If you’re looking for new flooring that’s easy to install, floating floors are an excellent solution. This type of flooring gets its name from the way that it’s installed, which requires no nails or adhesives. Instead, floating floors simply lock in place and can usually be installed directly over most types of existing flooring. The Defiant collection from Lamton is a leading floating floor option that can withstand all types of abuse. This flooring is available at the price of $1.99 per square foot with free shipping from BuildDirect until March 1, 2021. It comes in six stunning colors and is embossed with 3D patterns to create an authentic hardwood look. These floating floors are water-resistant and have a high abrasion rating that can handle heavy foot traffic for amazing longevity. If you’re interested in finding out more about floating floors, read on to learn about them and how they’re installed.

Waterproof Floating FloorsFrom spilled coffee to wet bathrooms, waterproof engineered flooring gives you the beauty of hardwood without the stress. This type of flooring is easy to clean and won’t become warped or buckled after exposure to moisture. Consider installing waterproof engineered hardwood flooring in your home if you have children or pets to protect your investment. You’ll find a range of wood flooring waterproof options at BuildDirect, including Lamton Laminate which provides the look of wood without the fuss. From the bathrooms to your gourmet open kitchen, choosing waterproof engineered wood flooring is a smart choice that adds beauty to your home for years to come.

Floating laminate flooring installation

If you’re considering installing floating laminate flooring in your home, the process is easy with the right preparation and tools. Here are some step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process.

Step 1: Determine How Much Flooring to Buy

Before you can install any type of flooring, you’ll need to figure out how much you should buy. Measure the length and width of the room, then multiply those numbers and add 10-percent to the total as a cushion for any excess waste. Another thing to consider is the size of the planks, so make sure that you purchase enough flooring to cover each room completely with a little bit leftover in case you make a mistake. Installation methods vary by different manufacturers, but a floating floor generally has the same installation process regardless of the brand.

Step 2: Prepare the Room

It’s crucial to prep the room before you install your new floating floors. Remove all moldings, floor trim, and baseboard, and put everything aside. You can also purchase new trim if you want to elevate the space and add a nice look to go with your new floors. Depending on the height of the new flooring, you may need to cut door jambs and casings to ensure a proper fit. Simply set a piece of scrap flooring on top of the underlayment and draw a line next to the casing or jamb, tracing it with a pencil. This will mark the height you need to cut so that your new floors will fit snugly underneath. Finally, vacuum your floors and remove all debris before you begin the installation.

Step 3: Install the Underlayment

Underlayment is thin padding made of foam that helps correct imperfections in the subfloor and keeps your laminate flooring snugly in place. Start in one corner of the room and unroll the underlayment in the same direction as your new floors. Do not overlap the underlayment. Make sure that each of the edges is directly next to each other. You can cut the underlayment with a utility knife so it fits around obstacles and corners.

Step 4: Tape the Underlayment Seams

Use polyethylene tape to secure the seams of the underlayment in place. This creates a moisture barrier and is particularly vital if you’re installing floating floors over concrete, such as in a basement.

Step 5: Check the Materials

Now is the time to ensure that your new flooring is in good condition before installation. Open a few boxes and look for any signs of damage like splinters, chipping, or evidence of dust lodged in the tongue or grooves. Anything that looks out of place can prevent your new floor planks from locking together and forming a smooth, tight seam. If everything looks OK, it’s time to begin installing the floors.

Step 6: Planning and Cutting

The first row of flooring should be lined against the most visible wall and laid parallel to the longest wall in each room. Leave around a ¼-inch space between the flooring edge and walls as well as near the base of any cabinets. This helps the floors expand and contract as humidity levels change. You may also use a ¼-inch spacer as a guide. Any cuts to this type of flooring should be minimal except when you need to cut off an end piece on a row. Laminate is easy to cut, and all you need is a square to mark the line and a saber saw to make the cuts.

Step 7: Install Floor Planks

You want your floor planks to have a close-fitting seam, so place the last plank against the wall and use a pry bar to force it gently against the one beside it. The goal is to ensure that the tongue fits tightly into the groove. Mix and match your planks as you go, using material from different boxes. This will ensure a natural, organic look and provide more variations in color and tone.

Step 8: Install Rows of Wood

When installing rows, work from right to left and place the planks with the tongue side facing the wall. Angle the next board so that the tongue and groove snap together. Continue this process until you’ve completed one row, making sure to maintain a ¼-inch space between the flooring and the wall. You may need to cut the last plank of the row, but you can use any leftover material to start your next row to create a clean, staggered look. Use a hammering block and gently tap each piece into place until they form a tight seam.

Step 9: Cut A Cardboard Template

You may run into some tricky spots around door jambs or cabinets. Use a piece of stiff cardboard and trace the outline to create a template. Use this cardboard as your guide to make your cuts or to wedge the plank into place. You might be able to lightly shave a bit of the floor plank off from the bottom so it can be placed directly under the door jamb.

Step 10: Cut Plank Lengthwise

When you reach the last row of flooring, you may need to cut it lengthwise with a jigsaw in order to make it fit. Use the saw to rip the plank lengthwise so that it fits perfectly against the wall and is the correct width for a secure fit.

Cut the Tongue off of the Plank

If you need to cut the tongue off of a plank, use a sharp chisel or utility knife to remove it from the plank you are installing against.

Clamp Wood in Place

To attach the flat ends of planks together, clamp them into place and use white wood glue. Keep them clamped together for about 30 minutes or until the glue is fully set.

Install the Last Row

The last row of your flooring may be a bit more difficult to install. Remove the spacers to give you extra room and use a pry bar to gently pull the last piece tightly against the one before it. You may need to slide it into place using a block and hammer. If you’re gluing planks together, wait until it’s completely cured before you remove any spacers and painter’s tape and before you trim out the room with the molding around the perimeter of the room.

Step 11: Bad Laminate Installation

There are some signs to look for that may indicate a bad laminate installation. This usually occurs when the floor is installed too close to the walls, causing the planks to rise and hump across the middle. Another cause is when long screws or nails are installed through the floating floor, which can cause each piece to become uneven and buckle.

One Way to Repair Laminate Floors

If you have an issue with your laminate floors, start by removing the baseboard on each side of the room to ensure that the planks are tight against the wall. You may need to remove the last row of flooring to make repairs. If so, be careful not to damage the planks unless you have some extra materials left over. Use a pull bar to get under the edge of the plank, then use a hammer to gently tap it, pulling the bar sideways until it comes loose. If there’s evidence of nails or screws, you may need to completely remove these planks and reinstall new ones for a tight, smooth fit.

Floating floor FAQs

Do you put a floating floor under appliances?

You can install floating floors under appliances, but make sure there is enough space between each plank so that it can adjust due to the variations of humidity and moisture in your kitchen. It’s best to install the flooring first, then place the appliances on top of it.

How does a floating floor stay in place?

Floating floors use a tongue and groove design that allows them to attach together. With the right amount of spacing around the perimeter of the room, they can easily expand and contract with humidity fluctuations while staying in place.

How do you install floating laminate flooring?

Measure your room, gather your materials, and install each section row by row, making sure that they’re snugly attached together. Underlayment is recommended on concrete floors. Only minor cuts are needed when you reach the last row so that the planks fit securely.

Is a floating floor easy to install?

A floating floor is easy to install and does not require messy adhesives, screws, or nails. Most homeowners can install this type of flooring DIY with the right installation information and few simple tools.

Do you need underlayment for laminate flooring?

Underlayment is a layer of foam that provides a protective moisture barrier for your laminate flooring. It’s especially recommended when installing this type of flooring over concrete or in wet spaces like kitchens and bathrooms.

How much does it cost to have a floating floor installed?

Floating floors cost an average of between $2 and $8 per square foot. If you’re hiring a professional to install your floors, the national average is approximately $2,300 for a 300-square foot room.

How long does it take to install a floating floor?

The length of time it takes to install a floating floor depends on the size of the room and how much preparation is needed. Aside from prep time, it can take between 3-4 hours to install the flooring and an additional 2-3 hours to make cuts and install it around door jambs and cabinets.

What is the advantage of a floating floor?

Floating floors come in a variety of styles including vinyl, laminate, and engineered hardwoods. This flooring is beautiful, extremely durable, and very easy to install, making it a favorite among DIYers.

Why is my floating floor buckling?

Your floating floor may be buckling due to improper installation. If nails or screws were inserted into the floors, it can cause them to buckle. Another reason may be that there was not enough space around the edge of the room to allow the material to expand and contract.

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Whether you’re planning to install new hardwood flooring or you love the vintage wood flooring in your home, protecting it from wear and tear is essential. After all, wood floors are incredibly strong and durable, but all flooring experiences scratches and shows signs of wear over time. That’s why taking appropriate precautions is important. Follow these four tips to prevent scratches, keep wear to a minimum, and enjoy your beautiful wood floors for years to come.

Protect Wood Floors From Heavy Furniture

Bold furniture can look striking against hardwood floors, but heavy tables, bookcases, sofas, and armchairs can easily scratch your floors if you aren’t careful. To keep furniture-related scratches and gouges minimal, make a point of lifting rather than pushing or sliding heavy furniture. After all, it’s easy to damage floors when moving or dragging furniture, so recruit a partner and move furniture safely.

Not all scratches result from moving furniture across a room. Minor shifts can add up, eventually creating deep gouges in your hardwood flooring. To prevent this type of damage over time, place pads or wheels underneath every table, chair, and sofa leg. Keep in mind that wheels allow for easier movement, but they could cause impact-related damage if you place them underneath particularly heavy pieces. Cork pads are best for heavy furniture you don’t plan to move, while felt furniture pads allow you to move chairs and coffee tables more smoothly.

For an extra layer of protection between the furniture and the hardwood flooring, consider placing area rugs throughout the room. Rugs can prevent heavy sofas and armchairs from scratching bamboo or hardwood floors, while adding color and visual appeal to the space. If you’re concerned about particularly heavy pieces leaving dents in the flooring below, add a carpet pad underneath your rug of choice.

Shield Wood Flooring From Shoes

In comparison to weighty items like sofas and sideboards, shoes may not seem like such significant threats to wood flooring. While footwear certainly doesn’t weigh as much as furniture does, it can still scratch the surface, especially if you install hardwood or bamboo flooring in high-traffic areas.

To shield wood flooring from shoes, consider asking family members and guests to refrain from wearing their shoes or at least certain types of footwear on your hardwood floors. Stilettos and cleats can be particularly damaging, since their sharp edges can easily scratch both the finish and the wood itself.

While protecting wood floors from hard-soled shoes can help prevent damage, even sneakers and soft-soled shoes can cause scratches. Every time you walk across hardwood floors, you press grit, sand, rocks, and other substances into the floor, which can scratch the finish over time. To keep this type of damage minimal, place rugs inside exterior doors and encourage family members to wipe their feet.

Make a point of sweeping or vacuuming hardwood floors regularly to prevent gritty substances from accumulating and scratching the surface. Mopping can also help keep your floors clean, but be sure the material can handle moisture before applying a wet mop. For example, most hardwood and engineered wood flooring can handle moisture, but water can damage bamboo flooring.

Prevent Pets From Scratching Hardwood Floors

Whether you have dogs or cats, you want your pets to enjoy your hardwood floors as much as you do. While the average pet won’t deliberately scratch your floors, simply walking across a wood floor can cause damage, especially if your pet has longer claws.

To prevent your dog from scratching the floor, make a point of trimming its claws regularly. Whether that means more frequent trips to the groomer or weekly sessions with a pet-friendly nail file, keeping claws short and smooth can go a long way toward preventing unsightly scratches. Taking your dog for daily walks can also help with claw control, as walking on the pavement can file claws down naturally.

Keeping your cat’s claws neatly trimmed might not be as easy, but that doesn’t mean you can’t protect your floors adequately from pets. Rather than leaving wood floors bare and prone to scratches, try placing area rugs or floor runners on hardwood or bamboo floors. Pay attention to areas where your pets tend to tread and be sure to cover their usual pathways. You’ll protect the floor while providing your pets with a surface that’s easier for them to navigate.

Choose the Most Protective Topcoats and Finishes

To give your wood flooring the best possible chance of resisting scratches and other damage, it’s important to choose the most effective topcoats and finishes. Keep in mind that you can order many types of hardwood and bamboo flooring with additional protective layers, but you can also apply a more effective finish later. Take a look at some options for protecting wood floors:

• Wax: One of the oldest options for protecting your floors, wax is also one of the least durable and requires frequent touch-ups and refinishes.
• Oil-Based Polyurethane: A tough finish that’s easy for DIYers to apply, oil-based polyurethane is an affordable option for protecting your floors. Note that it has a high volatile organic compound (VOC) content, so you should always use a mask when applying this finish.
• Water-Based Polyurethane: One of the most common wood flooring finishes, water-based polyurethane is straightforward to apply, dries quickly, and has a low VOC content. It can also protect your floors, but it’s less effective than oil-based polyurethane.
• Moisture-Cured Urethane: One of the hardest finishes available, moisture-cured urethane is a smart choice for making your hardwood floors more durable. Note that professionals should apply this finish, which is known for producing excessive fumes.
• Aluminum Oxide: A popular choice for bamboo flooring, aluminum oxide is one of the most durable finish options. Note that this finish is only available for new, prefinished flooring, and you can’t usually refinish it if it sustains damage or wear. Instead, you’ll typically need to replace it altogether.

When you choose the highest quality wood flooring and prevent the surface from experiencing wear and tear, your floors can look and feel like new for years to come. Keep these tips handy to protect your wood floors from furniture, shoes, pets, and other types of objects that cause scratches.

Resources

https://www.builddirect.com/r/Wood-Flooring

https://www.builddirect.com/Engineered-Hardwood-Floors

https://www.builddirect.com/r/Bamboo-Flooring

https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/keep-your-hardwood-floor/

https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/repair-scratch-dent-hardwood-floors/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/scratches-on-bamboo-floors/

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Wood Flooring Installation Mistakes to Avoid

1. Not Preparing the Subfloor

The condition of your subfloor will have a direct impact on the quality of your hardwood floors. When the subfloor is not properly prepared before installation, it can lead to a number of problems, such as loose boards and loud creaking noises. Over time, you may need to replace select wood planks or deal with cracked or warped floors as a result of these issues.

Don’t rush the process when working on your subfloors before installing the new wood flooring. The better the condition of your subfloors, the longer your wood floors will remain in good condition over the years to come.

2. Forgetting to Check Moisture Levels

Humidity has a direct impact on wood flooring. When conditions are dry, the wood planks contract. When moisture is present, the wood flooring starts to expand. When the boards are installed at either of these two extremes, you’re more likely to see issues develop over time.

For example, wood floors installed during a dry winter will be at their most contracted state, and when the weather heats up and becomes more humid, the boards expand and can begin to crack due to the increased pressure. However, wood floors installed when the weather is quite humid and warm are already expanded. When the weather becomes cool and dry during the winter, the boards contract and homeowners notice gaps between the boards.

If you live in a climate that experiences cold, dry winters and hot, humid summers, take moisture levels into account before you install wood flooring. Those who live in milder climates may not experience these issues.

3. Creating a Lazy Layout

Even if it appears that your home has right angles at every corner, your rooms are not likely to be perfectly square. When you hastily start installing wood floors, you may find out that the planks look odd in certain places or need to be cut at strange angles to fit.

Since wood planks create long lines that run across your floors, a poor layout will be particularly noticeable. You want to produce highly accurate measurements of the floors you’ll be covering before you get started on installation. By planning out all your work ahead of time, you can spot any potential problems before it’s too late to undo your work.

4. Going the Bad Racking Route

With wood flooring, “racking” simply means planning the order in which the boards will be installed. Racking a hardwood floor makes the installation process go smoothly while also ensuring an attractive look once everything is in place. When you don’t rack your wood planks or you rush the process, you can end up with a floor that has too many joints clustered together in one spot or an odd placement of different lengths, grain patterns, or wood tones.

5. Not Nailing Enough

It may seem that your boards are securely in place as you go through the installation process. However, you’ll want to carefully install each plank with enough fasteners to prevent loose boards, creaking, and other issues in the future. Don’t rely on snugly installed planks to hold enough of the other pieces in place. In addition, avoid rushing through the project since haste may make you more likely to forget to nail down each plank properly.

How Can You Avoid These Common Wood Flooring Installation Mistakes?

The flooring mistakes above may be the most common, but fortunately, they are also easy to avoid. Use the following tips to make sure your wood flooring is installed properly.

• Let Wood Floors Acclimate to the Environment: Allow the wood floors to sit in your home for several days to acclimate before beginning the installation process. Avoid issues with moisture levels in the air by installing your wood floors in the spring or fall when moisture levels are in between the two extremes of dry and humid conditions.
• Prepare Subfloors Properly: Your subfloors should be clean, dry, and flat before installing wood flooring. You should also make sure you’re not installing your wood floors on an inappropriate subfloor, such as particleboard.
• Measure Carefully: Use accurate measurements to help lay the flooring in a way that looks best in your home. Avoid awkward positioning, such as boards that need to be cut very narrow to fit in front of a doorway or staircase.
• Lay Out Everything: Use the racking process as a chance to lay out your floors and make sure you like the look before you get started with the installation. Move planks around as needed to get a nicer look, especially in highly visible areas such as entryways, stair landings, or in front of a fireplace.
• Include Enough Fasteners: You should have at least two fasteners per plank. If the planks are wide, you may need to include more fasteners.
• Hire a Pro: If you’re feeling unsure about this type of DIY project, hire a professional to install your wood flooring instead. Although having pros, such as BuildDirect PROs, complete your wood flooring installation will cost more, you’ll avoid the costs of repairs that may be needed down the road if you fail to install them properly yourself. Hiring a pro is also a good idea for site-finished flooring, nail-down flooring, and unusual room configurations.

Now that you know which common wood flooring installation mistakes to watch out for, you should be able to more easily complete this DIY home improvement project successfully. Laying wood floors takes much work, so if you feel overwhelmed by the task, don’t hesitate to get professionals to help out with the job.

The post 5 Common Wood Flooring Installation Mistakes appeared first on Learning Center.

If you want to spend a weekend remodeling part of your home, many times you’ll need to remove wood trim first. Whether you’re taking down a wall or sanding wood floors, you’ll need to remove any trim before you begin. This process isn’t as easy as it sounds; casing, molding, or baseboards can easily splinter and break if you’re not careful. Trim tends to be thin and made of softwood, which isn’t made to be taken out and reinstalled. However, you can accomplish this work without making a mess or wasting money if you know what steps to take.

Tools You’ll Need

To begin, you’ll need the correct tools, such as the following:

• Wood putty
• Pry bar
• Lineman’s pliers
• Needle-nose pliers
• Light hammer
• Wood wedge

Make sure you have these tools before you begin so that you don’t need to stop your work halfway to find the tools you need. Many hardware stores will have these supplies, and you can ask an employee if you need help finding a specific tool.

Score a Piece of Baseboard

To begin, cut a piece of baseboard the entire length of where it meets the wall. You can use a utility knife to cut any paint or caulk that has adhered to it. When you score this length where the two baseboards meet, you can prevent paper and paint from tearing from the drywall so that you won’t have a damaged surface. Use a metal putty knife 6 inches long to lightly work the area behind the baseboard so that you can start to loosen the material adhering the baseboard to the wall.

At the same time, you should pull in a forward motion to loosen the finishing nails and pins that are keeping the trim affixed to the wall. Pick one end of the baseboard to start on and delicately pry, going along the length of the trim until the piece is loose enough to come off the wall.

You’ll need to have patience when doing this step to avoid breaking the moldings, as releasing the baseboard will take some time to do. If you’re having difficulty placing the blade of the putty knife under the trim, try tapping the hammer’s handle gently so that the blade will sink in more.

Pull the Molding Free

At this point, you can try to pull the end of the trim loose away from the wall once the entire length is disconnected. Again, be careful so that you don’t accidentally damage another part of the wall, such as the adjoining wall or the door trim. In a kneeling position, slightly raise up and delicately and gently move the trim in a rocking motion to relax the trim on the part of the molding that’s tight between the corner baseboard next to it and the wall until the molding fully releases.

Label the Trim

Next, place a label or number on the lower part of the wall and the rear of the trim so that you can easily keep all the pieces in the correct order, mainly if you’ll be putting your boards back in their original places. Continue removing each piece the same way by going down the drywall and removing the adjoining pieces until all the parts you need have been removed. Take out the finishing nails from the trim you removed by using side cutter pliers.

Alternative Option: Pull Straight Outward

Another option when removing molding is to pull it straight and outward when you’re taking off the trim without taking out the nails first. Since nails have heads, you normally pull them out when you pull lumber out. However, trim works differently, as it’s attached with brads or finish nails. These brads or nails have small heads and are thin, so they don’t pull out as easily as nails attached to lumber. When you use any material, with the exception of medium density fiberboard, you can obtain traction on the trim by using a pry bar that’s thin and pulling the pry bar straight back to release the molding.

This effort will cause the trim to pull through the brads or nails and leave the fasteners still connected to the wall. The only potential issue is that some installers use construction or wood glue to make the trim stick, so if you find this arrangement is the case, the drywall paper will rip away with this method. Test a small section first to confirm.

Caulk is also placed on the tops of baseboards, outer parts of door and window trim, or sometimes on the back edge of the crown molding. Caulking is used so that gaps are covered to give a smoother appearance.

Tips to Stay Safe

If you need to use a larger tool to take out any trim that’s stubborn, such as a durable chisel or small crowbar, place a wide putty knife or broad knife between the wall and the trim to help you pry off the trim while protecting the surface of the drywall. You should always wear safety glasses when you’re doing a home renovation project such as this one so that your eyes will stay protected from any trim if it happens to snap into pieces.

You can easily remove floor moldings without breaking them when you follow this guide. Make sure you have the proper tools needed for this project before you begin to make your work easier. Visit your local hardware store to get any supplies you need and have them organized in the room you’ll be working in before you start.

While removing floor moldings is a relatively simple process, the main factor to keep in mind is that you need to have patience and know that the work may be slow going. Make sure that the moldings don’t break so that you can reinstall them after you’re done with your home project. Labeling the boards will allow you to more easily know which ones go back in what order when you’re replacing them. You’ll finish your project more quickly by using this technique.

Resources:

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/secret-design-weapons-floor-and-crown-moldings

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/this-weeks-wood-floor-mold-reducer-moldings

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remove-baseboards-damaging-drywall-29807.html

https://www.thespruce.com/remove-trim-or-molding-without-breaking-1822783

The post How to Safely Remove Floor Moldings Without Breakage appeared first on Learning Center.

Vinyl kitchen flooring adds a charming touch to a kitchen, but it can be confusing to install if you don’t know how. You don’t need to hire a professional to help you, as the installation process for vinyl is simple enough when you have the correct materials and understand the proper steps. Vinyl is an inexpensive material to use for kitchens compared to tile, and is more straightforward to manage.

Unlike tile, a vinyl floor may be directly applied to a subfloor that’s plywood with no need for a concrete backer. Before installing vinyl kitchen flooring, make sure the heads of screws and nails are below the subfloor surface, take off any adhesive that’s old, and address other imperfections. Otherwise, you’ll be able to feel and see these areas below your Vinyl Flooring and they could damage the vinyl.

Choose the Perfect Vinyl Kitchen Flooring

Vinyl flooring comes in 6-foot and 12-foot widths. You can save at least half the cost, if not more, when you install vinyl on your own. Flooring that’s more expensive has patterns that are richer and a wear layer that’s thicker, but even moderately priced flooring will still last for at least 10 years.

Look at the flexibility different floors have by going into a flooring showroom and bending one of the corners of a sample. If you find the vinyl is stiff or the backing easily breaks, you won’t be able to install the floor without being at risk of damaging it. You can also order samples of flooring to take home and see how various options look in your kitchen.

It doesn’t hurt to have a sketch of the room with you along with dimensions so that a flooring representative can help you figure out how much flooring you need. Determine the installation requirements and make sure you buy a trowel, seam sealer if your flooring installation requires a seam, floor filler, matching caulk, and the proper adhesive.

Installation of Sheet Vinyl Kitchen Flooring

Remove Appliances

To begin, take out the refrigerator in addition to any other furniture or appliances from the kitchen. Use a flat pry bar and a hammer when working on the baseboard backing. Carefully pull the trim away from the wall, taking care not to damage it as you go. Take kraft paper and roll it out 1 inch from the base of the wall, going along one of the kitchen’s edges.

Paper the Floor

Use a 4-inch piece of masking tape to tack the kraft paper to the floor by placing the tape along the edge every 3 feet. Use scissors to cut the paper along the edge of the floor and attach the paper 1 inch away from the wall’s edge. Roll out another piece of paper and have it overlap the first one by about 3 inches. Attach the first and second strips with tape, and keep attaching strips until your paper is covering the floor and all edges are 1 inch away from the wall.

Mark the Perimeter

Take a framing square and place it on the floor so that it’s flat with one side against the wall. Use the paper to mark the location of the other side of the leg with a pencil. Have this mark go around the floor’s perimeter and make pencil marks along the framing square’s width on the edge away from the floor. Roll the vinyl flooring out in a larger room or outdoors and make sure the top surface is facing up.

Use the Template

Take away the paper template, keeping it in one piece, and put it over the sheet vinyl. Hold the template in place by taping it to the floor. Place the framing square on the line found on the template in the identical way that you drew a line on your paper in the kitchen. Use the framing square’s outside edge as your guide and draw a cut line in your sheet vinyl flooring with a marker that’s washable. Use this template to work with until you finish the cut line.

Cut the Floor

Place a piece of thick cardboard or a portion of plywood below the flooring. Use a sharp utility knife to pierce the flooring that coordinates with the cut line. Continue to move your plywood as you cut to preserve the floor underneath. Take your cut piece of flooring, roll it up, and bring it into your kitchen. Without using any adhesive yet, roll out the flooring to determine how it fits. Now is the time to make any necessary adjustments so that you’ll have a snug fit. Use a utility knife to make any precision cuts as necessary.

Adhere to Subfloor

Next, you’ll peel back the sheet of flooring to expose half of the underside and the subfloor underneath. Place an even layer of adhesive onto the underside of the vinyl flooring by following the instructions of the manufacturer, and then place the adhesive over part of the exposed subfloor. Working with a notched trowel, you’ll mark the adhesive and press the flooring down to the subfloor. Make sure you use a floor roller over the full floor to get out any imperfections you find and allow the adhesive to stick to the flooring well.

Install Trim

Place any quarter-round trim or baseboards back where they belong along the bottom of the walls. If your kitchen doesn’t have any baseboards or other trim, you can put a thin bead of tile and tub caulk around the room’s perimeter between the walls and floor for a more finished look.

You’ll love the look of your vinyl kitchen flooring, and you’ll be proud that you installed it by yourself. The first step is to write down everything you need and purchase your supplies. Once you have all your supplies, you can begin the process of installing your vinyl. Once your kitchen is properly prepared, you’ll be able to start laying the flooring and see the results of the beautiful new floor you installed.

The post How to Install Vinyl Flooring in Your Kitchen appeared first on Learning Center.

Building a deck on a slope can be tricky, but you can easily do it when you know what steps to follow. The disadvantages to building a deck on a slope include the fact that the ground isn’t flat and you won’t be able to build a structure that’s level. You’ll also need to pay attention to the slope grade and ensure the deck is both secure and stable. While many decks aren’t built on slopes, sometimes you don’t have a choice if your house or building is already located on a slope.

You won’t be able to enjoy the slope by itself though, as grilling or sitting on chairs are nearly impossible. Adding to your property by building a deck can help you use that space effectively. Your family or customers will enjoy spending time in this new area. The steps below will show you how to properly and securely build a deck on a slope.

Dig Foundation Holes and Install Deck Posts

Head to the top of the slope and dig two holes in the foundation deep enough so that you can find solid soil, which may be down a foot or two, and 1 foot in diameter. The holes will help support a side of the deck. Next, place a deck post in the holes and measure the posts from the bottom to the deck’s height, accounting for one extra foot on the end of each post. That extra length will eventually be cut off once you determine the final height of the deck.

Fill the Holes With Concrete

Fill the holes with concrete and give them time to dry completely. You can find out whether the posts are level by using a water bubble level when the concrete starts to dry. Place a string on each post and have it extend to the spot where you want the opposite side of the deck to be. You can leave the strings on the posts for now and make a mark in the ground where the support posts will go.

Work on the Second Side of the Deck

You’ll want to dig two additional support holes for the other side of the deck at the lower part of the slope. Place two long deck post beams in the holes and measure them with a string to make sure they’re long enough to be able to support your deck. You’ll repeat the steps you took on the other side and fill the holes you made with concrete. Repeat the same procedure to make sure they’re level.

Tie the string on the new posts at the height you want the deck to be so that you’ll have a guide for your floor beams. Take a level and hold it up to the string to make sure it’s accurate and straight. Mark the posts where you want to secure the deck beams. Attach the posts and deck beams by using 3-inch bolts or nails, and look at the mark you made as the reference. Frame both sides by using beams that are an appropriate length based on whichever type of board you decide to use.

Attach the Floor Beams

Use 3-inch nails or metal braces to attach the floor beams to the deck beams. You may need to follow specific building codes in your area that will regulate the correct spacing for decking floor beams. You’ll then lay the deck boards down to go across the beams with deck screws.

Add a Railing

Many decks that aren’t at ground level will need a railing for safety. Building codes often list what the railing spacing, baluster width, and height need to be, so check with your local codes first. For an easy railing solution, you can buy a premade railing system available at many home improvement stores. It’s also easy enough to build it yourself by using a 2-by-2-foot or 2-by-4-foot piece of lumber to make a basic design.

A typical railing height is anywhere from 36 to 42 inches, so make sure your balusters are cut to the proper height. Next, cut the top rail pieces to measure about 2 feet by 4 feet. If the rail pieces are too long around your deck for one piece of 2-by-4-foot board to go across, you’ll have to segment the rail. A 2-by-2-foot picket will need to be installed for every seam in order to be able to support the bearing.

All the balusters will then get attached to the outside edge of the decking with lag screws. You should make sure you don’t have more than 9 inches of space between each baluster. Test the balusters by using a level to make sure they’re plumb as you continue. Next, attach the support posts and pickets to the top rail by using deck screws.

Add a Wood Finish

Finally, you’ll want to choose a paint or exterior wood stain to finish the deck. Find all rough areas and sand them before you begin coating them with stain or paint. Make sure you have enough time for each coat to fully dry before you apply another coat of paint or stain. Once the stain or paint is dry, apply polyurethane so that the finish will be protected even further.

Leave this finish on to dry and lightly sand the surface between each coat. If the area is big, think about renting professional sanding equipment for this project so that you’ll get the smooth surface you need to finish the job successfully.

When you follow the tips above, you’ll be able to install a deck on a slope without needing assistance. It’s essential to note the differences when building a deck on a flat surface and building a deck on an uneven surface, as posts and other materials will be different sizes. When you plan ahead with the proper steps and get the materials you need in advance, you’ll be able to complete this project efficiently.

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When you’re installing vinyl plank flooring, you want to make sure it’s done correctly the first time around. You don’t want to waste money or time having to redo it, and you don’t want any mistakes causing you to fix it years down the road. You may have heard that installing vinyl plank flooring was easy to do on your own, inexpensive, and simpler than dealing with porcelain tile or engineered wood. However, there are still some essential factors you need to know before you start.

Buy More Than You Think You Need

You want to buy just enough of plank vinyl flooring. Don’t buy more than you’ll need, as you’ll end up wasting money and supplies. However, if you buy too little of the material, you’ll delay the process, since you’ll have to wait to finish the job until you go back to the store. A good rule is to buy what you think you’ll need, plus one extra carton.

For example, if you have a small floor that is 115 square feet, and you’re looking at buying cartons that hold 20 square feet of flooring in each one, you’ll need six cartons, as this equals 120 square feet. You should then add an extra carton, so you have room in case of an error. However, don’t open it until you’re certain you need it, as most stores let you return unopened boxes and will give you a full refund.

Lay It Out

Make an estimate of how long it will take you to complete this project. If you’re doing a bathroom that’s 120 square feet, you can estimate about three hours to finish it. However, this doesn’t include how long it will take to remove the toilet and then reinstall it. You can then take the planks out of the box and lay the first row down, so it’s parallel to your wall that’s most visible. From there, work outward with laying out your planks.

There will be a wall that’s more visible than others in every room, such as the one that’s along the bathtub in the bathroom. In this situation, the wall that’s least visible would be where the counter and vanity stand, since it’s mostly covered up. In the bathroom, put the first row of planks parallel to the wall by the bathtub, and work outward to the wall where the vanity and counter stand. It’s normal for the last row to be uneven, since it’s unlikely your room is actually square. Baseboards will cover this up in this case.

For rooms that aren’t square or large, you’ll want to put the first row of planks in the center of the room, and then work your way out to either side of the walls. You’ll notice the unevenness the more you work your way across the room, and the last row will almost look like a pizza place. There’s no need to worry; you can put down a row in the middle to split the unevenness in half.

Take Out All Baseboards and Casings

You’ll need to remove all baseboards and remove the door casings as well. To make it easier to install the flooring, you should remove all the trim that’s touching the floor. To get your tile to fit better, cut the plank with a handsaw or a utility knife. Run the knife or saw across the plank’s face a few times instead of trying to cut deeper grooves in it.

The next step is flipping the board so the finish surface will be face down, similar to when cutting drywall. Fold the plank to see if it snaps when it comes backward. If not, run the knife through the fold gently to get it to separate.

Connect the Planks

Elm / 5.5mm / SPC / Click Lock SKU: 15265811

You’ll want to connect all your planks in your first row before you begin the second row. Depending on the brand of planks, it can be hard to connect the planks, and you’ll need to do the short sides before starting the long sides. It can be helpful to have someone assist you during the process. Vinyl plank has the advantage of being able to make cutouts for any protrusions quickly. Tin snips or shop scissors can easily assist with this.

However, this won’t work well if you need to use the groove or tongue to attach to another row of planks. This is because of scissors mangling the groove or tongue and making an uneven fit. You should also note that side cuts will only work if the protrusion is on the plank’s long side as opposed to the short side. To connect the planks, angle the row between 10 to 15 degrees and then tilt it downward. If there’s a protrusion on the door trim, the board’s movement will be impeded.

When you have vinyl plank that’s snap-together, you can also go in a backward direction to install it. Usually, flooring can only go in one direction when it’s being installed. If the grooves are found on the leading edge of the row, you can only connect the remaining planks into grooves. However, vinyl flooring lets you connect to either the groove or tongue side.

After you lay the floor, reattach the trim and baseboards the way they were before. You can use an electric brad nailer to make this easier. When you hammer the nails, stress is created on the trim and baseboards, which dislodges them before they can be attached securely. Hammers can also crack the trim.

Vinyl flooring is something you can easily and quickly install yourself or with the assistance of another person. Many people love how it looks and how affordable it is. Knowing what steps to do in what order will make the process even smoother. Just make sure to always have enough material, so you don’t have to stop the project halfway to go get more at the store. It’s simple to lay down the flooring and connect them for a new floor.

Resources:

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/vinyl-flooring-evolution-of-function-and-style/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/vinyl-flooring-how-its-getting-better-and-better/

The post How to Lay Vinyl Flooring Quickly and Efficiently appeared first on Learning Center.

Many people are drawn to carpet tiles for their easy installation and affordable price. However, an unexpected perk is how easily you can fix a carpet tile floor if things go wrong. Should you spill your red wine or your dog has an accident, there’s no need to tear up your entire carpet. Simply replace the damaged carpet tile with a new one and enjoy a floor that looks good as new.

Acclimate Your Carpet Tile

While you can’t use your new carpet tile until your old one is removed, you can take steps to prepare it. Carpet tiles need to become used to the conditions in the room they’ll lay. Sit them in their intended home for 24 hours to acclimate them.

Clear the Area

If you’re using the room with your carpet tiles, it’s probably full of furniture. While you don’t need to completely clear the room to replace and remove just one tile, you should clear the space you want to work in for easy access. As you may need to use harsh chemicals to clean the floor beneath your old carpet tile, it’s a good idea to move furniture well away from your old tile as any accidental splashes could damage your pieces. It’s better to be safe than sorry, so you may want to move any valuable furniture into another room.

Remove Your Old Carpet Tile

Before you lay down a new carpet tile, you must remove the old one. New carpet tiles will often lift up with very little effort, while older tiles tend to be more stubborn, especially if they’re stuck down with glue.

This job can take a toll on your knees, so buy some protective pads to cushion the impact. You can find a pair at a skate shop or sporting goods store if you don’t have any already. This process can also be tough on your hands, so it is recommended that you put on a pair of work gloves before you start.

Attempt to pull up your carpet tile by its corner. If the tile is stuck firm, push a metal scraper or a putty knife between the tile and the floor to free it.

Remove the Glue (If Applicable)

Old carpet tiles fixed with adhesive commonly leave glue behind. As a rule, the older the carpet tile, the more the adhesive sticks. Removing this glue before laying down new tiles is important, so you’re working with a totally smooth foundation.

New carpet tiles typically leave behind just a little clear, sticky glue. You should be able to remove this with a blend of trisodium phosphate and warm water. Consult the chemical’s packet for the right solution.

Older carpet tiles often leave behind a lot of hard, stubborn adhesive. It might take time, but you should be able to remove the bulk of the glue with a floor scraper. Point the blade away from you and scrape at an angle for the most effective, safest results. While this process requires a firm hand, don’t be too aggressive or you could damage the concrete and break your scraper.

If you do damage the concrete, don’t panic. It’s true that carpet tiles should sit on a perfectly flat surface. You can fix any gouges and cracks you’ve made with concrete patch though. Let the filler dry overnight; then scrape away the excess with a putty knife to flatten the floor again.

Sweep away any loose particles, and then dissolve any remaining glue with carpet tile adhesive remover.

Carpet tile adhesive remover is very powerful, so take care using it. Tape across your baseboards and nearby tiles to prevent chemical damage. Wear eye goggles, chemical-resistant gloves, and a face mask for your own safety. Opening the windows will improve the room’s ventilation. Apply the substance to a 12-inch square with a sponge or paintbrush; then let it sit to work its magic. Once the glue softens, use a paint scraper to remove it. Dispose of the scrapings and sweep any small particles up.

Clean the Floor

Since you’ve already prepared your floor to lay down carpet tiles the first time, all they should need before you can lay a new tile down is a thorough clean.

A blend of trisodium phosphate and warm water, mixed according to the manufacturer’s instructions, is a more effective floor cleaner than anything you’ll find in the grocery store. Use a stiff scrubbing brush to scrub the solution into the floor. Use a squeegee to remove the solution on top of the floor, then a wet-dry vacuum to remove the rest of the liquid.

Some of the chemicals will still linger, so dilute them with a sponge soaked with plain, warm water. Keep sponging away until you’ve wiped up all the chemicals.

Replace the Carpet Tile

Once your carpet tile has acclimated for 24 hours, it’s ready to lay. If you’re using a carpet tile left over from your initial installation, it’s probably already the right size. If it’s a tile bought especially to patch your floor, or if you trimmed your original tiles, you may need to cut your carpet tile to fit. Measure the available space and use a utility knife against a straight edge for a precise cut.

Take note of your carpet tile’s pile. You’ll want it to match the other tiles in the room so the color and pattern looks consistent, or if you’ve been daring in your design, intentionally random. Many carpet tiles have an arrow on their back showing the pile’s direction, which you can use to help you out.

Some carpet tiles are self-adhesive. If you have these, simply remove the backing paper and lay the tile in place. Most don’t have their own adhesive, so you’ll need to apply a layer of adhesive or lay down double-sided carpet tape to make your tile stick.

While replacing a carpet tile requires a little effort, it’s much simpler and more cost effective than replacing a complete carpeted floor. Go through the process step-by-step to say goodbye to your stained and damaged carpet tiles.

Resources:

https://www.lifehacker.com.au/2011/06/how-to-lay-carpet-tiles/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remove-glued-down-carpet-tiles-concrete-20942.html

The post How to Replace a Carpet Tile appeared first on Learning Center.

As beautiful as hardwood floors are, they require a significant amount of care both during and after installation. Wood reacts to changes in the environment, even if that environment is your home, and its sensitivity can lead to ugly grooves, hills, and valleys undulating across your living room floor. Homeowners with wood floors are frequently faced with buckling or peaking floorboards. Although the damage appears atrocious — and costly to fix — you can easily repair the issues yourself after becoming familiar with the common causes behind it.

The Root Causes of Buckling and Peaking On Hardwood Floors

Even if your flooring features the highest quality exotic hardwood flooring, it is going to buckle or peak if it’s poorly installed and not well-maintained. To fix peaked or buckled wood floors, it’s essential to understand what causes the wood to warp. Both problems are usually because of water damage. While that’s the most common cause, it’s not the only one. Still, it’s often the first place to look for the culprit, since both wood and laminate are sensitive to the relative humidity (RH) in your home. The idea RH level is zero, so when the moisture content causes it to rise above that, the wood lifts away from the subfloor. Leaks, general dampness, and prolonged exposure to water warp the hardwood as well.

Buckling

Some installers treat the terms as interchangeable, while others conflate the definitions. For the purposes of this guide, buckling occurs when the floorboards groove upward in a convex shape that’s the direct opposite of cupping, an issue that bows the wood in a concave shape. Other reasons for buckling include failure to acclimate the flooring before installing it. Giving the boards time to acclimate lets them get accustomed to the RH level in the room. Failure to install a moisture barrier is another cause.

Peaking

Peaking describes more dramatic grooves in the hardwood. The grooves rise higher, and the peaked areas involve more than one floorboard. Water damage is usually the reason for buckled floors, but mistakes during installation are frequently the cause behind peaks. Wood floors need to breathe. The humidity levels in your home naturally change with season, temperature, and weather. The correct way to install hardwood is to leave small gaps between the floorboards and around the room where the wood meets the wall. The gaps give the boards room to expand when it’s humid and to contract when it’s dry.

Without room to expand, the swelling floorboards heave upward, creating walking hazards and unsightly hills. The boards may splinter as well, particularly around the walls. Any restrictions that inhibit floating floors from actually floating pose the same problem. It’s impossible to overemphasize how important it is to leave wood floors the space they need to contract and to expand.

Uncover the Cause of Peaking and Buckling in Your Floor

Before attempting to fix your much admired maple hardwood floor, it’s necessary to discover what’s causing your problem. You know the main culprits, so sniffing out the cause won’t take long. Moisture or water damage is the most likely issue, especially regarding quick changes. It doesn’t take much water exposure to buckle unprotected boards. At that point, your biggest problem involves figuring out what’s behind your moisture problem.

Peaking due to tension is distinctly different. While humidity and moisture content lead to peaking, the damage done is messier and wider spread in that it tends to affect groups of boards. Since there’s nowhere for the boards to expand, they often splinter along the edges of the room. Those signs let you know the flooring doesn’t have any personal space, so to speak.

How to Fix Peaking and Buckling

1. Remove the Molding First

Several methods fix grooved floorboards, but it’s smart to try the easiest one first. Unless the water damage is visibly located in another spot, get down on the floor and carefully take off the molding from the wall. Be careful not to crack the wood or scratch the paint. You shouldn’t need anything other than a hammer and a screwdriver, though you might feel more comfortable using a thin chisel you can wedge between the molding and the wall.

2. Change Out the Spacers

During the installation process for wood flooring, spacers separate the floorboards closest to the walls from the walls themselves. If the spacers are too large, they could impede the wood’s ability to swell safely in damp or humid weather. When you purchase replacements, get them in numerous sizes, all smaller than what’s there now. Try the next smallest spacers; then push the peaks. If the pressure doesn’t cause them to flatten out, move on to the next smallest spacer and try again.

3. Replace Damaged Boards

Some buckles, grooves, and peaks are too warped or water damaged to flatten them. Replacing them doesn’t mean you have to tear up the entire floor, however. You can just remove the peaked boards and install a new section of flooring in their place. Match the hue by purchasing hardwood that’s already stained, or stain and seal it afterward.

Don’t make the same mistake twice. As you place the unblemished boards, leave tiny gaps between them. The correct spacing isn’t large; you shouldn’t see glimpses of the subfloor beneath. Each floorboard merely needs room to expand without repeating the same problem.

4. Return the Molding to Its Place

Whichever way you choose to remedy the warped floorboards, once the grooves are gone, and the floor is smooth again, carefully reinstall the pieces of molding. You’ll probably need to hammer it back into its proper place. Remove any nails that remain in the wood and reinstall it using new finishing nails. Take care not to splinter the molding as you return it to its proper place.

Hardwood adds value to the home and creates an elegant, warm atmosphere in any room you install it. It’s essential you maintain it properly, whether that involves humidity and temperature control, protecting the floorboards, or repairing them as soon as you see signs of peaking or buckling. If you acquire the help of a professional to install new flooring, then double-check that there are spaces between the boards and no obstructions beneath it that will interfere with the wood’s ability to expand and to contract.

Whether it is your kitchen or living room floors, buckled and peaked floorboards just aren’t the best way to enjoy your pricey hardwood floor. Besides the obvious effect on appearance, such a floor is a safely risk. Now that you know what causes these issues, you should be able to avoid them. It also helps that you now know how to replace the affected floorboards.

The post How to Fix Peaking or Buckling Hardwood Floors appeared first on Learning Center.

Hardwood flooring adds an elegant touch to any home, whether you lay the floor yourself or have original, antique flooring. However, damaged areas of hardwood flooring can not only wreck the aesthetic of the room, but they can also throw your OCD into high gear. Fortunately, replacing damaged areas of hardwood flooring isn’t as difficult as you might think. Novice DIYers get ready: It’s time to channel your inner Bob Vila and restore the luster and beauty to your hardwood floor.

Removing or Changing a Few Planks

Jasper Hardwood – European Brushed Oak Collection / SKU: 10096546

If you’ve noticed a few planks have some damage, but the rest of the floor is in relatively good shape, replacing everything is a waste of time and money. It’s quick and easy just to remove the disfigured plank without damaging the rest of the flooring, especially if they use the tongue-and-groove design found in most modern hardwood flooring. Tongue-and-groove flooring enables the wood to fit together snugly while also controlling vertical movement. The best part is that when a tongue-and-groove plank succumbs to water, scratches, or splits, it’s simple to remove.

Before getting down to business, decide which planks are ready for removal. Look for cracks, splits, and other imperfections in the wood. If a plank has a small chip or scratch, don’t automatically mark it for demolition. Oftentimes, you can use a stain pen, a wood flooring repair kit, or a combination of mineral spirits and sanding to repair or to hide the scratch. If the board or boards are beyond repair, it’s worth it to remove all of them at the same time.

Start the removal process by marking which boards are coming out. Once you’ve decided which ones are ready to go, you have two options. If you don’t have a circular saw, start by marking a perpendicular line midway down the board. Use either a half-inch or three-eighths-inch drill bit to drill into the board, but make sure you don’t get down into the subflooring. After you’ve made the hole, use a chisel to split the board in two for easy removal. If you have a circular saw, cut down each side of the board to remove the tongue(s).

Now that the board is separate from the rest of the flooring, you should be able to pry it out without a ton of effort. Use a nail puller or the backside of a claw hammer to remove any extraneous nails from the subfloor. From there, replace the new piece of wood. If it doesn’t fit, you may have to cut off the tongue or shave one side with a saw. Cut small areas if possible to ensure you don’t the board too thin.

Before putting the board or boards in place, put construction or wood glue on one side of the board to help it stay in place. Then, use a nail gun or a hammer to nail the board into place. Be careful not to dent the wood if using a hammer.

Fixing Water-Damaged Hardwood Flooring

Water damage is one of the leading causes of hardwood flooring replacement in newer floors because it affects the wood quickly. By the time you notice there’s a problem, it’s almost always too late. While the polyurethane coating on the flooring keeps out minor water spills from your kids or a dropped beer, a leaking refrigerator and a dishwasher can wreak havoc on the wood in a short time.

The most telltale sign your flooring has water damage is cupping. Cupping occurs when the wood absorbs an excessive amount of water, which causes the wood to swell. Once the wood swells, it expands and pushes the boards together, causing them to become damaged at the edges. It’s relatively easy to spot, and if it’s in the kitchen, the bathroom, or the laundry room, water damage is the typical culprit. If no water is present, cupping is usually the result of poor or improper installation, which could mean you have to replace the entire floor.

Rarely do you pray for water damage, but when it’s between that and an entire floor replacement, water damage is the lesser of two evils. The first step to repairing water-damaged flooring is to find the source of the leak. Without finding the source, you’ll end up repairing the same spot repeatedly.

After determining the water source, it’s time to repair. If the water damage is somewhat light, you can often get away with sanding the floor down about a quarter-inch and staining them to match the rest of your flooring. When the damage is more severe, the fix becomes much more labor intensive.

Start by removing the affected planks as mentioned previously. However, you’ll want to inspect the subfloor for moisture. If necessary, replace this portion as well, and if there’s concrete underneath that’s harboring moisture, allow it to air-dry before replacing the subfloor and hardwood. Once you’ve removed these portions of the floor, put a new piece of subfloor in place and place a moisture barrier on top. Put in new planks just like you did before.

Once you have the new planks in, a staining might make the floor look brand new. However, if you’re worried about uniformity or the water damage is widespread, refinishing the wood flooring across the entire room is your best bet.

Preserving Your Hardwood Flooring

Although a damaged floor is sometimes unavoidable, prevention reduces the occurrence drastically. Preserving your hardwood flooring is also easier than it might seem. Clean your floors regularly to remove grime and moisture, put down area rugs and mats in front of doors to reduce scuffs and scratches, and implement a no-shoes policy in the house to make sure your wood flooring maintains its look and structural integrity.

By following these tips, replacing your hardwood flooring becomes second nature, no matter what the cause of the problem. From water damage to cupping to buckling and everything in between, you’re now an expert on a job you thought was over your head. Now it’s just like new under your feet.

Resources:

https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/repair-scratch-dent-hardwood-floors/

https://www.builddirect.com/blog/5-ways-to-preserve-your-hardwood-flooring/

The post How to Replace Damaged Areas of Hardwood Flooring appeared first on Learning Center.