variation in color, with pinholes and knots very common, creating a rustic, natural looking floor. Board lengths usually average 24″ or less.

Unfinished Wood Grades

Clear Grade – The top hardwood flooring grade, indicating very uniform color, no flaws or knots, and longer lengths.

Select & Better – The second best grade, indicating mostly uniform color, no flaws or knots, and longer lengths.

#1 Common – More natural wood character shows in this grade such as variations in color, shorter board average, and small flaws like pinholes and knots are evident.

#2 Common – Planks display a lot of wood character such as variation in color, pinholes and knots, creating a rustic, natural looking floor. Board lengths are usually shorter.

Shorts – Planks display a lot of wood character such as variation in color, with pinholes and knots very common, creating a rustic, natural looking floor. Board lengths are very short, usually averaging 16″ or less.

Finish

You can prefinished or finish it on-site after it is installed. Prefinished wood flooring has multiple layers of finish applied perfectly even and uniformly. The advantage is a more reliable application resulting in a harder, more durable finish. Site finishing after installation provides a finish more impervious to moisture, without the possibility of cracks between the boards where spills may seep beneath. Site finish is a more expensive installation, and the finished look will be subtly different than that of a prefinished flooring application.

To learn more about hardwood finishes, read our article on The Top Surface Finishes for Hardwood Flooring.

Room Location

You may be planning to floor a bathroom or basement, and those have special considerations. In most cases, you’ll want to choose an engineered wood, and you may want to consider a type of wood common to shipbuilding, like white oak or teak. For installation in a room bathed in sunlight, you may want to consider color change before purchase. Some woods change dramatically when exposed to sunlight, and if you choose a wood for its color, you may be disappointed over time.

Durability

In most cases, traffic in a home is light and doesn’t require special consideration, but some issues may arise when it comes to children and pets or heavily trafficked areas. The durability of the wood – how much traffic it can withstand – is determined by hardness factor, measured on the Janka Scale. Also, by its dimensional stability, which determines how much a wood floor will shift, swell, and contract due to environmental factors such as moisture and changes in weather.

The hardness factor has a wide range of measurements, but it is important to note that harder is better in one respect, not so much in another. Exceptionally hard woods tend to be harder on the legs and feet, produce more impact sounds, and scratch more easily, but wear longer and are less likely to dent. Hardwoods that fall in the middle of the scale will dent more easily, but are warmer, produce less footfall sound, and are easier on the legs and feet. Soft hardwoods may dent very easily, but are easiest on the feet and legs, and often more resistant to ordinary scratch-producers like sand and grit. Some very hard woods have low dimensional stability, and some softer woods have high dimensional stability, which should be considered as well.

Sound

In multi-story installations, including apartments, sound transmission can become an issue. Don’t worry; we have the answer. You can address sound issues by adding underlayment, by assuring that the subfloor is sound, even and flat, and by repairing the joists before installation, or by floating the floor. Type of wood also affects the sound transmission. In general terms: the harder the wood, the louder the sound.

Radiant Heating

Some woods will do fine when installed over radiant heating; others will not. A general rule of thumb is to never install a wood floor over a radiant heating system with a maximum temperature that exceeds 85° F.

Types of Wood

Even within types of wood, you may find variations. With today’s range of finishes, common woods are often dyed or printed to resemble more exotic woods. This means you can often get an expensive look at a fraction of the cost. Here are some of the most common flooring woods used in flooring with a brief description of their natural appearance.

Alder

A popular choice for “shabby chic” décor, alder is a light brown wood with a yellow or pink tinge. It is one of the softer hardwoods.

Ash, White

White ash is very light in color and resembles a pale oak with a distinctive grain pattern and above average hardness.

Beech

Beech has a lot of color variation, reddish brown to creamy white, with distinctive streaks and whorls throughout the wood and a medium hardness factor.

Birch

Birch (most commonly yellow birch) is cream or light brown to medium reddish brown with noticeable but not dramatic color. It has a below average hardness rating and is one of the softer woods.

Bubinga

Bubinga is an exotic wood with a deep, rich reddish color variegated with darker streaks and grain patterns. It is one of the hardest and most durable woods on the market.

Cherry, American (aka Black)

Cherry is a light to medium reddish –brown with a tight, often wavy grain and a satiny, lustrous finish. It is one of the softest hardwoods; however, it has good dimensional stability.

Cherry, Brazilian (aka Jatoba)

Brazilian cherry is one of the hardest woods, ranging in color from medium hued reddish wood with darker streaks.

Cypress, Australian

Australian Cypress is similar to pine, a honey gold to light cream with wavy dark brown streaks and knots, ideal for creating a rustic look.

Hickory

Hickory is medium tan or light reddish brown to creamy white, very similar to pecan. It’s well above average in hardness.

Kempas

Kempas has dramatic color ranging from orange red to reddish brown without much contrast or grain definition, above average hardness rating, but low dimensional stability.

Mahogany, Asian (aka Keruing)

Keruing is a general name assigned to wood from many different species of trees whose wood is nearly indistinguishable. Color varies from pinkish-brown to dark brown without significant contrast. This wood is among the hardest of woods.

Mahogany, Santos

Santos Mahogany is a rich dark reddish brown with darker striations and is exceptionally hard.

Maple, Hard (aka Sugar)

Hard Maple is creamy white to light reddish brown with an above average hardness rating and distinctive grain patterning.

Merbau

Merbau is a rich, lustrous brown or dark reddish brown color that is sometimes sprinkled with flecks of pale gold. It is exceptionally hard and durable.

Mesquite

Mesquite is light brown to dark reddish brown with distinctive patterning from ingrown mineral streaks and is exceptionally hard.

Oak, Red

Red Oak is light in color, reddish in tone and of medium hardness.

Oak, White

White oak heartwood is pale brown in color and may have a pinkish or slightly silver/gray cast with a medium hardness rating.

Padauk

Padauk is a dark, rich reddish or purplish brown or black with little variation in color and a high hardness rating.

Pecan

Pecan wood ranges in color from the reddish brown with dark brown streaks to the creamy pinkish white. It has an above average hardness rating.

Pine (aka Southern Yellow)

Southern Yellow Pine is light yellow to yellowish brown and can have an orange cast with distinctive grain patterns featuring knots and whorls. It is a very soft wood.

Pine, Heart

The term heart pine usually describes wood reclaimed and recycled from old buildings. Its color is warm reddish brown with pale yellow sapwood and some black sap staining. It falls just under the median hardness rating.

Sapele

Sapele is an exotic hardwood with a dark, rich, reddish brown color and a hardness rating well above average.

Teak, Brazilian (aka Cumaru)

Brazilian teak is one of the hardest wood species in the world. It is a fairly uniform light to medium brown and may have a yellow cast.

Teak, True

True teak is medium golden brown with streaks of darker brown. It is one of the softer hardwoods.

Tigerwood

Tigerwood ranges in color from a pale cream to a rich reddish-orange hue with a dramatic streaking pattern. It is well above average in hardness and dimensional stability.

Walnut, American Black

American black walnut is rich dark brown to black with a purple cast. The sapwood is dramatically lighter, but flooring manufacturers usually bleed the color from heartwood to sapwood to minimize difference. It is a softer than average wood.

Walnut, Brazilian (aka Ipe)

Brazilian walnut is a medium to very dark brownish black with little variation and is one of the hardest of woods.

Wenge

Wenge is a rich dark brown wood with thick striping in almost black and high contrast to pale yellowish sapwood. It falls well above average on the hardness scale.

Sustainablity

We’re all worried about the environment today, and concerns about the rainforest are at the forefront of environmental concerns. Most of the issues surrounding deforestation center on illegal logging and irresponsible lack of reforesting. Today, these concerns have led to new regulations and laws. Due to sheer longevity, sustainability, cost-effectiveness, and practicality are inherent values of a hardwood floor. To ensure that you are buying flooring that meets environmental standards, ask the dealer for documentation of compliance with the Lacey Act, or buy flooring harvested and manufactured in the United States or Europe, where no illegal logging currently exists.

Cost Considerations

Once you’ve chosen a hardwood floor, you need to calculate the total cost of your installation. You will need to determine of how much square footage you’ll need plus 10% for waste, along with the cost of underlay, moldings, and trim.

Apart from material costs, here is a list of additional expenditures you may have to factor in during or prior of a wood flooring installation project:

• Furniture removal and replacement: Some professional installers charge to remove your furniture and for moving it back once the installation is complete.
• Removing old floor covering: Your previous/old floor covering may need to be removed and disposed of. Some installers charge extra, so to save money, consider doing it yourself.
• Subfloor preparation: If your subfloor needs to be repaired or treated for unevenness, then pre-installation work may incur additional charges. Be sure to ask your installer to review your substrate.
• Installation: be sure your flooring calculations include the cost of materials and all installation costs.
• Accessories installation: If the installation procedure requires accessories/additional material/tools to install wood properly, be sure to find out if this step is included in the installation agreement.

Before You Begin

Hire a Professional or DIY?

The answer to this question depends on several factors, not the least of which is your experience with a saw. End pieces and floor sections that intersect and have to fit around things attached to the floor – pipes, cabinets, or built in bookcases, for example – will need to be sawn to exact specifications. If you don’t feel confident to measure and saw accurately, you may be better off hiring a professional or finding a friend with more experience to lend a hand.

Many engineered flooring styles have click-lock installations that require no glue or nails and little experience. Installation is fast and easy, even for a beginner. Solid woods offer more of a challenge. They must be nailed, glued, or stapled, and require more experience and a little more finesse. Another consideration is whether you’ve chosen prefinished or unfinished wood. Unfinished wood requires multiple sanding and finish cycles using a powerful drum sander. Improper sanding can ruin the floor. Unless you have experience with a drum sander, we do not recommend you try this on your own.

If you decide to do it yourself, here’s what you need to know:

Subfloors

There are different types of subfloor, but before installing wood flooring over any type, you must ensure that the subfloor is flat and even. Here are some basic tips for each type of subfloor:

Concrete Subfloors

• If this is a new home, the concrete slab should be allowed to cure for at least 6-12 weeks before wood flooring is installed.
• Using a moisture meter, make sure that the moisture content of the concrete meets the flooring manufacturer recommendations.
• Even if the moisture content is low, consider using an underlayment with a moisture barrier if installing directly onto concrete.

Wood Subfloors and Joists

• Wood subfloors are often installed over concrete slabs on the ground floor, so perform the same moisture test to be sure the subfloor is suitable for wood installation.
• Test the floor for squeaks and weak spots. Some repairs can be made by simply nailing down corners or tightening screws, but you may need to replace wood over mushy spots and possibly even level the concrete beneath.
• Look for anything that protrudes – staples, nail, or screw heads and corners that aren’t level are common.

Upper Level Floors

• If installing on an upper level, check the joists. Make sure they are tightly anchored. Shifting joists cause squeaks.
• Consider a floating installation with padding under the floor to dampen sound transmission.

Basements and Bathrooms

• Have the wood, including the matching moldings, delivered to the room where the floor will be installed. Allow it to sit flat and unwrapped for several days prior to installation. This allows the wood to adjust to the ambient humidity in the room.
• Don’t install on days when the forecast calls for rain, or during a week when it has been exceptionally rainy. The moisture content in the air can cause the wood to swell too much, and can result in gaps when the air returns to normal humidity levels. The goal is to install when the air is at its most normal humidity level, leaving space at the edges for normal expansion.

Acclimatization

• Have the wood, including the matching moldings, delivered to the room where the floor will be installed. Allow it to sit flat and unwrapped for several days prior to installation. This allows the wood to adjust to the ambient humidity in the room.
• Don’t install on days when the forecast calls for rain, or during a week when it has been exceptionally rainy. The moisture content in the air can cause the wood to swell too much, and can result in gaps when the air returns to normal humidity levels. The goal is to install when the air is at its most normal humidity level, leaving space at the edges for normal expansion.

Pattern and Grain

Most woods have some variation in color, and installing them out willy-nilly can result in a strange arrangement of dark and light patches. Before you begin permanent installation of the floor, lay out the boards and arrange them in a design that suits your taste. There’s no right or wrong pattern, and most people arrange the color variations randomly so that the color is evenly spaced. However, choosing boards that most closely match the baseboards and trim along the walls will result in a more harmonious overall look.

In addition, you may want to consider direction. The most traditional installation begins along the longest wall (usually the outside wall). Diagonal positioning is also possible, but trickier to install.

Accessories

Installing a wood floor doesn’t end at choosing the right wood. You’ll also need the right underlayment, moisture barrier, moldings and trim to finish the project. Make sure your dealer has products that complement the wood you’ve chosen.

Moldings and Trim

• Base shoe molding – A combination of the baseboard and quarter round; a flat profile, with a rounded lip at the bottom of the molding. This molding is used when shallower profiles are required – behind bookshelves, for instance.
• End molding – A transition molding used when level differences between two rooms are even greater, or when looking to find a transition between a wood floor and a sliding glass door, for instance.
• Reducer molding – A transition molding placed flat on a floor between two rooms that have slight level differences – between wood flooring and tile, for example.
• T molding – A transition molding used between two rooms of the same level. This type of molding is shaped like a “T” when looked at in a cross-section.
• Stair Nose molding – For use when making a transition between a wood floor and stairs. The molding hooks over the edge of the first stair, with one edge on the surface of the flooring, and the other on the vertical face of the stair.
• Quarter round molding – Used in the same way as a base shoe molding, behind cabinets where a low profile molding is better suited to support an object flush against the wall.
• Baseboards – A very commonly known molding with a flat vertical surface or “profile,” used in the same way as a quarter round; a transition between floor and wall.

Underlayment

Underlayment is a material placed between the sub-floor and the wood floor to provide cushioning, sound absorption and a barrier to moisture. It comes in large rolls or as separate pieces that can be taped together. The use of an underlayment speeds installation, reduces walking noise, improves flooring stability, and provides superior support.

• Remove the shoe molding from around the baseboard and also the doors from the installation area to be covered.
• The flooring planks need additional space to fit under doorframes. Place a piece of underlayment and laminate flooring next to the jamb to determine the required height, and cut out the desired area of the frame.
• Install the underlayment and make sure the edges don’t overlap. To prevent them from shifting, tape the pieces together. Create an expansion gap between the underlayment and walls by using spacers.
• If you’re installing a wood floor over a concrete slab, apply a vapor barrier before installing the underlayment.

Installation

All wood flooring commercially available today has a tongue and groove construction for a precise fit. Engineered wood flooring may be glueless and fit together by clicking into place, or may require glue or staples to aid installation.

Solid wood flooring requires glue, staples, or nails for installation. Some wood choices may only be installed by one method or the other, for example, nailing is usually the preferred method for most thick solid woods, but may cause edge splintering for some of the thinner solids, making another method preferable. The manufacturer will provide information about the preferred method of installation for the specific type of flooring you’ve chosen.

All wood flooring types require expansion room around the edges of the floor. Spacers are available to help keep this expansion room even around the room. Trim is designed to cover the gaps left by the expansion room.

Installation Tips

• Start the installation from the left corner of the room. Cut off the tongue of the planks, and run them parallel to the wall with the help of expansion spacers.
• Install each plank by inserting one end into the other at an angle and pressing down.
• On reaching the end of the row, measure and trim the last plank to fit.
• Cut a new plank similar to the pattern of the first row and start the next row with this plank.
• Lift the previous row slightly to fit the next planks into position. Now give a sharp rap to the next line of boards with your hand to fully engage and press them down firmly.
• Continue with this procedure with the rest of the flooring.
• The last row should be the same width as the first row. Trace the wall outline and remember to leave space for expansion.
• Trim and remove excess plastic sheeting and spacers. Reinstall baseboards without nailing to the floor.
• Flooring should extend under the doorframe. Use a piece of scrap flooring to mark the depth that the doorframe should be trimmed.

After Installation

Once you’ve installed your beautiful new hardwood floor, you’ll need to know how to maintain it. We’ve put together extensive resources for maintenance, cleaning, repair, refinishing and restoring your floor to its original showroom beauty.

Care and Maintenance

You’ll be happy to know that wood floors are easy to care for and maintain. The most important things you can do to maintain the beauty of wood floors is sweep or vacuum and keep them dry – mop up wet spills immediately. Other than that, an occasional damp mopping with a simple vinegar and water solution or with a commercial product made specifically for your type of wood (check with the manufacturer) is all that’s needed.

Common Repairs

Any hard surface flooring can become scratched, chipped or dented over time. There are a number of repairs you can do without bringing in a professional.

Scratches

Many surface scratches only affect the finish and can be repaired by lightly buffing with steel wool followed application of mineral spirits. Deeper scratches can be repaired with a light sanding followed by application of wood filler in a color that closely matches the floor. Serious gouges may require overfilling, sanding and re-staining of the plank to match the rest of the floor. Always sand with the grain, and vacuum between sandings to remove any grit. You may also want to consider a wood repair kit with fillers and markers available in popular wood colors.

Dents

Softer wood floors may dent from impact or weight. To repair a dent where the wood has not cracked or broken, first try a method of steam to raise the indented area. Place a damp towel in the dent or steam it using a hot iron (or alternate both methods). If it works, you may have to sand the spot to make it level. If the dent is too deep, to fill the dent with an epoxy, wood inlay, or lacquer lay-in, or as a last resort, replace the board.

Gaps

Over time, gaps may appear between the boards in your floor. Depending on the size of the gaps, you may use wood filler or putty, following with stain to match the floor. For wider gaps, you may choose to use wedges of wood, called shims, which can be inserted into the cracks and then sanded and stained to match. Extensive gaps are usually a result of poor installation or of installation in an area too humid for the wood.

Refinishing

One of the most common questions people ask is whether their wood floor can be refinished if it becomes damaged or dull over time. The answer depends on the type of floor you have. Solid wood and most high-end engineered floors can be sanded and restored to the original beauty with the number of times depending on thickness of the wear layer. The average is 5 – 7 times over the life of the floor.

Less expensive engineered floors have a thin veneer that cannot be sanded, but they can be screened to remove layers of varnish that have dulled and re-varnished to restore the luster if the finish becomes cloudy or marred.

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Mazama Hardwood – Smooth South American Collection /  SKU: 10080076

Our hardwood flooring checklist will help you understand what you need to know before purchasing this amazing flooring option. This article will help you get all your facts in line so that you can make the most informed choice and get the most for your hardwood flooring dollar.

To start, here’s a brief video that goes over some of the absolute basics when it comes to buying hardwood floors. It touches on character, flooring board dimensions, hardwood photosensitivity, possible color changes, and surface hardness. Click on the button below to watch the video and kick off the hardwood flooring checklist!

Is Hardwood the Right Floor for You?

There are a number of questions you must ask before knowing whether or not a hardwood floor is the best choice for you. Hardwood offers a lot of advantages and only a few disadvantages. If you are unsure if hardwood is the best choice, learn if hardwood is right for you.

Once the decision to buy a hardwood floor has been made, several other things must be considered before the flooring can be bought and installed. Asking these questions beforehand will help to prevent a potential disaster in the long run.

What is Best for My Situation? There are a number of things to consider that will help you determine what is best for your project.

Where is the room located? Is the room below grade, on grade or above grade? Standard solid hardwood cannot be installed below grade, but thin profile solid and engineered hardwood can both be installed below grade.

What is the purpose of the room? What will the room be used for? Rooms subject to moisture exposure will be better off using an engineered hardwood rather than a solid – and if they are subject to high levels of moisture (e.g. a bathroom), they are probably are not suited for a hardwood floor at all.

Are you installing over in-floor radiant heating? Solid hardwood cannot be installed over radiant heating. However, most engineered hardwood floors are suitable for installation over radiant heating.

What will the traffic be like in the room? If the room is one expected to receive high traffic volume, the species of flooring will likely need to be a harder wood. Though it’s true that wood floors are going to respond to how they are cared for and both a hard and soft wood will show age if not properly maintained, harder woods subjected to high traffic are less likely to show wear and tear when they are cared for correctly.

Are there children or pets in the home? Children and pets are likely to be hard on the flooring, so choosing a durable species is important. Pets’ claws will scratch the surface, and children will spill and run their toys across it. Take extra precautions to ensure the floor is protected.

Does the room contain a door to the outside? If the room contains a door to the outside, dirt and other debris will make its way into the room, scratching the surface of the flooring and making it show wear and tear much sooner than other rooms without a door to the outside. Be sure to use non-staining rugs and doormats in the room to lessen the chance of damaging debris being strewn throughout the room.

What is the “feel” of the room? There are several potential “feels” one can create for a room. If the room is casual, certain hardwood choices and grades will be better than others, and the same is true if the room has a more formal feel to it. Two examples of different styles are smooth, elegant select and better grade versus a hand scraped, more antique look. This, in combination with the colors and styles, will help make a final hardwood choice.

How much exposure to sunlight does the room get? If there are many different windows where sunlight will come through, this is important to consider because extended exposure to sunlight will lead to discoloration of certain light sensitive hardwood species over time. To combat this, look for a UV coated floor and/or rotate furniture and rugs in the room to prevent any one area of the floor from getting too much sunlight for too long.

How much do I need? Determining what you need is relatively easy. Measure the dimensions of the room in which you’ll be installing the floor and multiply length x width to get the total square footage. Always make sure to order 10% more than you need. This will cover off any boards that come damaged or become damaged during the installation process. It also provides you with some extra in the event you need to make a future repair. If you’re not sure how to calculate your square footage need you can always ask your dealer for help.

What Type of Hardwood does the Seller Offer?

Second on our hardwood buying checklist is options. The seller should be able to tell you the various hardwood options they offer and at what price range.

Do they offer solid and engineered hardwood? Solid hardwood is all hardwood. Engineered uses a plywood or high density fiberboard core with a layer of real, solid hardwood on the top. While engineered hardwood flooring, is better suited for areas subjected to additional moisture and, unlike solid hardwood, can be installed below grade or over concrete, it can only be sanded and refinished a limited number of times before it must be replaced, depending on the thickness of the wear layer. Consider which room of the home where the flooring will be used before making this choice.

Do they know how the flooring is manufactured? For solid hardwood, is it flat sawn, quarter sawn or rift sawn? The way it is made will affect price, but it will also have an impact on durability. Flat and quarter sawn planks have an increased chance of trying to revert to their natural shape, which leads to cupping and crowning of the flooring over time. For engineered, how

Do they offer formaldehyde-safe engineered hardwood? Engineered hardwood is made by gluing together a plywood or high density fiberboard core with a real hardwood veneer. The adhesives used must meet safe emissions standards for indoor air quality, such as E1 or E0 class or be CARB-compliant. The seller should have this information.

What species do they have? Some people prefer a certain species of hardwood regardless of the other factors. Narrowing the spectrum down to one or two different species will help the hardwood buying process along. Each species has a different hardness, as measure by the Janka Hardness Scale. What does the seller recommend for your situation?

What grades do they have? While there is no universal grading system in place for hardwood flooring, each manufacturer usually sets one in place to describe the appearance of the hardwood in the box. If pinholes, knots, and color variations are not a concern, lower grade floors are the way to go. If people are looking for flooring with little color variation, and little natural character with knots and pinholes, higher grade flooring will be necessary. Discuss the grading system in use with each manufacturer with a sales representative.

Do they offer different surface textures? Besides a smooth, machine milled texture, there are a few other options which will add a touch of decor and character to the room. Distressed hardwood, either by hand or by machine, gives the wood an antique , character look which may be the perfect choice for you. Discuss these options with the sales representatives to see the differences between the styles.

What color choices do they offer? If the flooring is tying together other elements of decor, choosing a floor based on its color and style may narrow down the options. If there is a certain color or style to keep in mind, alert the sales representatives for help.

Can I install the product myself, or should I hire a professional? There are several options when it comes to installing a hardwood floor and the seller should be able to tell you which products are easy to install and which ones may require hiring a professional installer. You may wish to choose a product based on how it can be installed.

What is included in the warranty? Your hardwood floor will be guaranteed against defects. Most hardwoods come with a finish warranty and a structural warranty against defects in the product. Some warranties cover a decade others are lifetime warranties. In general, the longer the warranty, the higher the price. Try to pick the hardwood with the warranty you’re most comfortable with. In other words, read the warranty before you buy.

Jasper Engineered Hardwood – Baltic Oak Collection / SKU: 15001759

Here are some useful links:

How Hardwood Flooring is Made – learn how both solid and engineered hardwood are made and how this affects price.

Hardwood Types and Grades – learn about the different construction types, installation options, textures and more

Hardwood Species – learn about the different species and their unique characteristics

Janka Hardness Scale – learn the relative hardness of the different species of hardwood

Colors, Finishes and More – learn about the finer details of hardwood flooring, including color options, finish types, edge details, lengths, widths, inlays and installation patterns.

Moldings, Trims and More – learn about the different types of moldings, trims and transition pieces you will need to complete your project

Where Should I Buy My Hardwood Floor?

Another consideration in the hardwood buying checklist lies in where the purchase will be made. There are many offline traditional brick and mortar establishments; however, making the purchase online may provide additional cost savings.

Either way, it is best to go with someone who you feel is knowledgeable and that you can trust. Beyond product knowledge, the question below may help you decide who is the best choice to buy from.

Can I take home a sample? Samples are vital to decision making. You may not only want to take a sample home but you may want to take home and keep more than one sample, depending on how long it takes you to make your final decision. Some retailers will offer you a sample book that you can borrow, while others ask you to pay a nominal $2-$5 refundable fee per sample. Others will offer you free samples. Do what's right for you and make sure you don't feel rushed.

How much will it cost? Most hardwood flooring is warehoused in varying locations across North America. Some retailers have warehouses themselves and ship directly from there. One way or another, the cost of warehousing (and sometimes the cost of shipping) ends up in the cost of your product. So finding out the final, delivered price with taxes, duties (if any) and shipping is the best way to comparison shop by price. The final price you pay for shipping and delivery will depend, to some degree, on all these factors and especially on how far your job site is from where the product is stored or manufactured. Be sure to compare final, delivered prices when comparison shopping.

Is there a minimum order? Some retailers set minimum orders some don't. Or there may be minimum orders on certain products. Large minimum orders are usually indicative of better pricing. Check with your seller.

What about matching moldings, trims and accessories for my hardwood floor? You'll probably need matching moldings, trims and transition pieces for your hardwood floor. You may also need accessories such as underlayment and adhesives depending on the type of hardwood floor you buy. Does the seller offer these or do you have to source them separately?

What about financing? Redoing your floors can be expensive. That's why some people opt to pay for their new flooring over time. If you prefer to buy your floors this way then you'll have to find a retailer that offers you financing. For example, BuildDirect and Affirm recently partnered to offer easy monthly payment plans with flexible options.

Is there a return policy? Some sellers will not accept returns at all, while others have very flexible return policies – in some cases even paying return shipping costs. It's a good idea to review the vendor's return policy before making your purchase.

What if there are damages upon delivery? When it comes to damages, your retailer should rectify whatever problems might arise to your satisfaction. Whether that's a money-back guarantee or replacing the damaged products, your retailer must ensure the quality of the product you buy. However, you must also be aware that a good rule-of-thumb is to order 10% more than you think you need. This ensures you’ll have enough material in case of a few damaged boards as well as having enough in the event you need to make future repairs.

What if I’m not happy with my hardwood floor once installed? You're already aware of the manufacturer's warranty but the problem you're having with your floor isn't about that. It's about… well, the fact that you don't like your floor. What will your retailer do for you? Picking your hardwood floor can be difficult and if you make a mistake with the color or style, you'll have to alert your retailer before you install it. Some vendors have a policy that will cover this, others won't. However, virtually no one will let you return your floor once it's installed. Make sure you're sure before you install!

We hope this hardwood buying checklist has been helpful! Bookmark it for future reference during your buying process.

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